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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 1:16 pm
by Nick Carroll
fun day - wobbly but muscly swell combo, light winds

kinda feel as if some boards might be snapped in the next few days

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 1:26 pm
by steve shearer
it's weak up here.

same sich : no sand on the Points= rock runners or flabby Bells like peelers or a narrow range for beachies.

Man,the sand transport is really broken. Sad.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 2:42 pm
by Lucky Al
Cranked wrote:
Thu Jun 20, 2019 7:32 am
Lucky Al wrote:
Wed Jun 19, 2019 9:53 pm
three very enjoyable and exhausting years.
Where did stay? That would have been a great time to live and surf around the bukit. Even 10 years ago it was pretty quiet around ulus. There was only a handful of places to eat and hardly any nightlife, now development is exploding.

Banksy got his 25year leases within 200m of the cliffs just in time.
the first year i lived in a family losmen on poppies 1, then i got a job and the company let me live in a villa they had in seminyak, up past the gado-gado. i was always riding around though and stayed at a friend's place on the bukit a fair bit. we surfed belangan and nusa dua a lot and rode around checking different spots. uluwatu, padang-padang, bingin and kuta area spots usually looked too crowded, but it wasn't hard to keep going and find empty line-ups. we rode to lombok and sumbawa a few times too. had a lot of fun and some great surfs!

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 5:17 pm
by Cranked
Lucky Al wrote:
Thu Jun 20, 2019 2:42 pm
Cranked wrote:
Thu Jun 20, 2019 7:32 am
Lucky Al wrote:
Wed Jun 19, 2019 9:53 pm
three very enjoyable and exhausting years.
Where did stay? That would have been a great time to live and surf around the bukit. Even 10 years ago it was pretty quiet around ulus. There was only a handful of places to eat and hardly any nightlife, now development is exploding.

Banksy got his 25year leases within 200m of the cliffs just in time.
the first year i lived in a family losmen on poppies 1, then i got a job and the company let me live in a villa they had in seminyak, up past the gado-gado. i was always riding around though and stayed at a friend's place on the bukit a fair bit. we surfed belangan and nusa dua a lot and rode around checking different spots. uluwatu, padang-padang, bingin and kuta area spots usually looked too crowded, but it wasn't hard to keep going and find empty line-ups. we rode to lombok and sumbawa a few times too. had a lot of fun and some great surfs!
Mrs Cranked and I spent a year living in Legian in 1982. I would have been content a large portion of the rest of my life there and would still move somewhere in Bali but Mrs Cranked is not at all keen. 6 alternate months a year was the compromise. I'd still keep our place in Perth though and spend a good deal of time there.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 5:40 pm
by Lucky Al
our office was in the back alleys of legian (gang janji i think it might have been) and i used to ride over to surf padma at lunchtime. had some great little surfs at that beachbreak. down at the imperial, too.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 6:11 pm
by Cranked
That whole Kuta/Legian/Seminyak/Canggu area is just about dysfunctional now

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 6:23 pm
by Nick Carroll
fcuk it did muscle up this arvo, v solid 4-6' SE groundswell still crossed a bit from the east

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 6:35 pm
by Lucky Al
are you close enough to jog to the beach for a surf, nick?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 7:46 pm
by Nick Carroll
god yes.

but sadly enough I often drive.

I go to the beach and hang out with younger crew, and 14 year old kids, and people who I've surfed with for 40 years.

I often take a couple of boards down and go back and forth between them during a surf. Like trying to figure out stuff about the boards, and maybe about me.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 10:18 pm
by Beanpole
Cranked wrote:
Thu Jun 20, 2019 6:11 pm
That whole Kuta/Legian/Seminyak/Canggu area is just about dysfunctional now
First time I went to Bali was 1982. I'd been to Sri Lanka, India, Nepal, Thailand and Malaysia by then on the trip. Bali was Fcuking really relaxing and I still had a legrope in my pack but no board. Hardly a Losman in Legian and it didn't vaguely join up with Kuta. Just a shop on the main road that had a sign...mushroom...omelette, milkshake, juice.

Borrowed a chewed up old board from the losman and paddled out to Kuta Reef.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 8:13 am
by steve shearer
small and weak here again.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 9:04 am
by Thud
Cranked wrote:
Thu Jun 20, 2019 6:11 pm
That whole Kuta/Legian/Seminyak/Canggu area is just about dysfunctional now
Its like a euro version of low rise Gold Coast with enough filthy streets to make it feel like SE Asia. Get a decent coffee mind you.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 9:06 am
by Nick Carroll
Well that energy’s gone but oooo a bitter fcuking wind is blowing, full on proper winter SW, pre-swell wind.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 9:31 am
by Cranked
Thud wrote:
Fri Jun 21, 2019 9:04 am
Cranked wrote:
Thu Jun 20, 2019 6:11 pm
That whole Kuta/Legian/Seminyak/Canggu area is just about dysfunctional now
Its like a euro version of low rise Gold Coast with enough filthy streets to make it feel like SE Asia. Get a decent coffee mind you.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 9:34 am
by Thud
"Ah, how's the serenity"

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 9:46 am
by steve shearer
the Bukit is pretty crazy as well.

you still OK with it Cranked?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 10:36 am
by Drailed
Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jun 20, 2019 7:46 pm
god yes.

but sadly enough I often drive.

I go to the beach and hang out with younger crew, and 14 year old kids, and people who I've surfed with for 40 years.

I often take a couple of boards down and go back and forth between them during a surf. Like trying to figure out stuff about the boards, and maybe about me.
Typical boomer. "fccck the planet, it's all about me"

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2019 10:59 am
by ajohnsen
Mate, give us a break, we don't have long left to enjoy earth's (dwindling) bounties.