RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Cranked wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 17, 2021 4:44 pm

I think there were a 6'6, 7' and 7'6. They were all really thin and narrow with too much rocker for me. The 7'6 was about 40l I think, that's Nick's territory.

Not the 7'6". I actually found it a bit too floaty. I think you were right about the rocker though. It tended to push water when you were paddling. Had another look at it when I pulled it out to sell it. It never hit the spot for me. I thought about getting a 7' one for a while but went off getting a few other dogs instead.
Sold another board the same size about the same time. I had it for about 25 years. Local Knowledge. That worked really well at that length. Sold for $100. I think it cost me about $150 new.

buddy wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 17, 2021 7:34 pm

The pass.
Crowded, but not that many kooks out made it a bit harder to get waves.
Got a few gems though.

Love to get a good session at The Pass in. Man I've had some great surfs there over the years. Second last one was a hoot on a big fat fish.

I think I'm falling in love with the Margaret River coastline. It's so pure and undeveloped along the foreshore.

Unlike other places on the coast (including most of the NSW coast) it seems to be getting better not worse. Bali is frightening for it's coastal atrocities, it's a pig sty.

My mate has 12 acres just near Gracetown, he bought it in about 1990, built a small house in the middle of the block, and has let the native species grow for over 30 years. He has his own forrest now, we sit outside on his verandah and sip tea under the trees, a thousand miles from anywhere.

...

Lege I won't be within cooee of Margaret River anytime within weeks of either!

No point in being there on weekends either.

...

good old days are right now.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 18, 2021 6:01 am

good old days are right now.

Exactly.

Good new days, fellas.
"What is today but yesterday's tomorrow?"

It was pushy and a bit edgy out at t'point this morning for the early. So many fish, birds swooping, me by myself trying to catch a few low tide chunks. Anywhere from 2 to the odd 5 footer coming through, very lumpy and hard to read.

Got a cuppla but

Cranked wrote: ↑

Wed Feb 17, 2021 12:19 pm

I'm thinking of buying a semi-gun for around here as there's usually chop on the faces and McCoys don't really handle it well. It's no problem in Bali where it glassy or a few little ripples over 90% of the time.

It would only be for up to double overhead, some local shapers seem to have this sort of board wired: 8', vee or rolled vee all the way, maybe a little concave in the vee.

Local shaper does these for old guys hitting up double overhead

Not wishing to reopen the can of worms but I always found that the PU McCoys that I had were great in chop. I always put it down to them being so damn heavy but maybe the other design elements help too. In contrast the 6’6 Surftech that I had would chatter and flap horrendously

It's probably because the design is so essentially unresponsive, it just sits there and the chop hits it to no avail.

The Surftech materials are good at faking responsiveness so the poor thing was forced to twitch and bounce around like a horse with batteries in the saddle. But it was still basically a dead horse.

Anyway! Hectic fun on a couple of drainy banks this arvo in this weird, quivery swell. I think we could do with a coast buster right now and Sydney might just be about to get one.

Banks were actually good a week or two ago but it needs something to tidy it up. Bronte is woeful even by Bronte standards and Tama is odd.

...

another go out in onshore 4ft surf. blue warm water.

I paddled out and thought I might tag a couple wide sets but when I got there a bait ball half the size of a football field was waiting for me, so I decided against it.
it was hard to ride.

nice workout though.

Hard no to another bank buster .

Looks like the last few days of S and SE swells have been trying to fix up the bank too.