Attention all

[Enjoy]

As part of my final year of studies I have to do an issue analysis on a certain culture. Being a surfer my self I thought the easiest choice would be to do the surf culture and how it has changed from the old school barge surfers to the modern day shortboarders. They way I compare the 2 generations is by conducting an interview/survey. I have already done a series of interviews with the new age surfers but now knowing any surfers who have been surfing for 30+ years I'm in a bit of a pickle.

My teacher suggested that the next time I go surfing I interview people who are also out surfing......... I am sure that would go down well, silly teacher.

Age: Years surfing:

1. How long have you been surfing?



2. How has surfing changed since you were young?



3. When surfing first arose it was seen as rebellious, were you part of the rebellious movement?



4. What type of board do you surf?



5. What was your worst surfing injury? Where and how did it happen?



6. What’s your opinion on angry local surfers?



7. Are you a competitive surfer or surf for the joy of it?



8. What’s your definition on the surf term “kook”?



9. Best wave ever surfed and where?



10. In an incident of a shark attack should the shark be killed or let be?

I this is my first post and I am kind of asking of you all. But being a long time reader you all seem like a friendly bunch.

P.S. Anyone can fill this out but I am aiming for 25+ - 30+ years of surfing.

Cheeeers guys EXTREMELY appreciated.

Josh, Australia

[Trev]

As part of my final year of studies I have to do an issue analysis on a certain culture. Being a surfer my self I thought the easiest choice would be to do the surf culture and how it has changed from the old school barge Not a good way to get us oldies on side surfers to the modern day shortboarders. They way I compare the 2 generations is by conducting an interview/survey. I have already done a series of interviews with the new age surfers but now knowing any surfers who have been surfing for 30+ years You need to go back 45 years to get people who were there when it all started in Oz (ie pre the shortboard revolutionI'm in a bit of a pickle. I fit the bill so I'll answer your questions but some of them aren't really relevant to an old school surfer either

My teacher suggested that the next time I go surfing I interview people who are also out surfing......... I am sure that would go down well, silly teacher.

Age: 61 Years surfing: 33

1. How long have you been surfing?
since 1962 - 1970 then 1984 to 2009

2. How has surfing changed since you were young?
more commercial, more high pressure in the surf, more crowded. Leg ropes, and wetsuits are probably the 2 best innovations

3. When surfing first arose it was seen as rebellious, were you part of the rebellious movement?
It was seen as rebellious by older people who, coming out of the war years were still somewhat staid in their outlook - maybe a throwback to the armed forces regimen. Surfers in general didn't see themselves as rebellious except perhaps against the life saving movement (also very old school). In the same era bikies were becoming a big thing as were music fans - also seen as rebellious by older people. The 60's were a decade of radical change so all sorts of activities were seen as rebellious

4. What type of board do you surf?
Longboard

5. What was your worst surfing injury? Where and how did it happen?

normally only cuts and bruises from the board or rocks but 2 feet full of sea urchin spines at Norah Head in 1967 necessitated 3 hours in Gosford Hospital and morphine (Ah - morfino!)

6. What’s your opinion on angry local surfers?
Ignore them. Follow the rules and enjoy your surf. Most of them can be won over if you work at it

7. Are you a competitive surfer or surf for the joy of it?

I have surfed competitively but prefer to just enjoy the sessions

8. What’s your definition on the surf term “kook”?
No idea

9. Best wave ever surfed and where?
Not sure if you mean best "individual" wave or best "type" of wave. Bit hard to remember an individual wave over 30 or so years. I prefer point breaks as they are generally longer waves, more consistent. I can't remember an individual wave but I do remember some special sessions. Crescent Head on the 1967 trip mentioned above. Easter Monday at The Bower a few years ago - 2 sessions at Moffats in the last 12 months


10. In an incident of a shark attack should the shark be killed or let be?
Should only be killed by the person it attacked

I this is my first post and I am kind of asking of you all. But being a long time reader you all seem like a friendly bunch.

P.S. Anyone can fill this out but I am aiming for 25+ - 30+ years of surfing.

Cheeeers guys EXTREMELY appreciated.

