RealSurf Surfers' Forum

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 02, 2019 9:55 am

Back in my day, a six foot wave stayed a six foot wave until the bitter end. That's when waves had gumption and resilience. These soft-cock millennial waves break at six foot and immediately start diminishing until they're all frightened and small by the time they get to the sand.

spring is in the air in here.

everyone is losing their mind.

This is incredulous
I'm in Legion's boat and I started surfing in Vicco in 1974
Some over call it, some under call it, but everyone I know uses the Iggy scale or relative to human height, eg. head high, doh, etc.

So they feel the need to clarify wave measurements by refering to human scale?
Point taken.
The elitist bit really refers to the fact that it is more useful for estimating waves over head high than under head high. Since the vast majority of surfers surf waves under head high most of the time it's not very useful.
Surf today: 1-2......actually 1.

god it was pumping here.
absolutely glorious.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 02, 2019 12:28 pm

.

Since the vast majority of surfers surf waves under head high most of the time it's not very useful.
Surf today: 1-2......actually 1.

We call that Carroll high .

No we fcuken don't mate.

I have estimated waves as being in the 20' plus range and then gone and surfed the fcuken things.

Sure they were about fourteen times overhead, but I believe this qualifies me as an elitist.

Nothing wrong with that

I should buy a lottery ticket today.

I had one of those surfs. sunny mid-morning and I'm surfing super high quality waves......with one other dude.

my normal low wave count, high quality surf turned into a very high wave count, high quality surf.

rode a wave and felt, yep, that's as good as I can go.

then tried to do one of those big Medina lip-line floater thingies on a draining close-out section. Felt my knee buckle and a jolt of pain. That seemed to come out OK.

the got hideously rag-dolled and sliced up on the rocks coming in. At one point, I'm getting dragged backwards out out to sea over the rocks and my foot got wedged in between two rocks. I got it out a micro-second before the next wave slammed into me.

everything seems fine now. Just that bright, sharp pain that being sliced by barnacles brings.

Look beanpong. Steve is showing off !!!

my knee feels fine now.

should I be worried?

or play on?

Play on, you would know if you were in trouble, especially at your age.

left or right knee?

right knee. front leg. It got compressed and then I was thrown, rather rudely, to the bottom of the sea.

I would get the ice and a compression bandage on it early. Can't hurt and will speed up recovery if anything is actually wrong.

too late now?

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 02, 2019 3:00 pm

too late now?

nah ... first 48 hours is all about that

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