Personal rituals

[ajohnsen]

Over the many years that I've been surfing, I've developed a few little rituals that I have to perform before paddling out because, if I don't do them, I'll have a crap session, or that's the perception, and perception is reality. I try to discard them as soon as I notice them developing, but two have stuck like sh1t to a blanket. And they are...

- My leggie strap has to be around a specific way
- I have to scrub my hands with sand.

The second one has a logical foundation. After putting sun block on, I'm paranoid about slippery hands, so I use sand to ungrease them.

I use to have to be able to mentally surf a wave well to ensure a good session. So, standing watching the surf, I'd imagine paddling, getting to my feet and then working the wall or whatever the wave was suited for. It was kinda interesting. Some days I just couldn't get my mind to pull certain manoeuvres off and the result would be the same in the water. I don't know how I would've surfed if I hadn't done the virtual surfing before the real thing, maybe just as bad.

These days I try to keep a neutral mind, because one thing I've learnt over the years is that the mind can sure get in your way. When I think back to some kookified patches I've gone through, it's invariably been my mind that's been responsible.

What rituals do you have to perform before paddling out?

[Grooter]

Drop the kids off by the pool before driving off

Otherwise it's aqua bog time

[Topher]

I have to run at least some of the way down to the water, even if it's only for a few metres. I have no mojo if I walk all the way down the beach.

[dUg]

At one particular local left hand reef, I chuck two fist-sized rocks into the water through the paddle out. It has a sandy bottom, and Mr Stingy likes to bury himself there. I have stepped on his wing a couple of times and he's a big bugger. He's lived there for years so these days I just give him some warning... it's only manners.

[Squidlips]

I always eat a couple of bananas on the drive down,
I always take doggy for a walk along the beach before a sesh as it gives me time to suss the conditions.
I always tip my board upside down in the water prior to paddling out (cool the wax) and wash off any dirt (as the deck of the board especially the nose needs to be clean - weird!!)
When approaching the line up for the first time I always paddle extra extra hard and deep, to show Im a powerful surfer (so move over!)
I always triangulate my position relative to landmarks as soon as I sit up.

[ajohnsen]

Oh yeah, if I don't catch my first wave within ten minutes, I'll surf crap.

[purple pyramids]

great idea. after hearing the ungodly screams of someone stung by a ray, i've become a little parnaoid about them down south.
throwing a few rocks is easier than trying to paddle out from the beach without getting your feet wet.

At one particular local left hand reef, I chuck two fist-sized rocks into the water through the paddle out. It has a sandy bottom, and Mr Stingy likes to bury himself there. I have stepped on his wing a couple of times and he's a big bugger. He's lived there for years so these days I just give him some warning... it's only manners.

[sandfly]

Always wear my "lucky" speedos or I will surf crap.

Trouble is they are starting to breakdown and fall apart, what will I do??

[Trev]

I always get out of my street clothes.
And take my board out of the car.
If I don't my jeans restrict me on take-off, especially if there's no board undeneath me.

[bumfluff]

I always get out of my street clothes.
And take my board out of the car.
If I don't my jeans restrict me on take-off, especially if there's no board undeneath me.

Thats the funniest thing ive ever heard you say T-Rev.

[bumfluff]

Always wash both sides of my board when I enter the water. Even if it's not dirty.

First thing I do when im out the back is take a closer look at who's out there and if they know somthing I didnt pick up from the beach.

Find the my spot, then find a landmark.

Before every wave, I adjust my legrope to make sure its around the right way. Ive got one of those f*cked up leg ropes that only has a swivel on the board end. Been meaning to change it. Too many times it gets tangled up.

I will always try and catch a wave in no matter how flat it is. Paddling in is just not on, even if it means im now running late.

[Yuke Hunt]

Pre-surf ritual ... wake up scratch nuts and ask the trouble and strife if a head job would be out of the question ... after receiving the usual (read always the same) disappointing answer ... acid tongue cold shoulder defence ... admit defeat ... get up and have a slash ... scratch nuts ... partake in a cup of freshly brewed black coffee followed closely by the early morning turd disposal expedition ... wash hands ... scratch nuts ... head to the beach ... don appropriate surfing apparel ... scratch nuts ... walk to the waters edge ... place board fins down (in the water) ... place stomach on the deck of the surf craft ... make sure that the fins are facing downwards and to the rear ... paddle away from beach ... never towards the road ... head towards the take-off zone ... sit on surfboard ... scratch nuts and wait.

[Squidlips]

wake up scratch nuts ... scratch nuts ... scratch nuts ... scratch nuts ... scratch nuts and wait.

its a frucking crab farm down there

paddle away from beach ... never towards the road

[Grooter]

[bumfluff]

Reminds me of a time when I was about 15 my mate had crabs but was too scared to go into the chemist to ask for some crab cream so I said I'd go in and get it for $10

Turns out I was in there for a while and old mate came in to see what the f*cken hold up was. Mid conversation, he butts in and says to the pharmacist in a very concerned voice "are you sure that sh*ts gonna work?" to which the pharmacist replied "yes, your partner will be cured if he uses this product"....

[crabmeat thompson]

I throw talcum powder into the air and do the haka

[pridmore]

always put my left foot, left arm in wetty or boardies first..do it with everything not just before surfing, it started a long time ago when I played rugby league, always the left foot boot first...it might have grown a bit but I just do it now without thinking much about it....ffs, i got issues...haha . laugh you might but try it and you'll soon see why I do it, everything is better this way , really it is...

[turtle]

i have been using moisturiser on my feet for well over 10yrs. my belief is i get more feeling from my board if botttom of my feet are soft.