Josh, Australia

[Surfin Turf]

check this http://forum.realsurf.com/forum/viewtop ... =7&t=15667 for some stats on OF'sTSS ...

it has changed from the old school barge surfers to the modern day shortboarders.

it changed back ... the biggest change is that everything old and weird is new again ...

[puurri]

Oi !!!

I never stopped being weird.

[roy Stewart]

" Modern Day" is so last century.

.

[Enjoy]

Thanks for taking the time to fill out out Trev. Sorry though didn't mean to offend anyone by using barge insted of Malibu, Redwood type board. The teacher wanted a single set of questions which would be asked to both the old school surfers and the new age surfers, and when the results are compared it would be obvious of changes between the 2 generations. For instance I have had a few of my mates who have been surfing for 5-10 years who have different definitions of the term kook and that sharks should be slaughtered if they attack etc.

When me and my mate went for a surf trip from Adelaide to Torquay we met some guys who were talking about how they get some pretty agro locals, but if you just follow surfers etiquette should be alright. /tangent

I will mention to my Social Studies teacher though that 2 seperate sets of questions which relate too each generation would best, as it would give a more accurate depiction of each generation.

[Nick Carroll]

Age: 49
Years surfing: 37 (non stop)

1. How long have you been surfing?

Fcuk, I just told you.


2. How has surfing changed since you were young?

It's way broader, a lot of different kinds of people surfing these days compared with the narrow focus 15-22 year old male crowds of the mid70s. The best surfers are way better now and the range of waves being ridden has massively expanded. Culturally the sport is driven much more from the mass of people who've learned to surf over the past 10-15 years, not all of whom are high performance oriented, thus there's a wide range of equipment, media, and surfing "images" with which surfers clothe themselves. literally and otherwise. Surfing is global now, it's done in many countries where it was unknown when I began.


3. When surfing first arose it was seen as rebellious, were you part of the rebellious movement?

No it wasn't. When surfing first arose, as far as anyone knows, it was in Polynesia or Melanesia about 1200 years ago. It was first practiced in Australia around the beginning of the 20th century when it was regarded as a bit of an oddity -- by then people had been bodysurfing for a decade or so and hadn't seen the potential for surfboards. Surfing as rebellion didn't really surface until the 1960s, when the baby boom generation took advantage of lightweight boards and the easy availability of cars to declare themselves free of their parents, SLSCs etc. By the time I started surfing that first rebellious period was already a memory, but the idea of doing something that grown-ups slightly frowned upon or didn't understand was a definite turn-on for me, though I didn't fully understand it at the time.

4. What type of board do you surf?

Heaps of the fcuken things. Mostly 5'11" to 6'1" high performance thrusters

5. What was your worst surfing injury? Where and how did it happen?

Broke my leg and ankle in numerous places and suffered a full syndesmosis rupture in the process while surfing in Hawaii two years ago, required surgical fixation and four months out of the water. Had numerous ligament tears, cuts and lacerations, etc etc, probably about 150 stitches all up.

6. What’s your opinion on angry local surfers?

They don't know what they're doing.


7. Are you a competitive surfer or surf for the joy of it?

I'm very competitive at heart but I don't really like mixing it with surfing, I like to surf to my potential in challenging conditions, that definitely gives me joy.

8. What’s your definition on the surf term “kook”?

A kook to me is someone who surfs without understanding what he or she is doing. In this regard I am a kook at times, as are most surfers I suspect.

9. Best wave ever surfed and where?

Too many to really select one.

10. In an incident of a shark attack should the shark be killed or let be?

In the incidence of a shark attack the patient should be secured and brought to the beach as soon as possible, 000 should be called, bleeding should be treated via elevation and direct pressure on the wounds, the patient should be treated for shock, and the shark shouldn't be included in any of this activity.

[Surfin Turf]

^^^^^^^^

1. I am approaching 43 and have been surfing for approaching 33 years ...

as Nick Carroll is the master of all surfing knowledge I will only respond on a few points and where I don't respond you can assume I agree with him ... (btw ... before any accusations fly , that is not an arse crawling attempt , it's simply me knowing when I have or have not got something meaningful to add ... )


5. Torn knee cartlidge from bending knee 90 degrees in the wrong direction 20 years ago, broken hand from landing on shallow reef 5 years ago, broken nose from board hitting face really f'cking hard 22 years ago, numerous cuts and gouges etc, etc ...


