RealSurf Surfers' Forum

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godsavethequeen wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 01, 2019 6:29 pm

Nice waves, by the way. How many stars would you give it?

2

I piss two litres.

.

Noticed most west aus guys that I’ve seen in the last few days have been surfing thinned out rhino chasers when the surf gets solid. Like 6’10” or bigger rounded pin tails, foiled out. Pretty thin Doesn’t seem to help them enough when it’s 20 knots offshore and 8ft ground swell. Watched a couple of spots for a while and all I saw was shifty peaks and nobody catching anything worth talking about. They were all excited as hell about sitting out there and mostly getting flogged by random giant sets, with the occasional guy paddling into a burgery lump or a runaway closeout. It was hard core but fcuk it wasn’t really surfing. Other spots must be better I guess.

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Legion wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 01, 2019 10:20 pm

Next trip head to the desert. You'll see guys getting waves. You've gotta remember, it's kinda isolated over here so whatever the rest of the world is doing can take a while to percolate over. Sometimes you'll stumble across jaw-dropping sessions though.

I’m not saying it doesn’t get good Legion, I’m sure it does. I’m sure it gets epic. It’s been eye opening, but without local knowledge it’s pretty tricky, even with your valuable intel on spots it’s tricky over here. I’ve seen 2 swells now and most spots have been super marginal or not working at all, or out of control big. Either too much offshore so no bastard can paddle in or too much swell so it’s out of control. Up Yallingup way the swell wasn’t getting in. Not sure bout your fave spot as I didn’t go full 4wd. Didn’t search south of Margs for surf but had a thorough look north of margs and didn’t score anything worth talking about. A few big sketchy lefts but pretty low quality. Didn’t have much time though and I’m sure there were spots working that I didn’t see.

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Legion wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 01, 2019 11:10 pm

Most importantly, hopefully Mrs Duck had a good trip.

The most important thing in the universe and thanks for being so cogent to that point. She had an epic time, notwithstanding her idiot partner.

Beanpole came too?

Looks like a little bit of sand starting to move south to north off the ballina bar, Steve.
Will need to be a lot to fill in boulder bay and lennox reef though.

Oh well, thats a start. Not a grain moved into position from Flat Rock north.

Yesterday, despite the S swell there was still a bizarre north to south reverse rip running at the Point.

4-5 foot beachie. Lumpy random peaks but still enough shape and wall to wind up some speed and get some carves happening.

Bronte was big with a comp on. The odd really good looking peak was cresting out past the pack n between close outs. Good clean up set washed the whole crew halfway to shore.

So just drove around with a hangover looking at surf then.

Did an 8k paddle round Bangalley Head and came up to a current line, water was easily 2 degree warmer on one side than the other.

I was pondering this when a fcuken tiger shark swam directly under me.

Jeebus!

Been a few Tigers around. Gotta be the warmer water. Are the Tigers keeping the Whites away? Is it a good thing?

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