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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 7:04 pm
by Beanpole
steve shearer wrote: ↑Wed Jul 10, 2019 12:14 pm
I had a fun surf at the local.
rode my MC 6'3" which felt so fcuking good. Hasn't been wet for a while, which speaks to the generally crappy surf we've had in the last 12 months.
clean jump off and as I was paddling out I was watching a bloke surfing towards me on a wave. I saw a big bait ball- mullet- in the wave and as he kicked off a 6-8ft bronzey split the bait ball in half as it came surfing into them.
So the bait ball and shark is about 30 metres from me and now in the whitewater, which I will have to duck dive, imminently.
You're fcuking joking, I thought. So I turned around and rode the whitewater straight back up the rocks.
stood on the rocks for about 5 minutes thinking about how stupid it would look trying to get a gofundme page up if I did get bit and couldn't work.......then jumped off and sat really wide waiting for these long period sets that were really amazing freight trains. With no fear.
Insta-mums put more fear into me than sharks, true.
Ive been downshifting up and down through quiver lately. Enjoying that a lot. There is a very big difference between standard high performance shortboards made with no wave in mind and my custom boards made with specific requirements. This MC with its concave, but mainly the nose to tail tucked edge rail feels so positive and drivey.
As I get older my surfing feels like its still improving in good waves. That might be delusional, but it sure feels better.
Conversely it feels worse, so much worse in shitty surf.
Funny you should say that, Steve. Have to agree.
Re: sharks in bait balls. A few years ago I paddled out at Saltwater in a decent swell with about three guys in the water. Most caught waves as I paddled out. Kept paddling up to the point and as a set came through and I was about to duck dive the first wave a school of mullet lept out of the wave face right at me.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 12:52 pm
by Nick Carroll
Playful 4’ inconsistent but fun as.
Inshore water’s cold now! 400m out it’s still really warm.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 5:13 pm
by RickyG
Grabbed a few tiny ones in a protected southern corner. Very lazy but after flu and no surfing for ages it felt right.
By the way, since when have the flags been up in July?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 5:15 pm
by BA
South Steyne? They’re there year round.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 6:00 pm
by Thud
Curly this morning. Cold
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 9:28 am
by Kunji
Another hoax swell
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 9:29 am
by buddy
Good swell here, shit banks.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 10:54 am
by Beerfan
Kunji wrote: ↑Tue Jul 16, 2019 9:28 am
Another hoax swell
I drove down the coast to pick up some bamboo and there appeared to be waves from Bombo to werri without too much wind as I drove past.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 11:47 am
by Kunji
My mates down at minnamurra, its only 2-3ft. Very incon but clean. Same as a mate up in port mac. Very small on the beaches here.
Good diving conditions though. Plenty of duskies about.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 11:57 am
by Nick Carroll
huh really pretty 2-4' at Newport this morning, down from yesterday's 5'+ peak
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:01 pm
by Cranked
Now I'm laying down in a three seater lounge at the empty, as usual, gate 55 departure lounge. Plane leaves in an hour, an old friend will pick me up at the airport, bike guy will have delivered my bike, my room will be ready, and I can ease my way back into surfing.
Thank god. It seems like an eternity has gone by since I Iast stood on the cliffs checking out the surf.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:13 pm
by Thud
DY, still some charge in the swell on shallow banks.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:43 pm
by buddy
Cranked wrote: ↑Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:01 pm
Now I'm laying down in a three seater lounge at the empty, as usual, gate 55 departure lounge. Plane leaves in an hour, an old friend will pick me up at the airport, bike guy will have delivered my bike, my room will be ready, and I can ease my way back into surfing.
Thank god. It seems like an eternity has gone by since I Iast stood on the cliffs checking out the surf.
I stayed 5 nights in Seminyak for a wedding after Krui. The waves on the Bukit were cranking yet the combination of me being a bit crook and Bali traffic being so dysfunctional meant I never went down there.
I suppose it was still a better effort than beerfan was it? That went to Bali for a non-surfing family holiday.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 1:09 pm
by Nick Carroll
croissant still holds the lead for going to Oahu in December and not going to the greatest Eddie ever.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 1:14 pm
by jimmy
Take it easy on Beery thanks, Buddy. He went to Waterbom after all.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 3:42 pm
by BA
Thud wrote: ↑Tue Jul 16, 2019 12:13 pm
DY, still some charge in the swell on shallow banks.
Same, but it was pretty much just closing out when I was there.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 4:00 pm
by Thud
Yeah, a few in the mix around no mans. It looked better past the pole up towards the lagoon
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2019 4:16 pm
by buddy
jimmy wrote: ↑Tue Jul 16, 2019 1:14 pm
Take it easy on Beery thanks, Buddy. He went to Waterbom after all.
Did he go on the flow rider?