7. for the joy, but did surf competitively in school boys and till 22 years

10. additionally to NC's comments .... lessormore and coops should be called to immediately wrap the offending shark in cotton wool, make it a hot chocolate and play soothing easy listening music to it so it doesn't get upset ...

[lessormore]

^^^^^^^^


10. additionally to NC's comments .... lessormore and coops should be called to immediately wrap the offending shark in cotton wool, make it a hot chocolate and play soothing easy listening music to it so it doesn't get upset ...

That would be cruel to the shark-cotton wool may become waterlogged and if digested by the shark may block the passage of its food(human flesh) from reaching it's stomach-hot chocolate may give it indigestion-leaving it unable to digest its natural dietary supplement(human flesh)-soothing music may send out electrical pulses(similar to the Shark Shield)leaving it unable to track its prey(humans) and by not getting upset it won't be able to create a feeding frenzy (on human flesh) with a group of its mates !

You Sadist!

[wanto]

Age: 28

1. How long have you been surfing?
12 standing, 6 lidding

2. How has surfing changed since you were young?
i think my perception of surfing has changed more than anything else so it's tough to answer, although there's an obvious boom of incompetency out there. there are also more people in the water in general, but especially at some of the heavier reef waves up and down the coast.

3. When surfing first arose it was seen as rebellious, were you part of the rebellious movement?
surfing had started long before i'd started surfing. as a teenager, anything i would have done might have seemed rebellious to me at the time as most semi-adult ventures were pretty new to me. surfing was no exception, but also not exceptional.

4. What type of board do you surf?
high performance short boards.

5. What was your worst surfing injury? Where and how did it happen?
a recurring medial ligament tear in my knee - first happened at a south coast bombie but re-occurred at the beachy at home, and most seriously on a jumping castle.

6. What’s your opinion on angry local surfers?
depending on where, when, why and how angry somewhere between totally necessary and a complete joke. there are some real geese out there, but on the whole localism is fair and par for the course.

7. Are you a competitive surfer or surf for the joy of it?
never competed.

8. What’s your definition on the surf term “kook”?
someone who thinks they are better than they are, or unknowingly impedes others due to their inexperience.

9. Best wave ever surfed and where?
a couple of places on the east coast have come close from time to time, but definitely rifles in indonesia.

10. In an incident of a shark attack should the shark be killed or let be?
if the guy attacked manages to kill the shark in self defence while thrashing around half hanging out of the shark's mouth, i guess it's ok.

[Surfin Turf]

You Sadist!

not entirely ... I did leave out ' a session with Dr Phil' ...

6 lidding ...

now I get why you don't like to be seen in public ...

[kreepykrawly]

Age: Years surfing:

1. How long have you been surfing?
F-ckin ages



2. How has surfing changed since you were young?
Smoking pot was encouraged before sesh’s



3. When surfing first arose it was seen as rebellious, were you part of the rebellious movement?
I used to hand out with gang bangers that stole and sold drugs to maintain our lifestyle



4. What type of board do you surf?
Hybrid home made c-ck up



5. What was your worst surfing injury? Where and how did it happen?
Circumcised on lakey peak reef after heavy wipeout



6. What’s your opinion on angry local surfers?
Love em



7. Are you a competitive surfer or surf for the joy of it?
Neither, I Surf to vent my anger



8. What’s your definition on the surf term “kook”?
Mummy’s boy with a bad haircut



9. Best wave ever surfed and where?
Collaroy



10. In an incident of a shark attack should the shark be killed or let be?
Shoot them all. They don’t belong in our ocean

[wanto]

What made you take up lidding after 12 years standing?

other way round obviously.

[Enjoy]

Nick Carrol, Surfin Turf, Wanto, Kreepy Krawly..... thanks a tonne aye, some awesome responses! Exspecially from you Kreepy
In some time and place i'll be sure to buy you all a round'o'beers, or whatever tickles your fancy. Within the lines of not being hundereds of dollars.

