RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Took the mal out and snared a few big burgers from way out. Funny banks at the moment. Same at Tama.

I got a few OK sort of waves. Is this divine retribution for all the good surf I had on the bukit?

Had the best surf for a long time at a avoca today. In front of the trees the break had 3/4ft deeper water peaks. Some ran and stood up for a few juicy turns (so I thought. Lol) Nice day.

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 02, 2020 3:57 pm

Three sessions today, assorted gong beachies including a secluded rock/sand bottom cove in Wyre’s backyard

You cheeky bastard! Not even a ping on the covid safe app. I was at the north end of main beach. How was it? Looks pretty rocky at the moment!

It was fun. Had a couple of peaks to chose from. Uncontested. And yes, quite a number of rocks inshore. Gotta watch your last turns

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 02, 2020 3:57 pm

Three sessions today, assorted gong beachies including a secluded rock/sand bottom cove in Wyre’s backyard

Had a few days up the coast, perfect 4-6 ft across most the weekend and literally no one else out. One of the best weekends of surfing I have had in a fccckn long while.

Drailed wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 03, 2020 12:01 pm

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 02, 2020 3:57 pm

Three sessions today, assorted gong beachies including a secluded rock/sand bottom cove in Wyre’s backyard

Had a few days up the coast, perfect 4-6 ft across most the weekend and literally no one else out. One of the best weekends of surfing I have had in a fccckn long while.

Is that Wales?

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 03, 2020 12:57 pm

Drailed wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 03, 2020 12:01 pm

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 02, 2020 3:57 pm

Three sessions today, assorted gong beachies including a secluded rock/sand bottom cove in Wyre’s backyard

Had a few days up the coast, perfect 4-6 ft across most the weekend and literally no one else out. One of the best weekends of surfing I have had in a fccckn long while.

Is that Wales?

New South Wales, not old South Wales - that would have been 2ft onshore dribble.

been a total dream the past few days.

Drailed wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:31 pm

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 03, 2020 12:57 pm

Drailed wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 03, 2020 12:01 pm

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 02, 2020 3:57 pm

Three sessions today, assorted gong beachies including a secluded rock/sand bottom cove in Wyre’s backyard

Had a few days up the coast, perfect 4-6 ft across most the weekend and literally no one else out. One of the best weekends of surfing I have had in a fccckn long while.

Is that Wales?

New South Wales, not old South Wales - that would have been 2ft onshore dribble.

Advantages of a proper swell window hey lol

v. true Iggs.

A proper swell window can compensate for a helluva lot in the real world.

Call me a narrow minded troglodyte but life is too short to spend any time in areas that don't have a proper swell window.


I feel a severe lack of some essential element, like a mole rat deprived of sunshine, in those places.

.

true, but it has no eyes as a result. It's a metaphor.

you get my drift?

.

More likely you struggle with comprehension.

I'll spell it out.

Consider a mole rat starved of the sun and compare it, say, with a fully grown male red kangaroo.

Now consider that metaphor in light of a hypothetical welsh surfer with a scant swell window and compare to the Australian surfer who rejoices in the the more full throated version.
The lack of a swell window plays some role in the paucity of development as per the mole rat v the kangaroo.



You might not agree, but can you at least get the gist of it?

Steve. Have a look at Llangennith on Gower at this link and read the commentary on tight swell window.

It’s got that same look about it that the far northern corner of seven mile beach geroa has. Heavily sheltered by the outer reef. Swell still rolls in, but it’s essentially castrated.

https://mpora.com/surfing/surfing-uk-be ... o-surfing/

Godsave wouldn't be the first surfer to over-compensate for a tight swell window.