Damage wrote: Nick Carroll wrote:
Forgettable, ha, yeah right. I'll be dead before I forget watching BL do that.
See Matt, sprung; you're full of it.
damage, damage, damage... you're only showing your true [mis]intentions by misquoting. hence, you're full of it. go back to trolling the web for misguided blogs.
Nick Carroll wrote:
Wanna see some real trickery? Go look in the dustbin of clips for most modern surf dvds. You'll see more wipeouts and dud turns than you'd believe possible. For every golden moment there's 20 flounders.
being in Tonga at the same time as some billabong pros was eye-opening in this regard.
most of the younger guys would surf the whole wave, Margo would basically surf it once, pick the section he wanted to hit, then spend the rest of the session jamming along to there with speed and obliterating it until he got the perfect shot.
maybe because he was (is?) on a freesurf contract, but it was interesting to see the totally professional approach. he was the same at ping-pong.
ace buchan could do both, surf the wave and get the shot, and never
fell while i was watching.
i recall one day at avoca pines...
solid waves, but the banks just weren't doing it. straight handers everywhere. regulars, boardriders, tourists, everyone out there - frustrated.
there was only one smidgen of a left, 0.9 seconds of wall before closing out. take off sideways to give yourself the best chance, quick mid-face turn, quick turn under the lip. shutdown.
ace comes out & manages 3 backhand reos on EVERY wave, without falling off once. he got 4 times more length out of those rides than anyone else on the day. no ifs, no buts, [no ship]
no argument. not even from his mates in the boardriders.
i sit in awe & appreciate talents i will never have.
ditto for sess out at whaley in early '90's where martin potter did the quickest turns & more of them than i have ever seen.
no argument that the pros have the talent, NC, some just stick in my mind longer for more positive reasons.