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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
by Nick Carroll
Man it got GOOD this arvo.

All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.

I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.

It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:44 pm
by Nick Carroll
Maybe I am beginning to see some things differently in the wake of my dad's death. I used to kid myself that he wanted to hear about our surfing adventures, and he always seemed to enjoy the stories.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:57 pm
by Drailed
Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
PM me next time Bruddah, I will paddle out with you.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:46 pm
by Lucky Al
Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
Man it got GOOD this arvo.

All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.

I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.

It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
where were all the surfers?!

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:53 pm
by Nick Carroll
I imagine they were all off being decent human beings.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:58 pm
by steve shearer
oh god, don't martyr yourself over a good days surfing for chrissakes.

thats what we do.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:13 pm
by Legion
...

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:13 pm
by channels
Lucky Al wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:46 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pm
Man it got GOOD this arvo.

All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.

I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.

It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
where were all the surfers?!
At 1pm on a Wednesday? Working i guess.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:41 pm
by Lucky Al
whenever i visit dad (usually mid-winter) and the point's good it's busy from dawn to dusk. does newport have fewer surfers than northern suburbs of wollongong?

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:45 pm
by BA
I could have surfed, but I’m just a softcock.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:50 pm
by Nick Carroll
steve shearer wrote:
Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:58 pm
oh god, don't martyr yourself over a good days surfing for chrissakes.

thats what we do.
Look steve. I’m just thinking about it for chrissakes.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:50 pm
by Nick Carroll
I’m responding to a feeling I had.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:56 pm
by godsavethequeen
Well I, for one, am enjoying the bittersweet lyricism and reflection that has crept into Nick's writing over the past couple of weeks

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:57 pm
by buddy
Everyone was at Manly probably.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:58 pm
by Nick Carroll
Well god save forget that and do me a favour and respond with some sort of personal thought or feeling about what I posted about above.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 6:59 pm
by Beanpole
Well, the otherness of surfing is negated by comps and romanticised by the companies....but it still floats out there.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:01 pm
by Nick Carroll
Like I crave an actual communication about it. Aside from poor loofy trying to be funny or shearer going the niggle.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2019 7:03 pm
by buddy
Sometimes when I surf alone I want someone to share it with, but other times I love it.
For some reason, I haven't really thought too hard about it, but I like surfing with mates up here on the north coast but in Vic I love surfing alone.