RealSurf Surfers' Forum

In the water at 6am today. Started with head high sets every 15 minutes, only 2 or three waves in a set though, but there was only a hand full out over a 500m stretch of the reef.

First well overhead 6-8 wave set at around 7am, that kept up till I got out at 8am.

Got my pick of a wave from nearly every set, rides were short, 20-60m, but fun trying to beat the sections.

Should be bigger and better later.

The Bommie, Peak and Outside Corner are all working now. Beautiful day, light offshore, not a drop of water out of place

Any Australians in the line up?

10%

Garie beach. Four foot plus thumpy ripbowl lefts up the north corner and some rights further down the beach. Pitching top to bottom, lots of energy in the swell. A bit unsettled but plenty of waves to pick off. Only three people out.

About the same at Bronte, Tama and Bondi with about the same number out. Not me if you were asking.

Yeh, surfed at DY today. The point was packed so walked up to mid beach and paddled out. Only 2 young fellas out and that was it. There were some pretty decent raw 6ft sets coming through the middle at times with punchy lips. It was shifty and closing out in places. Water moving about and such,

The two young guys went in pretty much straight away. So I found myself out there in the middle of this without anyone around. For me it’s pretty rare, you always have a few surfers out in Sydney. I won’t lie a few “what if” scenarios went through my head. I’m over 50, average ability, shark maybe etc.

What it did do is sharpen my focus, I can’t remember the last time I’d looked at the horizon for large sets, I usually just notice people paddling. My duck diving is lazy, wasn’t today. F@ck I was on high alert for about 30 minutes. Got a few waves, rag dolled and settled down.

It wasn’t the surf that made me slightly anxious for a time, it was being in it alone. No one else paddled out. Spun me out for a while.

i love those days. big and alone.

so much so, i find it that hard to get, in the last month i've chosen the skatepark over the ocean and so far haven't regretted it once.

Gator^

Big and alone are definitely two words I wouldnt associate with the Gold Coast.

Yeah was pretty raw today, sounds like it was breaking similarly all over Sydney. Some cracking waves but fccckn difficult take offs. Found myself on the ocean floor in about 15-20ft of water after screwing one up.

You mean 3-6ft right?

I blew it this morning too. Had a window of an hour or so, dead high tide. Looked. Looked again at another spot. Na. Headies not quite east enough. Hmm I'll go further towards Gong. Na.

Should've gone out at the first place. Fcuk!!

Tomorrow, is this swell gonna stick around? Or is it doing the night time sayonara?

Drailed wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:55 pm

Yeah was pretty raw today, sounds like it was breaking similarly all over Sydney. Some cracking waves but fccckn difficult take offs. Found myself on the ocean floor in about 15-20ft of water after screwing one up.

Measured from the front or from the back? And is this 15-20 foot Iggy scale?

channels wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 11, 2019 4:37 pm

Drailed wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:55 pm

Yeah was pretty raw today, sounds like it was breaking similarly all over Sydney. Some cracking waves but fccckn difficult take offs. Found myself on the ocean floor in about 15-20ft of water after screwing one up.

Measured from the front or from the back? And is this 15-20 foot Iggy scale?

Talking about how deep it was you cretin.

Waves were breaking in 15-20 foot of water?

OK.

Hit the bottom 15+ Feet deep?
Musta been dark down there.

If I'm right, a wave will break in depths 1.5 X height. 5 ft Iggy will therefore break at 15 ft depth. Loofy's da man

Caveat is that would be a gentle burger so maybe he's not da man