Has surfing lost it's soul?

[mustkillmulloway]

4. Mother Nature B: Animals. Do you have several animals and appear to have an almost mystical bond with them even if some of them are chickens.

5. Stance. Are you a goofyfoot, and if not, do you secretly long to be a goofyfoot.

If you answered "yes" to four or more of the above questions, you are a fcukwit.

i answred yes these two...do i win anything

and leave my chickens out it

p.s hello dino..... u dirty wizard

[lessormore]

[. u dirty wizard

or homeless Santa!

[steve shearer]

Why'd you do it Dino?

You had your Final Solution to the RS problem.

Even that little dalliance back in the music section wasn't noticed.......nothing but clear air around you and you put your snout back in this mouldy old trough.


Why?

[Quangers]

Surfing is a selfish pursuit, playtime for the privileged middle class white boys or the very few uber privileged colored chaps. It is devoid of soul. Surfing never had soul and never will. It is a lot of fun ? Fuck yeah. If you think surfing puts you on some higher plane spiritually than any other wealthy first world baby that snow skis or plays rugby or mountain climbs or motorbikes or any other frivolous pursuit? Your a fucking dipshit and you need to go and live on the island of mirrors with trevg, wooly, mical, hatchman and a couple of million other self **** and spend the rest of your days looking at yourself and feel warm in the glow of the holy creation that is you.

Surfing? Soul?

Give me a fucking break. What a bunch **** fucking piss eating wankers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Loy55z4GpA

Thank Fcuk someone has taken the p out of this dribble...
Anyone ever rented that old Beta movie "Soulman"?
Makes ya think...

“You don't have a soul. You are a Soul. You have a body.”
C.S. Lewis

[mical]

Soul Man

soul-man-c-thomas-howell.jpg (20.71 KiB) Viewed 4269 times

[mustkillmulloway]

I'm weak.

I'm a loser

and a dirty wizard

[lessormore]

I'm weak.

I'm a loser

and a dirty wizard
and homeless Santa

[Buff_Brad]

Why'd you do it Dino?

You had your Final Solution to the RS problem.

Even that little dalliance back in the music section wasn't noticed.......nothing but clear air around you and you put your snout back in this mouldy old trough.


Why?

I'm weak.

I'm a loser

You not that much of a loser pal.

Knew you'd be back.........too much work to do around here "aye".

Psueds will return soon too.

On topic ....... surfing is as soulful the individual wants it to be.

It's all in our heads.

Good to have you back Dino........( I shed a tear)

[steve shearer]

, playtime for the privileged middle class white boys or
......... plays rugby

Har, har. Too true.
In 1995 I recorded a few interviews on a sony walkman on the North Shore.

I think I got one of the few recorded interview with Owl.
I'm hanging on to it till he dies.....it's my career back-up plan for when bus-drivers are replaced by robots.

It was just me and Owl and Bird hanging out in Owls dingy bed-sit behind Sunset Beach, smoking blunts and listening to Robert Johnson or some other Mississipi blues man.
Bird don't surf......no visible means of income, too mellow and spaced out to be selling drugs.Acid casualty. Ex Viet Vet......most likely on welfare.
A giant stringbean of a man with a permanent stoop and a giant hooked nose that made him look like a Bald Eagle.
In todays more just world Bird would be on a retainer from Dane Reynolds or some other hipster as their go-to homeless Bum.

"Hey Dane... we need some atmosphere in this shot"
"well what the fcuk do you think we're paying Bird for....get that bitch here now!"


I turned the tape recorder on and Owl picked it up and spoke into it.....I could only hear this dull drawl....
but this is what he said......word for word.
Swear to god.

"A probe.......A probe into outer space.
Earth to Outer Space......we will go where no man has been and we will ride like no other"

Rugby....hahahhahahhaa.

he continued.....
"there's nothing like surfing......no skiing, no mountain climbing.
Nothin.
Nothing beats a cool blue wave......it's so sensual, so close to Nature.
It's a better me"

The interview continued.........then Owl sprung up suddenly from the threadbare armchair and in the warm Hawaiian afternoon announced "there's a 20 foot swell ...lets go surf the Bay"
Unfortunately for me, there was a 20 foot swell at the Bay.
I said I had no board and Owl pulled a triple-stringered 11 footer out of the roof racks. One that had been snapped three times and weighed 40 pounds.
fcuk Owl I haven't got any boardies I said scrabbling for excuses

He pulled out an ancient pair of short legged scoops that had no velcro.

