RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Cranked wrote: ↑

Thu May 23, 2019 9:20 am

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Wed May 22, 2019 7:32 pm

godsavethequeen wrote: ↑

Wed May 22, 2019 7:13 pm

How is that incompatible with the above statement?

Just seems a bit incongruous with the timeline.

You've been on the same board for 3-4years but your surfing is improving because you are riding better boards?

Doesn't seem like a salient factor.

Steve, you of course know of Geoff McCoys belief that you should ride a board for years and only then can you get the best out of it.
So, after 4 years, GSTQ has now bonded with his board and that synergy of board and rider is now starting to peak.

Got a great long form interview/podcast with Geoff Cranked, I think you would like it.

I'm familiar with Geoff's theories, and it's my understanding he is referring to the design you should stick with through different iterations.

Godsave has been static but claimed better boards as a reason for improvement. That sounds contradictory to me.

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Thu May 23, 2019 10:19 am

I had a long conversation with Geoff McCoy many years ago and he totally sold me on his philosophy. I ended up with a 5'8" Nugget. I really liked it at first, but it lacked something and so the like faded away. Bit like a bell curve without the bell.

Haha!

I've only found nuggets to go in fast, powerful waves. The flat rockered 'double ender' goes really well in average oz conditions, it's similar to, for want of a better comparison, a hypto krypto - catches everything, fast as fcuk, and has range.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Thu May 23, 2019 10:23 am

Got a great long form interview/podcast with Geoff Cranked, I think you would like it.

I'm familiar with Geoff's theories, and it's my understanding he is referring to the design you should stick with through different iterations.

Yeah, agree, sticking with a design rather than a board.

Sounds good. Where's the podcast?

hang on I'll find it.

channels wrote: ↑

Thu May 23, 2019 7:08 am

marauding mullet wrote: ↑

Thu May 23, 2019 6:27 am

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Wed May 22, 2019 10:24 pm

but then again so does Adelaide sometimes.

Adelaide is up a gulf it’s flat unless there’s a storm

Legion calls your claim that Adelaide is flat and raises you Perth.

No Adelaide doesn’t get swell, thanks to Kangaroo Island, Perth does at least get swell
Drive an hour south of Adelaide however, different story.

On the flip side of Geoff’s mantra of glueing yourself to one board, you’re also limiting your spectrum of suitable boards for the varied conditions, and locking your neuro/muscular pattern into something very set (limited).

godsavethequeen wrote: ↑

Wed May 22, 2019 8:23 pm

Your board reviews on Beachgrit seem to be characterised by large periods of struggle.

More of a journey than a struggle. Latest review the board came a lot easier.

Lot of learning goes on when you are trying to figure something out.

So how about you then? Still improving? I remember you saying before that you tend to go with a mal rather than a groveller in smaller stuff. Has this ushered in a new era of mission creep where you're increasingly and actively settling for the pipe n slippers, where your 'smaller stuff' threshold has edged up and where your default is sociable sliding on fluffy waist high peelers rather than looking for something more challenging?

I probably would ride a mal a lot more in Wales.

Be way more fun sliding those baby food peelers on a log rather than trying to do a turn, surely?

But here, if I'm surfing the Pass I tend to ride a mal or a 6'0" MF foamy.

Otherwise, still looking to get barrelled cuz.

Improving, I think so. The hard part is bedding down the new skill set and making it consistent.

Well each to their own of course but I find standing still sliding across a wave only marginally more exciting than just standing still. A middle aged man turning in small waves is rarely elegant but nevertheless speaks of something vital, of a refusal to surrender to the gathering gloom

godsavethequeen wrote: ↑

Thu May 23, 2019 8:14 pm

A middle aged man turning in small waves is rarely elegant but nevertheless speaks of something vital, of a refusal to surrender to the gathering gloom

fcuk the gathering gloom. that shit is like dark matter, it pervades the universe and controls everything.

Learn to nose ride.

There's no need to get confrontational Beanpole, I'm not judging you. Stasis is perfectly acceptable in a man of your age

Nose riding isn't that easy to do well. The number of crap young hipsters proves that. I'm actually just contemplating whether with Winter coming it's time to move back onto the "midlength"

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Thu May 23, 2019 5:04 pm

godsavethequeen wrote: ↑

Wed May 22, 2019 8:23 pm

Your board reviews on Beachgrit seem to be characterised by large periods of struggle.

Lot of learning goes on when you are trying to figure something out.

Is there anything more kooky than a middle aged Welshman trying “out-core” everyone?

Dude gets fucken 40 waves before breakfast!
We are not worthy