RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Surfed for nearly 4 hours today, nice conditions, just a mate and I. There was a long time between sets, most only shoulder high, a few bigger. The offshore was too light to hold the faces up, so lots of short frustrating rides. We surfed it as the tide dropped from about 6' to 6".

Early morning looked good, small swell, glassy conditions, no-one out. As I paddled out the wind swung onshore, within 15 minutes it was crap.

Paddled in.

In the afternoon the swell, unforecast, picked up, regular overhead sets, some head and a half, rare doubles. Offshore and sunny, a dozen or so out. The waves were sectioning fast at best, half were closeouts. It kept about a dozen of us occupied for a few hours. The swell was slowly dying, but classically, a surprise double overhead set finished off the day

Cranked wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 12, 2020 9:29 pm

Early morning looked good, small swell, glassy conditions, no-one out. As I paddled out the wind swung onshore, within 15 minutes it was crap.

Paddled in.

In the afternoon the swell, unforecast, picked up, regular overhead sets, some head and a half, rare doubles. Offshore and sunny, a dozen or so out. The waves were sectioning fast at best, half were closeouts. It kept about a dozen of us occupied for a few hours. The swell was slowly dying, but classically, a surprise double overhead set finished off the day

You tracking the swell sources Cranked or just dealing with it as it comes?

I don't track the swell sources duck, that's what computers are for, I just look at the predictions. And I look at the breaks half a dozen times a day anyway. Swell and wind are usually a given most of the year, the wet season needs a bit more attention though, and during the dry too much swell is more of a problem.

Fcuk the surf turned on this morning.

I went out at 8am, the tide was still really low. As I paddled out to my usual spot it didn't look so good, head high but sectioning and closing out.

Further down though I saw the only other guy out catch a great wave so I paddled down. A massive dugong glided by. For half an hour we caught some really nice waves, really fast and hollow but no time to stall.

About 6 guys paddled out but spread themselves out over the reef. Everyone was scoring. I caught one really good wave and was swept around the point by an endless set after it shut down on me.

It was still shallow so I walked back up the beach. As I walked I came across a 1m purple and black sea snake that slid up the beach to a hole in the cliff.

A light onshore sprung up just before I was going to paddle back out.That killed it, the swell was still there but nothing was makeable.

Just one hour, but a good one.

We are just the other side of a massive 2.8m tide. The swell is supposed to double this arvo, winds are not looking good though but still offshore ATM. Just about to try again

Awesome Cranked.

Cranked...living the dream.

It just gets better and better. Hit the water again at 2pm on my 7'6 this time, just one guy out. 10 wave set as I paddled out. Just got outside and rested for 10 minutes and the next set hit. Well overhead, 50m ride.

Next set was bigger, got a great wave, airbourne half way down, thinking I'll see how good the shaper was, then reconnected on the bottom third of the wave smoothly and pulled in down the line.

3 of us now and a set that must have been near double overhead came rolling in. I sprint paddled and made it over the first two but got hammered by the next three.

Three more sets over the next half hour and then it dropped off to erratic head high sets and continued to slowly drop off for the rest of the afternoon

Looking good this morning, head high swell, glassy, only a couple out. Dead low, guess I'll go out now anyway.

Head high, glassy, only a couple out, guess you'll go out anyway Cranked?
Pissorf carnt, may you shake hands with a thousand virus ridden millenials.

You'll now have to isolate on your return Cranky...

Yeah, I just replied to MMs similar info. There's about a dozen documents telling me what I should do

Cranky look at the positives. You’ll be able to brush up on aspects of the Communist Manifesto.

But remember, we live in the time after the fall of utopia and the bloody death of utopianism. Ours is the age of disillusionment, of the strange combination of immense technical possibilities with social hopelessness. One hundred and fifty years on from the Communist Manifesto, the spectre that haunts the collective imagination of Europe and of the world is not the looming prospect of "communism" but the haunting nightmare memory of the terrible experience of "communism", that is Stalinism, in practice.

And Corona virus, of course.

I had a great surf yesterday arvo. Head high perfection with a bunch of mates from all over the world who I've got to know pretty well over the last 6 years.

I was just feeling that I was getting some form back, catching at least my share and everyone letting me do it. Last year after that rotator cuff injury kept me out of the water for most of the year I never really got back any form. It was embarrassing surfing like a kook and blowing everything time and time again.

I'm not sure if I can keep it up for the season in WA. I could go to Gnaraloo but Jesus, it so primitive and booring for a long stay.

Might be well clear of the Corona Virus.

Thud wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 16, 2020 7:28 am

Cranky look at the positives. You’ll be able to brush up on aspects of the Communist Manifesto.

But remember, we live in the time after the fall of utopia and the bloody death of utopianism. Ours is the age of disillusionment, of the strange combination of immense technical possibilities with social hopelessness. One hundred and fifty years on from the Communist Manifesto, the spectre that haunts the collective imagination of Europe and of the world is not the looming prospect of "communism" but the haunting nightmare memory of the terrible experience of "communism", that is Stalinism, in practice.

And Corona virus, of course.

That's pretty deep, thud. You're more than just a pretty face.

Might be seeing the death of Capitalism as we speak. We live in a post modern age that's a fight between democracy and Capitalism. Cracks me up when the Right bang on about Socialism and Communism.