We loaded up his shittbox old Honda and went to the Bay.
Went we got there I realised I had no leggie and I approached Owl about this dilemma......."leash.......Leash!...
what the fcuk you need a leash for Shep.....you gunna fall off out there.......hahahahha.....you don't wanna fall. No need to fall
off"

Being ripped off your tits paddling out in 20 foot Hawaiian surf has a certain kind of mental ambience....at best a dreamy surrealism and potent sensualism. It can easily veer into a sort of breathless blind fear.
Todd Chesser caught a 20 footer from behind the boil and I saw that wave from close quarters....it scared the shitt outta me.

I sat on the shoulder and until Owl paddled back out "whaddya doin Shep?"
"You got the board.....go gettum"

I shoulder hopped an inbetweener and then went deep on a mid-sized one and caught air on the drop and made it. Proned out to the corner of the bay.
On the beach a Japanese camera crew with expensive looking kit came up and said "we take your photo"
Hahhaa....nah...not me
They musta thought with the Brewer I was some kind of big wave rider ......
But I lined up for the photo and when the camera was clicking I remembered I didn't have any velcro and my little willie was out sunning itself in the warm arvo sun.
Ah well , no chance of them harpooning it and serving it up to Japanese school kiddies....it was just a little haole willie....easy enough to photoshop out.
Then Charlie Walker came out and I said.....Theres your man.

Still got a headie that night though.

Um....now where was I shipmates .
Yeah :Rugby.

[bombora]

http://celebrifi.com/gossip/Lorraine-Ni ... 78470.html


Lorraine Nicholson was spotted in an adorable Bikini as she films scenes for Soul Surfer in Oahu, Hawaii.

The 19-year-old daughter of Jack Nicholson is playing Bethany Hamilton’s best friend Alana Blanchard, who was with Hamilton on the day a tiger shark took off her left arm off at her local beach in Kauai.

The film follows how Bethany (played by AnnaSophia Robb ) was attack but persevered and went on to win international surfing competitions.

I'm sure the screenwriter(s) would appreciate this thread........................

[Nick Carroll]

OK let's add that to the list. 11. Mother Nature E: Mutilation. Have you been attacked by a shark and survived.

[Surfin Turf]

didn't mumbles used to coach Bethany Hamilton ... or maybe still does ... I'm sure I heard that from someone at some point ...

[otway1949]

Fcuk! I'll take it up ... having done the Course.

1. Sex. ie Do you use your status as a surfer to pick up wide eyed hippie chicks for evenings of patchouli-scented intercourse, only to move on next day because "the waves are calling"

2. Mother Nature A: Health foods. Do you, however vaguely, tread down or toward a Macrobiotic pathway in the foodstuffs department as a result of your wanting to live closer to Mother Nature.

3. Hand made. Do you ride your own hand made surfboards as a result of your wanting to engage in the totality of the surfing experience.

4. Mother Nature B: Animals. Do you have several animals and appear to have an almost mystical bond with them even if some of them are chickens.

5. Stance. Are you a goofyfoot, and if not, do you secretly long to be a goofyfoot.

6. Parents. Do they send you money occasionally. When they die will you inherit a sum of money or possessions equal to or more than one million dollars.

7. Parenthood. Are you secretly terrified of having children, despite the fact that you may well have one or more of 'em without knowing it.

8. Mother Nature C: The Ocean. Do people ever comment on your apparently magical fluidity of movement through the water, almost as if you are a fish of some kind.

9. Art. Do you do any art. Include playing a musical instrument.

10. Mother Nature D: Gaia. Do you believe in any practical sense that the Earth is one organism.

If you answered "yes" to four or more of the above questions, you are a fcukwit.

Let's be frank here and answer the 10 + one re shark attack.

1.Yes. Had a lovely time in Nimbin and Byron during the psychedelic mind wars of the late sixties as opposed to the mindfuncking wars of Vietnam. Was a member of the orange people (some called it a sex cult) during the eighties, yeeha

2.Sometimes but not to the level of being Macroneurotic, (BTW to digress an eskimo eating only seal whale and fish is following the definition of a macrobiotic diet and if traditional will offer you his wife to warm your bed, but she won't smell like patchouli )

3. Yes. Hand made several boards and put paisley fabric under the glass went ok, IMO experienced shapers better never did it again.