Enjoy could you please ask your teacher if you can do an assignment on shit bands and musicians and the tortures they should endure before dying. Or maybe something on salacious gossip of the sexual nature regarding commercial television celebrities. Ive got heaps of material in that area.

hey man we're only a 1/3 of the way through the coarse. If the oppotunity arrises I'll see what I can do. If not ill knock together a few questions

Question 1: Dinosaur, whats your opinion on shit bands and what tortures should they endure before dying?

Seriously though... you fellas are legends

[marcus]

Thats why they have sharp teeth, they are not vegetarians.

haha

[dUg]

Age: 42 Years surfing: 25

1. How long have you been surfing?

forty two minus seventeen... umm... gimme a sec... ( counts ) that's... ummm... ( counts again ) nup...sorry... it's gone...

2. How has surfing changed since you were young?

People who were once laughed out of the water due to lack of talent, etiquette, or good looks, now fill most lineups.

3. When surfing first arose it was seen as rebellious, were you part of the rebellious movement?

Yeah! I was a BMX kid! Well heck... it seemed pretty unwholesome at the time...

4. What type of board do you surf?

Board(s) 5'6 - 6'2 high perf. shortboards, twinnies, fish, and my 8'2 when it's small or really gutless and I have had enough of wavepigs on 9' tankers hogging everything

5. What was your worst surfing injury? Where and how did it happen?

Dislocated left elbow joint, outgoing tide, reo onto dry reef.

6. What’s your opinion on angry local surfers?

I love 'em because while they are all calling people in to the carpark for re-education I can stay out and get more waves.

7. Are you a competitive surfer or surf for the joy of it?

Joy. I am competitve by nature but I have never surfed in competition. I can't take that kind of rejection.

8. What’s your definition on the surf term “kook”?

Anyone who has chosen ignorance over wisdom in the surf

9. Best wave ever surfed and where?

Hmmm. Hard one. Will go for the nostalgic one this time - my first ever barrel at Pondalowie Bay. Had plenty of goodies since but I don't think you ever forget that first one.

10. In an incident of a shark attack should the shark be killed or let be?

Which shark? It's not as if they go on facebook and brag about it afterwards . Nah, seriously... I'd say let it be... BUT... if I saw my kid get mauled by one perhaps I would have a different opinion.

[otway1949]

1. How long have you been surfing? How old are you ?
60 and been surfing 50 years, Started at Dee Why way back.

2. How has surfing changed since you were young?
Better surfing. better boards of all types, More crowds. You used to know everyone who surfed at your beach and the beaches nearby and who were the gun surfers anywhere! not now

3. When surfing first arose it was seen as rebellious, were you part of the rebellious movement?
The newspapers of the time generated the surfer rocker brawls, I sat in a Pine tree at DY and watched the fight go down. other than that it was take a walk on the mild side, some rebels same as now, most people just wanted to surf

4. What type of board do you surf?
Thruster shortboards, mal, a mat for photography .

5. What was your worst surfing injury? Where and how did it happen?
torn medial ligaments in right knee, At middle beach south coast went for reentry knee collapsed doing next bottom turn

6. What’s your opinion on angry local surfers?
ego filled fools , you can be assertive about how your surf goes down, but anger would spoil any surf.
laugh at them and yourself.


7. Are you a competitive surfer or surf for the joy of it?
Joy and i love our surfing, I do compete in mal comps but spend more time on the joy side of the force.


8. What’s your definition on the surf term “kook”?
People who take themselves seriously and overestimate their "talent" ability, or place in the crew at a surf spot. Any one taking on more than they can handle in a surf.


9. Best wave ever surfed and where?
One day at Ulus outside corner after spending 3 weeks in Indo and being fine tuned for it, barrelled off nut full stand up arm spread barrel people paddling over shakaing the old man in the barrel.
Counter story; last trip just off plane, not tuned, took on big Ulus again humbled by break missed the cave washed half way to Padang cliff climbed and had to do the road walk back to the Warung, I fitted definition number 8

10. In an incident of a shark attack should the shark be killed or let be?
let it be unless it starts to make attacking a nasty habit.