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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 1:44 pm
by Nick Carroll
Lucky Al wrote:
Thu Jun 06, 2019 12:20 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jun 06, 2019 11:57 am
fcuk it's so good here today.

tomorrow, Surfline.com, 13.2 ft at 16 seconds S ooooo! Looks like I'll be going weird and feral again on the 9'8"
you must have been involved in the mid-80s tracks publication "the book of big surf", nick? i think kirk wilcox might have been the editor. i seem to recall a story about surfing at newport in it, possibly by mike newling or even by you?
I can't remember!

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 2:18 pm
by steve shearer
god I loved that book.

I remember reading it at my grandparents house at Wynnum Manly and being gobsmacked by Wayne Bartholomews baroque comparisons between surfing Pipe and being a Japanese samurai warrior.
It just thrilled me right off my feet.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 2:26 pm
by foamy
I don’t have a copy, but

Image

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 2:31 pm
by foamy
Image

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 4:49 pm
by Lucky Al
that's the one! i wonder if i still have a copy in a box at dad's house. i have a vague memory of the mike newling one having a weird and feral feel about it, or maybe it was the rod kirsop one?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:02 pm
by steve shearer
I think it was the Simon Anderson one where he snapped his leggy and had to swim to the beach.

God I love that weird and feral feel, love that inversion between standing on the land looking out and then, as if by magic, being in the ocean looking back at the land.
It's so surreal, so sensual.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:46 pm
by Nick Carroll
Designed by wife Wendy!

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:49 pm
by Nick Carroll
Oh yeah it had that epic story by Foo, "The Unridden Realm", Surfer mag made a whole lot of noise many years later over having published it, almost like they invented the story etc, but we ran it about six months before they did. Had the insane shot of Grambeau's, of the loose board on the face of a Waimea closeout.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:50 pm
by Nick Carroll
That was the story in which Foo wrote his classic spaghetti-Western line about how if you want the ultimate thrill you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price. You'd have thought it was cheese except nine years later, he did.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 1:10 pm
by Thud
Manly mid beach, some good ones in between the close outs.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 9:29 am
by Hatchnam
Flawless 4 ft lefts at greenhills as the tide started filling in.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 11:01 am
by channels
Some great banks around.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 11:47 am
by Wyre
Absolutely pumping down at the nasho. Was just getting started when I got totally caught out by a rogue close out. Landed on me, so I dived and came up to find my board in half. AND NO FCUKING SPARE! Bummed.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 5:42 pm
by Beanpole
Got a few this arvo. Actually went a bit better than I thought I was going to since I hadn't had a surf in a week or more.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 2:30 pm
by Beanpole
Just had the surf I expected to have yesterday. Total waste of time. The little right in the Corner looked fun but was as fickle as Loofys Cat. Water was nice though.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 5:01 pm
by ajohnsen
Eloura. Straight as a ruler. It was my first surf in at least a couple of months. Shoulder/arm thing is still there but not giving me any grief. No paddle power, though.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 5:39 pm
by Wyre
Glad to hear the shoulder is better Aj. Time to
surf more I reckon. Ease into it, but get down here!

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Jun 10, 2019 1:02 pm
by Beanpole
Groan......nice little lefts in the corner at Bondi......if you could get them. Super crowded.
Hey, tool guy on the stripey minimal.....the fact you can catch every wave that comes through doesn't mean you have to. Better paddle back out as fast as I can to make sure no one else can catch one. Thanks, dickhead.