Where did you surf today ?

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Mon Sep 28, 2020 9:10 pm

There’s always the sneaking it into the garage trick
Erase.

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Legion
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Legion » Mon Sep 28, 2020 9:47 pm

Got busted doing that a few weeks ago.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Tue Sep 29, 2020 7:57 am

mario wrote:
Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:58 pm
After being on call all weekend I finished at 4.30 and hightailed it to the farm . Only took my eps 5'7 after seeing home barely breaking so seemed like a good move . It was a very solid , 4 foot plus with a high frequency of clean ups coming through , heavy south swell . A lot of water moving out there but managed to get quite a few fun waves . I`m liking eps more and more so I`ll order one next year - I don`t think I`ll get another past the missus this year .
Reckon eps for that type of swell and up? Genuine question not having a dig.
marauding mullet wrote:
Sun Nov 22, 2020 9:57 pm

….this was pushing off the wall not diving in.

...running out of breath underwater hasn’t been an issue. Not too bad for a 62 y/o who surfs irregularly.

mario
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by mario » Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:35 am

Thud wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 7:57 am
mario wrote:
Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:58 pm
After being on call all weekend I finished at 4.30 and hightailed it to the farm . Only took my eps 5'7 after seeing home barely breaking so seemed like a good move . It was a very solid , 4 foot plus with a high frequency of clean ups coming through , heavy south swell . A lot of water moving out there but managed to get quite a few fun waves . I`m liking eps more and more so I`ll order one next year - I don`t think I`ll get another past the missus this year .
Reckon eps for that type of swell and up? Genuine question not having a dig.
Well thats the interesting question isn`t it ? I`m old about to turn fifty , so have always been a staunch PU guy . Hell , I didn`t even run a fin system until my shaper said try these ( fcs1 ) . First power hack I blew the side fin completely out . But I digress , I bought a tropical brasil eps about a year or two ago and for the life of me I could not get it to go on my forehand , backhand it was amazing . Numerous fin changes did nothing . So back to pu I went and then this chilli came at the right price for me to try so i thought why not . I have this model churro in a 6" pu so I expected it to go the same . I`ve been reading about eps for a little while now , taking into account everyones comments about wind and chatter and instability when theres a lot of water moving around but to be honest I`ve not experienced any of this . Quite the opposite in fact . For a good surfer they will glide through the water and if you`re in tune with your equipment you`ll feel the pop every time you hit the lip or when you carve you`ll feel the spring . On your backhand you`ll feel so much more I reckon . The only thing I`ve noticed so far and that was early on was when the wave was losing momentum the board was not responsive ? for want of better terminology ( maybe like when you get a crease type of feeling ) . But playing around with fins will sort this out .

Its funny , the board didn`t feel " little " when I paddled out although when I was running down the hill I was questioning my choice , you know when you get those days where you think did I paddle out on the wrong board types of days . So my way of thinking is if you stick with a "name " brand for eps then it just makes sense to try it .It actually seems to give you more confidence on the wave . I want to ride this board at a certain place here but so far the sands not cooperating fully .

How many others ride eps and whats your experience been like with them so far ?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:56 am

I've been riding them for decades (and PUs) and I thought their stiffer and faster flex was an advantage.

The Surfboard Agency does epoxy with a stringer for those who want a foot in each camp.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:59 am

Thanks Mario appreciate that.

I’ve got one (Nitro HyFi), trying to dial it in. It’s that “momentum” things you write about. I like drive in my boards so sort of coming to grips with the HyFi. Hardly surfed it back hand so interesting to see that
marauding mullet wrote:
Sun Nov 22, 2020 9:57 pm

….this was pushing off the wall not diving in.

...running out of breath underwater hasn’t been an issue. Not too bad for a 62 y/o who surfs irregularly.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:02 am

Cranked wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:56 am
I've been riding them for decades (and PUs) and I thought their stiffer and faster flex was an advantage.

The Surfboard Agency does epoxy with a stringer for those who want a foot in each camp.
Cranked, I never knew you were an eps guy. How longs this been going on?
marauding mullet wrote:
Sun Nov 22, 2020 9:57 pm

….this was pushing off the wall not diving in.

...running out of breath underwater hasn’t been an issue. Not too bad for a 62 y/o who surfs irregularly.

mario
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by mario » Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:14 am

Thud wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:59 am
Thanks Mario appreciate that.

I’ve got one (Nitro HyFi), trying to dial it in. It’s that “momentum” things you write about. I like drive in my boards so sort of coming to grips with the HyFi. Hardly surfed it back hand so interesting to see that
Nice , what fins / system are you running ? Looks like apart from double concave its low flat rocker is similar to the churro .

mario
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by mario » Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:23 am

Went for the early . Swell has jumped since last night . Farm was maxed out so went and joined a small crowd at mystics . Was a bit hit and miss but managed to get a few . Always forget how hard that place punches .

