RealSurf Surfers' Forum

PeepeelaPew wrote: ↑

Wed Mar 20, 2024 11:24 am

Leave him alone Legion, he’s got a gammy leg and a dicky ticker

Man, uncrowded glassy 3ft a frames this morning. Holy shit that was fun. Air temp was a bit cool so thought I would try on my new 2mm short arm steamer, holy fuck balls was roasting. Thats some buttery rip curl rubber.

Yeh, found a sneaky high tide bank.
One guy out.
He came in just before I paddled out.
Got 30-40 minutes before the tide dropped a bit and wind puffed up.

My most frustrating wave in the area!
Spent so much time trying to find that left.

Can be tricky to be in the spot.
Sometimes it’s really consistent though and you conveyor belt back out again and again (not today).
It’s a little awkward to surf on the backhand I find.
But I got a few and also some good rights that forced me into a couple of runarounds.

Woke up pretty stiff and sore for some reason. Maybe the surf a couple of days ago. Went down for a bash and wasn’t sure how I would go but managed one really nice left and a couple of other okay ones before calling it a day.

The first wave here is the wave I saw Kelly get.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksIfusO_DgA

The roundhouse to finish was better than any turn he’s done on tour this year.

Thats the main thing I remember.
It looked insane in real life.

Steve, unless the footage is deceiving where is everyone - looks really uncrowded?

I thought the same.

Saw some other footage of Slater at Kirra and looks fccckn dreamy! On his own out there.

You get little bits of sections that start working and if you’re onto it you can score.

Most of the crowd would have been on the cooly - spot x bank until word got out.

Man I been getting some wonderful sessions lately, feel so blessed.

There’s an article about it on Swellnet I think. I remember scoring Kirra one time with just my mate that I’d driven in with from Kingy. We were checking out Goodtime while this storm hit and walked out to the groin to look afterwards. Wind had swung offshore and nobody out.

Wasn’t that uncrowded. Just a lot of water moving around and people spread out.
Lots of wash throughs.

Article said he was out there with five others for a while before everyone cottoned on…….it happens. Obviously later or a different session is Steve says otherwise.