Where did you surf today ?

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu May 23, 2019 10:23 am

Cranked wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 9:20 am
steve shearer wrote:
Wed May 22, 2019 7:32 pm
godsavethequeen wrote:
Wed May 22, 2019 7:13 pm
How is that incompatible with the above statement?
Just seems a bit incongruous with the timeline.

You've been on the same board for 3-4years but your surfing is improving because you are riding better boards?

Doesn't seem like a salient factor.
Steve, you of course know of Geoff McCoys belief that you should ride a board for years and only then can you get the best out of it.
So, after 4 years, GSTQ has now bonded with his board and that synergy of board and rider is now starting to peak.
Got a great long form interview/podcast with Geoff Cranked, I think you would like it.

I'm familiar with Geoff's theories, and it's my understanding he is referring to the design you should stick with through different iterations.

Godsave has been static but claimed better boards as a reason for improvement. That sounds contradictory to me.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu May 23, 2019 10:40 am

ajohnsen wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 10:19 am
I had a long conversation with Geoff McCoy many years ago and he totally sold me on his philosophy. I ended up with a 5'8" Nugget. I really liked it at first, but it lacked something and so the like faded away. Bit like a bell curve without the bell.
Haha!

I've only found nuggets to go in fast, powerful waves. The flat rockered 'double ender' goes really well in average oz conditions, it's similar to, for want of a better comparison, a hypto krypto - catches everything, fast as fcuk, and has range.
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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu May 23, 2019 10:47 am

steve shearer wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 10:23 am
Got a great long form interview/podcast with Geoff Cranked, I think you would like it.

I'm familiar with Geoff's theories, and it's my understanding he is referring to the design you should stick with through different iterations.
Yeah, agree, sticking with a design rather than a board.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu May 23, 2019 10:48 am

Sounds good. Where's the podcast?
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu May 23, 2019 10:54 am

hang on I'll find it.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by marauding mullet » Thu May 23, 2019 11:27 am

channels wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 7:08 am
marauding mullet wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 6:27 am
Hatchnam wrote:
Wed May 22, 2019 10:24 pm
but then again so does Adelaide sometimes.
Adelaide is up a gulf it’s flat unless there’s a storm
Legion calls your claim that Adelaide is flat and raises you Perth.
No Adelaide doesn’t get swell, thanks to Kangaroo Island, Perth does at least get swell
Drive an hour south of Adelaide however, different story.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Thu May 23, 2019 11:29 am

On the flip side of Geoff’s mantra of glueing yourself to one board, you’re also limiting your spectrum of suitable boards for the varied conditions, and locking your neuro/muscular pattern into something very set (limited).
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu May 23, 2019 5:04 pm

godsavethequeen wrote:
Wed May 22, 2019 8:23 pm


Your board reviews on Beachgrit seem to be characterised by large periods of struggle.

More of a journey than a struggle. Latest review the board came a lot easier.

Lot of learning goes on when you are trying to figure something out.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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godsavetheking
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by godsavetheking » Thu May 23, 2019 7:44 pm

So how about you then? Still improving? I remember you saying before that you tend to go with a mal rather than a groveller in smaller stuff. Has this ushered in a new era of mission creep where you're increasingly and actively settling for the pipe n slippers, where your 'smaller stuff' threshold has edged up and where your default is sociable sliding on fluffy waist high peelers rather than looking for something more challenging?
Beanpole wrote:
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To tell the truth eggs are one thing I avoid buying when I’m grocery shopping. So you may say I’m an intermittent egg buyer who usually lets someone else buy them.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu May 23, 2019 7:58 pm

I probably would ride a mal a lot more in Wales.

Be way more fun sliding those baby food peelers on a log rather than trying to do a turn, surely?

But here, if I'm surfing the Pass I tend to ride a mal or a 6'0" MF foamy.

Otherwise, still looking to get barrelled cuz.

Improving, I think so. The hard part is bedding down the new skill set and making it consistent.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by godsavetheking » Thu May 23, 2019 8:14 pm

Well each to their own of course but I find standing still sliding across a wave only marginally more exciting than just standing still. A middle aged man turning in small waves is rarely elegant but nevertheless speaks of something vital, of a refusal to surrender to the gathering gloom
Beanpole wrote:
Mon Sep 04, 2023 10:48 pm
To tell the truth eggs are one thing I avoid buying when I’m grocery shopping. So you may say I’m an intermittent egg buyer who usually lets someone else buy them.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by black duck » Thu May 23, 2019 8:19 pm

godsavethequeen wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 8:14 pm
A middle aged man turning in small waves is rarely elegant but nevertheless speaks of something vital, of a refusal to surrender to the gathering gloom
fcuk the gathering gloom. that shit is like dark matter, it pervades the universe and controls everything.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Thu May 23, 2019 8:21 pm

Learn to nose ride.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by godsavetheking » Thu May 23, 2019 8:24 pm

There's no need to get confrontational Beanpole, I'm not judging you. Stasis is perfectly acceptable in a man of your age
Beanpole wrote:
Mon Sep 04, 2023 10:48 pm
To tell the truth eggs are one thing I avoid buying when I’m grocery shopping. So you may say I’m an intermittent egg buyer who usually lets someone else buy them.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Thu May 23, 2019 8:39 pm

Nose riding isn't that easy to do well. The number of crap young hipsters proves that. I'm actually just contemplating whether with Winter coming it's time to move back onto the "midlength"
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Thu May 23, 2019 9:16 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Thu May 23, 2019 5:04 pm
godsavethequeen wrote:
Wed May 22, 2019 8:23 pm


Your board reviews on Beachgrit seem to be characterised by large periods of struggle.


Lot of learning goes on when you are trying to figure something out.
:shock:
Erase.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Thu May 23, 2019 9:29 pm

Is there anything more kooky than a middle aged Welshman trying “out-core” everyone?
Sniff wrote:
Fri Feb 16, 2024 11:39 am
Not enough for a full handbeak
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Thu May 23, 2019 9:43 pm

Dude gets fucken 40 waves before breakfast!
We are not worthy
Erase.

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