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:39 am

mario wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:14 am
Thud wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:59 am
Thanks Mario appreciate that.

I’ve got one (Nitro HyFi), trying to dial it in. It’s that “momentum” things you write about. I like drive in my boards so sort of coming to grips with the HyFi. Hardly surfed it back hand so interesting to see that
Nice , what fins / system are you running ? Looks like apart from double concave its low flat rocker is similar to the churro .
Flat rocker front and back.

AM2 fronts, Reactor quad rears. Loving the Reactors on other boards (CI Fred etc...)
marauding mullet wrote:
Sun Nov 22, 2020 9:57 pm

….this was pushing off the wall not diving in.

...running out of breath underwater hasn’t been an issue. Not too bad for a 62 y/o who surfs irregularly.

mario
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Posts: 68
Joined: Wed Aug 12, 2009 10:37 pm
Location: Warilla NSW

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by mario » Tue Sep 29, 2020 12:13 pm

The Mighty Sunbird wrote:
Mon Sep 28, 2020 9:10 pm
There’s always the sneaking it into the garage trick
Yeah , can`t do that . Her : did you spend 1000 today ? Me : Ummm , no what are you talking about ? Her : what did you buy now ? It had better not be another board ! How many do you need and how many bikes do you have to have , its not like you ride them all ...... See where I`m going ? Sometimes it`d be nice to be single , but then you wouldn`t have conversations like these . Unless you had a Wilson ?

mario
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by mario » Tue Sep 29, 2020 12:17 pm

Thud wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:39 am
mario wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:14 am
Thud wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:59 am
Thanks Mario appreciate that.

I’ve got one (Nitro HyFi), trying to dial it in. It’s that “momentum” things you write about. I like drive in my boards so sort of coming to grips with the HyFi. Hardly surfed it back hand so interesting to see that
Nice , what fins / system are you running ? Looks like apart from double concave its low flat rocker is similar to the churro .
Flat rocker front and back.

AM2 fronts, Reactor quad rears. Loving the Reactors on other boards (CI Fred etc...)
Ah , quad man . If you know someone with the H4 ask to try them . You`ll be blown away on that board with them .

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Tue Sep 29, 2020 1:57 pm

Ok, thanks for the tip. Yeh quads 80% of time.
marauding mullet wrote:
Sun Nov 22, 2020 9:57 pm

….this was pushing off the wall not diving in.

...running out of breath underwater hasn’t been an issue. Not too bad for a 62 y/o who surfs irregularly.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Sep 29, 2020 2:47 pm

Thud wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:02 am
Cranked wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:56 am
I've been riding them for decades (and PUs) and I thought their stiffer and faster flex was an advantage.

The Surfboard Agency does epoxy with a stringer for those who want a foot in each camp.
Cranked, I never knew you were an eps guy. How longs this been going on?
Since about 1993 for windsurfers (Windsurfers changed 100% to epoxy in about 2 years) then surfboards when Surftech first introduced them in the late 90's, 2000?

Even before then I was asking the epoxy windsurf board builders who also shaped surfboards to do me one but they wanted $1000+ when a surfboard was about $350.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

mario
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by mario » Tue Sep 29, 2020 3:41 pm

Cranked wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 2:47 pm
Thud wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 11:02 am
Cranked wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 10:56 am
I've been riding them for decades (and PUs) and I thought their stiffer and faster flex was an advantage.

The Surfboard Agency does epoxy with a stringer for those who want a foot in each camp.
Cranked, I never knew you were an eps guy. How longs this been going on?
Since about 1993 for windsurfers (Windsurfers changed 100% to epoxy in about 2 years) then surfboards when Surftech first introduced them in the late 90's, 2000?

Even before then I was asking the epoxy windsurf board builders who also shaped surfboards to do me one but they wanted $1000+ when a surfboard was about $350.
So Cranked , do you have a preference of what to ride in certain conditions and why ?

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Tue Sep 29, 2020 4:25 pm

I feel like my super early sessions are between pulses on this swell. Every arvo it seems to be twice the size of the morning.
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

mario
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by mario » Tue Sep 29, 2020 4:46 pm

Wyre wrote:
Tue Sep 29, 2020 4:25 pm
I feel like my super early sessions are between pulses on this swell. Every arvo it seems to be twice the size of the morning.
Where did you go ?

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Tue Sep 29, 2020 7:12 pm

Ah that's the thing, was at the point which needs more east. super south direction doesn't hit the northern 'warra as much.
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

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