Its a shocker: not even a custom, its an old 1980's windsurf board that I got from a garage sale for $20, as I thought it looked a fun shape and it had stupid amounts of volume.
It’s a 7'6" rounded pintail, has a lightly scalloped bottom (4 channels from tail to tip) has the generic thruster shape, dead hard rails for 2/3rds, small straight raked single fin and its a Kevlar - epoxy construction, so its light, and it gets every wave due to it being almost 7 inches thick in the middle!!
everyone’s thinking 'what the f*** is this guy on' when I paddle out, but after I’ve racked up about 15 waves from right out the back, pulled a few cutties and hacked lips and landed the thing, I’m starting to notice a weird kind of kudos happening.
I’m getting the best of the best set waves, im pulling some kick ass moves, and im managing to rip on this piece of sh!t. I’m getting the odd hoot from the channel, and from this group of kids on the beach.
I was surfing the shorey and pulled into a full on, stand up barrel on the thing. The wave face went tight, two palms planted on the face, buried rail, perfect line, the lip threw over my back, and made it due to being lucky with my line.
It’s a different kind of surfing for sure, but its awesome fun.
