RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Got a few....turned into a nice afternoon. That inside section was packing a whollap for how big it was. I'll have water coming out of my nose all afternoon.

BA wrote:Narrabeen. Head high peaks although a bit slow. Plenty of straight ones, so plenty of beatings, but the odd one held up and reeled off. Snapper sized crowd at one bank opposite the Sands. Storm seems to have helped the banks.

The sand shifting has made a big difference. There was even a left/right peak out the front of the Collaroy surf club. It was great to get a few without going crazy trying to slug it out at the point.

jimmy wrote:I surfed a bank that was surprisingly in shape after the "swell event". 2 foot runners that went for 50mtrs.

banks up your end?

I didn't surf because ice mocha.

ice mocha a lot of weed.

Its been 2 weeks since the last fatality, so I thought I'd go for a surf. Checked the web site for sharks and there was a 3m shark cruising about 40m offshore yesterday so I'll give it a miss. Two more weeks and I'll be back in Bali.

By my rough calculations, surfers have a 1 in 10,000 chance of being killed by a shark if they surf regularly (5+ hours/week) around Perth over a 10 year period.

Too short

...

I know the mind games well.

I surfed every day the swell of the decade(warranted) and got the ride of my life, or at least one of them, which was interesting being on the wrong side of 40. I did have a strategy though, based on personal experience, and observations of the natural world.

First principle: To ride the wave of your life you have to catch it. Ergo equipment and training to that end. That comes down to long periods of patience, positioning and hunting and 5 seconds of intense, max exertion. You need a heavy board with volume but more importantly the muscle power to accelerate it quickly to wave catching speed. Forget endurance training unless you're training for the Molokai or a race. You need strength, power to weight. Chin ups for paddling, push-ups for popping up.
Second principle: You're either hunting or being hunted. The difference in psychology is total. Predators don't rush around wasting energy, hence the uselessness of endurance training. They glide, they stalk, they wait, they circle, they ambush. Everything apart from that moment of paddling in should be restful, deliberate, conserving energy. Concentrating on being in the perfect spot and then striking. Wearing them on the head should be relaxing, unless you're drowning. That was the hardest thing for me after a very near drowning at the Point in 2011: regaining the psychological equilibrium to stay calm when caught inside, to smile inside and relax. You can learn breathing and mindfulness techniques to slow the heart and enjoy the show.
Third principle: Leave the ego in the car. Unless you're a pro, or ex pro literally no-one gives a flying fcuk about your surf, whether you get the ride of your life or don;t, make it out back or get nothing. No point wasting a single moment of mental energy worrying about what anyone thinks. It's just a beautiful moment if you get out back and get in the slot. It's simply terrific to be amongst the energy and maybe ride one or two. It's purely personal. The dinner still needs to be cooked, the dishes washed, the kids picked up from school. Life does not, nor will not change one iota. There is a satisfaction of arresting the slide towards mortality(momentarily) and finding a peak unmediated moment, a moment of being fully alive, in amongst the calvacade of routine and habitual thought that characterises the life of modern consumer man.

Nice.
But unadulterated bullshit Steve.
Don't pretend it's not the most important thing in the world to be able to hold your head up high amongst the point regulars the next day.
And more power to ya for stepping up and pulling your weight.

it's fun at the time, the camaraderie and the bullshitting in the carpark but no-one really gives a fig.
it's just a nice story to be a part of.

Some nice nice waves amongst the straight ones this morning Hatchy...beautiful

Drailed wrote:Some nice nice waves amongst the straight ones this morning Hatchy...beautiful

Yep. I saw that as I was dropping the little 'un off to school. Dawn raid tomozzz fo shizznit.

Shit banks at DY......still

Only those with no hands nor feet can really ride a surfboard

Nice Steve....I agree comletely

How unbelievable was the Taj/JJ heat?

And Taj gracious in defeat was nice to see

Went for a quick afternoon paddle. Well worth it for the headspace man.

Clean fast peelers from chest to head high. Got one from the cube to the corner that was a top to bottom sprinter. And another that had more of a sloping shoulder on it, that allowed for a few turns off top. Surfed the little duess twin fin. Goes like the clappers in fast small waves. Best small wave board I've ever owned.