Where did you surf today ?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Dec 10, 2019 7:47 pm

Hmmmm. Now there's two somewhat contrasting surf experiences.

Half your luck Nick
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foamy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Tue Dec 10, 2019 9:08 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Dec 10, 2019 1:23 pm
ho ho fcuken ho, Sunset was smoking today, clean new swell 6-8', light offshore trades, and about 10 guys out, half of whom could not surf very well at all.
Nick, why were there so few out and where were all the good surfers?

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Dec 11, 2019 4:12 am

ah who knows, it was a Monday and people work, there'd have been a few more out in the late arvo. The QS pros have all fled the scene and the CT pros' attention is all on Pipeline, you don't surf Sunset to get ready for Pipe.

There's heaps of rec haole surfers around here now, people who've moved here from CA or the east coast or wherever, they mostly don't surf when it's over 6'.

Quite a few of the super hard core Sunset guys have either stepped away a bit or just don't surf that much in December 'cause of the whole Triple Crown thing. Others are glued to Pipe like the pros are. I reckon once Pipe's done I'll see a few more of them in the water.

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offshore1
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by offshore1 » Wed Dec 11, 2019 5:12 am

Nah Nick, word in the water is the Carroll stinkeye preceded you.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Dec 11, 2019 7:25 am

Are you mad offshore1. I'm friends with everybody!

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Dec 11, 2019 7:30 am

That's something that got me about Hawaii. A lot of places were pretty quiet mid week. Apart from Waikiki and the roads around the islands there were heaps of beaches that were as quiet as somewhere halfway up the coast in NSW on a Tuesday.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Wed Dec 11, 2019 8:35 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Dec 11, 2019 4:12 am
ah who knows, it was a Monday and people work, there'd have been a few more out in the late arvo. The QS pros have all fled the scene and the CT pros' attention is all on Pipeline, you don't surf Sunset to get ready for Pipe.

There's heaps of rec haole surfers around here now, people who've moved here from CA or the east coast or wherever, they mostly don't surf when it's over 6'.

Quite a few of the super hard core Sunset guys have either stepped away a bit or just don't surf that much in December 'cause of the whole Triple Crown thing. Others are glued to Pipe like the pros are. I reckon once Pipe's done I'll see a few more of them in the water.
What were you riding?

What’s the profile of a hard core Sunset local vs. say another local. Are the Sunset crew the better all round surfers and dare I say it better watermen than say Pipe locals?
“Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far” — THEODORE ROOSVELT

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:26 pm

Yesterday 7'1". Sunset core locals are older than Pipe core locals. I dunno about better watermen, all the people who've been surfing this coast well for years are pretty fcuken competent.

Today, wooo, bigger. Swell swung a bit NW then more north again around midday. Surfed Sunset for a couple of hours after watching the contest all morning, 8-10', a bit wayward but some good squared up ones. One very special, a full bore 10' NW peak with long sloping wall pulling into the peak from the channel, I thought for a moment I was too deep but the wave came across under me. Full on vertical takeoff obscured by the lip, freed up at the base, opened out and hammered two or three big swooping base to lip carves. Went up a few inches to 7'7" same thing though, six channel pintail. I caught 21 waves in two hours, a crazy total at fairly solid Sunset, but now I am crisp.

Who wants the 10' NW wedge? I tell ya what, nobody else near me did.

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:30 pm

Yes please! I will never, never experience that and your description brings it right to me.
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:33 pm

Nick's just lucky Derailed wasn't out there.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:37 pm

Wyre wrote:
Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:30 pm
Yes please! I will never, never experience that and your description brings it right to me.
You snaked me.

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:41 pm

You've already had one. Wave hog!
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:42 pm

Maroubra, Tuesday morning. Paddled into a 2' bomb. Limited visibility due to the suffocating bushfire smoke. Took the drop like AI at Chopes. The section I had hope to fcuking smash crumbled like fetta, so I lay down and belly-boarded to the beach where I got changed and had a coffee.

EUWWW!!

Who wants to claim it?

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:47 pm

Aj, I'm not sure about your spelling of Yewww. Sounds more like a mix of disgust and 'Euro' as said by a European.

But yeah, I'll claim it
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Wed Dec 11, 2019 3:23 pm

Sorry, forgot to mention that you dropped in on Froggy.

He's at 1:26...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... e=emb_logo

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Wed Dec 11, 2019 7:41 pm

ajohnsen wrote:
Wed Dec 11, 2019 2:42 pm
Maroubra......Paddled into a 2' bomb......The section I had hope to fcuking smash crumbled like fetta
Nobody got pics of this sequence by chance?

If so, GSTQ will turn it into gif image and walessplain for years to come about how you were out of step.
godsavethequeen wrote:
Thu Nov 14, 2019 11:55 pm
My beef has always and only been with the realistic range available to the average Sydney working stiff
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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godsavethequeen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by godsavethequeen » Wed Dec 11, 2019 9:19 pm

Sorry for hurting your feelings iggy. I promise I won’t mention it again
Hatchnam wrote:
Sat Jul 04, 2020 5:35 pm
Waist high grovel, mostly shutting down.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Wed Dec 11, 2019 10:10 pm

I knew you’d bite.
godsavethequeen wrote:
Thu Nov 14, 2019 11:55 pm
My beef has always and only been with the realistic range available to the average Sydney working stiff
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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