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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 12:21 pm
by Over55yrs
Well smaller where I was but still fun NE swell plus offshore wind.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 2:05 pm
by channels
Cranked wrote:
Tue Sep 22, 2020 10:30 am
Anyone up for surfing the bombie? What I hate is its nearly a k out to sea and right at the SE extreme of Ulus so when you come off there's a good chance you're going to get 20+ plus waves on the head as you get swept in the river of water moving down around the point and on to padang

https://www.facebook.com/surfersof/vide ... 711903545/
The guy at 1.30 so smooth through the whole thing and then cops a bunch on the head at the end for his troubles.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 2:18 pm
by Cranked
There's a dedicated crew who surf it and its never crowded as the takeoff area is about 100m. The usual exit spot is just before/after the outside peak, its rare to go on into outside corner.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 2:28 pm
by steve shearer
some of your pals Cranked?

looks like a good time to me.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 5:51 pm
by Cranked
Yeah, I know quite a few of them, you'd slip right in. Most of them live for it, and surf temples and secrets when the bommie's not on.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 6:12 pm
by Drailed
That first wave would look so much better with me on it

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 6:22 pm
by Thud
Couple of fun ones today. Screwed a few up mind you.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 8:34 pm
by channels
Cranked wrote:
Tue Sep 22, 2020 2:18 pm
There's a dedicated crew who surf it and its never crowded as the takeoff area is about 100m. The usual exit spot is just before/after the outside peak, its rare to go on into outside corner.
This guy paying to play

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFazaobn6Lh ... xzzopx2d2x

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 9:04 pm
by Cranked
Trying to hyperventilate in the few seconds on the surface between waves. The power of those 20s period waves is incredible, the white water just rolls on and on, 10' high for half a K.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 9:18 pm
by Beanpole
No such problems on the tiny close outs at Bondi this arvo,

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 5:26 pm
by Cranked
Kelly at Keramas:

https://www.facebook.com/surfersof/vide ... 3770278215

Good to watch for his style as it includes all the not-so-good stuff?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 6:49 pm
by Nick Carroll
fucken get ready if you live sth of Port Mc

you're gonna see a rare swell on Weds.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 7:03 pm
by steve shearer
even rarer will by spots to handle it, at least north of the cenny coast.


I dunno, those swell below the south island/polar edge aren't that rare, it's just forecasting has become better at ID'ing them.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 9:38 pm
by Beanpole
Cranked wrote:
Fri Sep 25, 2020 5:26 pm
Kelly at Keramas:

https://www.facebook.com/surfersof/vide ... 3770278215

Good to watch for his style as it includes all the not-so-good stuff?
Gee, he has been blowing a lot of waves over there. That Keramas session was about the only one he was on top. Padang he was getting owned half the time. Heaps of wipe outs. Same at Ulus.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2020 1:32 pm
by Thud
That’s age. Can’t fight it. Warmed my heart.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2020 6:32 am
by Nick Carroll
lol

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 3:15 pm
by Thud
Fitness tested a little today with a few million duck dives and few paddle backs that gave no quarter. ‘Bout 4ft, straight sometimes but there were corners. Not that many out to be frank. Got a little sunburnt

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2020 7:58 pm
by mario
After being on call all weekend I finished at 4.30 and hightailed it to the farm . Only took my eps 5'7 after seeing home barely breaking so seemed like a good move . It was a very solid , 4 foot plus with a high frequency of clean ups coming through , heavy south swell . A lot of water moving out there but managed to get quite a few fun waves . I`m liking eps more and more so I`ll order one next year - I don`t think I`ll get another past the missus this year .