4.Yes. Had my own horse for 25years and have dogs and an axolotl, my chickens got killed by red belly black snakes foxes and wedgetailed eagles, I have carnivorous plants

5.Yes, Goofy footed all the way through :? And a Ranga to boot

6.Yes, All my parents and parents in law are dead,between their efforts and my wife and I we can retire

7. A NO finally, kids don't terrify me at least mine don't, yours probably do! I fear for all kids re cars drugs alcohol etc.. ( A little history here, first marriage first son, a cot death at two months, second and happy marriage youngest step son burns his brains out on drugs and booze and commits suicide at 19. Middle son still recovering from following the same path their genetic father went the same way, eldest son abstains from booze and drugs and is happily surfing secret spots in Austria)

8.Maybe, they are just amazed that I'm alive and sane .The mystical fluidity is the gift the surf gives me that keeps me sane.

9. Yes, I paint, I write, I write and illustrate children's books and fantasy books. I have been published but I had to wear pink slips a few times

10. No. did Geology at Uni so no, my take is simply that we need to keep our lives elegantly simple and not use more through greed.

11 or 10+. No but I know several people who have.

In summary; if you live a full life plenty happens both good and bad, i welcome your opinions about this and then you can get Nicked

[steve shearer]

thanks Ots....
you took the bullet that was meant for me.

BTW I did get attacked by a shark.
In the Marshall Islands.....in front of a cemetery.

I think I'm an eleven out of ten on Nicks fcukwit scale.

[Nick Carroll]

Fcuk! I'll take it up ... having done the Course.

1. Sex. ie Do you use your status as a surfer to pick up wide eyed hippie chicks for evenings of patchouli-scented intercourse, only to move on next day because "the waves are calling"

2. Mother Nature A: Health foods. Do you, however vaguely, tread down or toward a Macrobiotic pathway in the foodstuffs department as a result of your wanting to live closer to Mother Nature.

3. Hand made. Do you ride your own hand made surfboards as a result of your wanting to engage in the totality of the surfing experience.

4. Mother Nature B: Animals. Do you have several animals and appear to have an almost mystical bond with them even if some of them are chickens.

5. Stance. Are you a goofyfoot, and if not, do you secretly long to be a goofyfoot.

6. Parents. Do they send you money occasionally. When they die will you inherit a sum of money or possessions equal to or more than one million dollars.

7. Parenthood. Are you secretly terrified of having children, despite the fact that you may well have one or more of 'em without knowing it.

8. Mother Nature C: The Ocean. Do people ever comment on your apparently magical fluidity of movement through the water, almost as if you are a fish of some kind.

9. Art. Do you do any art. Include playing a musical instrument.

10. Mother Nature D: Gaia. Do you believe in any practical sense that the Earth is one organism.

If you answered "yes" to four or more of the above questions, you are a fcukwit.

OK I'll bloody do it myself

1. Yes I have done this but my God, it was a very long time ago.

2. No.

3. No. Like you otway1949, I learned the error of my ways in this dept.

4. Yes I have several animals, no I have no mystical connection with the fcuken things. The connection is called "food". They ask for it and I give it to them.

5. Fcuk, no.

6. A couple of times this has happened (the being given money bit), bot no (the gonna inherit a million bucks bit)

7. Too late for that. They are already at large. I am secretly terrified that they will die before me.

8. Not in my fcuken hearing, they don't.

9. Ha!

10. No.

11. Bethany is still coached by Mumbles!

[Nick Carroll]

I think I'm an eleven out of ten on Nicks fcukwit scale.

well at least you aren't peely.

[steve shearer]

well, thanks Nick.
I'll seeya at Snapper.....hope Quik are good friends with McConnel-Dowell.

Bring that MC edge board up with you if you remember.

[Buff_Brad]

thanks Ots....
you took the bullet that was meant for me.

BTW I did get attacked by a shark.
In the Marshall Islands.....in front of a cemetery.

I think I'm an eleven out of ten on Nicks fcukwit scale.

Have you been to the Marshalls Steve?.......I went once....back in 2006.

Saw heaps of sharks.....and after dark fishing ....... forget it.....any silver being pulled up ended up bitten in two.

Great waves. Really soulful on the Indies Trader 4 (or was it 5? )