Where did you surf today ?

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Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun May 12, 2019 7:41 am

There was a kid out there yesterday with a tube up his nose taped to his cheek. Not the sort of surf you would advise someone wearing that to go out in. Some of the regular sets were closing out from Bronte to Tama.

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The Mighty Sunbird
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Sun May 12, 2019 8:21 am

Hip Hip!
Erase.

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun May 12, 2019 8:42 am

How was it when you were out, The Mighty?

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Sun May 12, 2019 9:24 am

Looks like the sets would have been fun on the parmenter, Steve. You take it?
Looked shit for the short boarders.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by The Mighty Sunbird » Sun May 12, 2019 10:17 am

Best close out in town!
Erase.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sun May 12, 2019 10:45 am

No Buddy, I did not.

Rode my 5'10" Bonzer Octafish for the early, probably the least suitable board in the quiver, but a board I've been really enjoying riding and even when it's way outside its pay grade I still really enjoy the super fast flying/drifty feeling and that 5th gear Bonzer effect.
Got an insane wave on it before the sun came up and ended up way the fcuk down past the hut. It had that full flying on ball bearings feeling to it.

Came in and got my new 6'6" Desert Storm and went back out, with the goal of picking off some set waves. Unfortunately it went really weird and slow but I still managed a couple and that board felt insane.

You get a go-out?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Sun May 12, 2019 10:55 am

Went out at fat crock on the 6'6. Bit of a crock but got a couple of good ones off the bank outside spotx.
Then I got a coffee from sharpes and checked out the point. The carpark was imitating bronte.
From that POV, a nice big single from out the back would be what I would've wanted to be on, pity I don't have one.
Tide was too low for the beachies I wanted to surf this morn.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sun May 12, 2019 11:04 am

down the inside was pretty good too.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Sun May 12, 2019 11:08 am

Pretty fun here today, clean, swell fizzled a bit but still pulses of good 4-5’ energy with slow periods in between. Soooo many kooks.

Rode a 5’91/2” Webber, a tuned in version of that Creature double concave bottom and deck board, really interesting, a heap of bite and surfs vertical curves so well, a very precise sweet spot, the more energy in the wave the better it feels, I gotta ride it more to really get a grip on what’s happening with it.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sun May 12, 2019 11:37 am

It's funny how tuning into a board can be such a mind fcuk, or not.

I've ridden lots of high performance shortboards in the last 18 months, some of which I've tuned into straight away, some of which have been confounding until I figured it out and some which just remained mysteries.

A key factor seems to be control: being able to put the board where you want it to harness speed and apply power.

That Bonzer felt drifty as fcuk soon as I stood up but I knew how much pressure I could apply and that if I got it up to the top third of the wave I could let it fly.

The Desert Storm felt like a comfy slipper from the first turn on the first wave, despite being about as far away from a short wide bonzer as you could get.

Both boards seemed to be superior to the modern HPSB , limited by rail line and rocker on a lined up 6ft Point wave with a slopey face and a lot of turn angles and drive lines required that were contra the modern shortboards natural lines.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Sun May 12, 2019 11:59 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 11:08 am
Soooo many kooks.
Crowds are driving me nuts. I’m having a real love/hate relationship with surfing at the moment. Struggling with motivation. My area has exploded with people. At dawn, the waters packed like it’s 10am. I just look at it and go uurrgghh.

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun May 12, 2019 12:16 pm

Just got back from having a look. Saw junior get an okay barrel between Bronte and Tama.....and a wicked paddle back out. Way too many close outs and super crowded. Might have a go out at Bondi at high tide. Should have gone south today.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Sun May 12, 2019 3:48 pm

BA wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 11:59 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Sun May 12, 2019 11:08 am
Soooo many kooks.
Crowds are driving me nuts. I’m having a real love/hate relationship with surfing at the moment. Struggling with motivation. My area has exploded with people. At dawn, the waters packed like it’s 10am. I just look at it and go uurrgghh.
Well normally I am v much live and let live, they're not taking my waves anyway, but today they were so in the way. Three really excellent solid waves came through while I was out, I got all three, and on all three, five or six idiots paddled directly in front of me at the wave base.

I am afraid I talked to the last lot a little bit.

It started pre surf, which it never does! Some full on super kook, like an adult learner with a significant bank balance by the look of his expensive leisure wear and his athleisure clad chick, was standing at the lookout at Newport this morning, I jogged over to watch while I got changed. The guy catches my eye, and says in one of those jocular we're-all-surfers-together sorts of ways, "It's word-perfect Peak."

Like making the Call. I've never seen this guy and he's telling me about a spot I've surfed for almost 50 years.

I'm like, "Word-perfect Peak, eh?" In a tone of, yeah thanks for telling me, I would never have been able to assess the conditions without your advice.

Thank fcuk one of my mates rolled up right then.

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Legion
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Legion » Sun May 12, 2019 4:10 pm

...
Last edited by Legion on Sun Aug 04, 2019 2:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Sun May 12, 2019 4:12 pm

:lol:

Funny you should say that. A few weeks back I was up there and two hipster looking blokes were checking it out. One said “it looks like old school peak”. His mate who wasn’t watching the surf, just staring at his phone went, “yeah, it does”. My Mrs. said, “what’s old school peak mean?”. I said, “who knows”.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Sun May 12, 2019 4:53 pm

Old school peak is when I come out for an hour and catch every single fcuking wave.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Sun May 12, 2019 4:53 pm

But I would never do that.

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Sun May 12, 2019 5:03 pm

Aaaah, maybe I missed the start and end of the conversation. “Carroll’s out there, it looks like old school peak, let’s go to Avalon”.

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