RealSurf Surfers' Forum

How was it when you were out, The Mighty?

Looks like the sets would have been fun on the parmenter, Steve. You take it?
Looked shit for the short boarders.

Best close out in town!

No Buddy, I did not.

Rode my 5'10" Bonzer Octafish for the early, probably the least suitable board in the quiver, but a board I've been really enjoying riding and even when it's way outside its pay grade I still really enjoy the super fast flying/drifty feeling and that 5th gear Bonzer effect.
Got an insane wave on it before the sun came up and ended up way the fcuk down past the hut. It had that full flying on ball bearings feeling to it.

Came in and got my new 6'6" Desert Storm and went back out, with the goal of picking off some set waves. Unfortunately it went really weird and slow but I still managed a couple and that board felt insane.

You get a go-out?

Went out at fat crock on the 6'6. Bit of a crock but got a couple of good ones off the bank outside spotx.
Then I got a coffee from sharpes and checked out the point. The carpark was imitating bronte.
From that POV, a nice big single from out the back would be what I would've wanted to be on, pity I don't have one.
Tide was too low for the beachies I wanted to surf this morn.

down the inside was pretty good too.

Pretty fun here today, clean, swell fizzled a bit but still pulses of good 4-5’ energy with slow periods in between. Soooo many kooks.

Rode a 5’91/2” Webber, a tuned in version of that Creature double concave bottom and deck board, really interesting, a heap of bite and surfs vertical curves so well, a very precise sweet spot, the more energy in the wave the better it feels, I gotta ride it more to really get a grip on what’s happening with it.

It's funny how tuning into a board can be such a mind fcuk, or not.

I've ridden lots of high performance shortboards in the last 18 months, some of which I've tuned into straight away, some of which have been confounding until I figured it out and some which just remained mysteries.

A key factor seems to be control: being able to put the board where you want it to harness speed and apply power.

That Bonzer felt drifty as fcuk soon as I stood up but I knew how much pressure I could apply and that if I got it up to the top third of the wave I could let it fly.

The Desert Storm felt like a comfy slipper from the first turn on the first wave, despite being about as far away from a short wide bonzer as you could get.

Both boards seemed to be superior to the modern HPSB , limited by rail line and rocker on a lined up 6ft Point wave with a slopey face and a lot of turn angles and drive lines required that were contra the modern shortboards natural lines.

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Sun May 12, 2019 11:08 am

Soooo many kooks.

Crowds are driving me nuts. I’m having a real love/hate relationship with surfing at the moment. Struggling with motivation. My area has exploded with people. At dawn, the waters packed like it’s 10am. I just look at it and go uurrgghh.

Just got back from having a look. Saw junior get an okay barrel between Bronte and Tama.....and a wicked paddle back out. Way too many close outs and super crowded. Might have a go out at Bondi at high tide. Should have gone south today.

BA wrote: ↑

Sun May 12, 2019 11:59 am

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Sun May 12, 2019 11:08 am

Soooo many kooks.

Crowds are driving me nuts. I’m having a real love/hate relationship with surfing at the moment. Struggling with motivation. My area has exploded with people. At dawn, the waters packed like it’s 10am. I just look at it and go uurrgghh.

Well normally I am v much live and let live, they're not taking my waves anyway, but today they were so in the way. Three really excellent solid waves came through while I was out, I got all three, and on all three, five or six idiots paddled directly in front of me at the wave base.

I am afraid I talked to the last lot a little bit.

It started pre surf, which it never does! Some full on super kook, like an adult learner with a significant bank balance by the look of his expensive leisure wear and his athleisure clad chick, was standing at the lookout at Newport this morning, I jogged over to watch while I got changed. The guy catches my eye, and says in one of those jocular we're-all-surfers-together sorts of ways, "It's word-perfect Peak."

Like making the Call. I've never seen this guy and he's telling me about a spot I've surfed for almost 50 years.

I'm like, "Word-perfect Peak, eh?" In a tone of, yeah thanks for telling me, I would never have been able to assess the conditions without your advice.

Thank fcuk one of my mates rolled up right then.

...

Funny you should say that. A few weeks back I was up there and two hipster looking blokes were checking it out. One said “it looks like old school peak”. His mate who wasn’t watching the surf, just staring at his phone went, “yeah, it does”. My Mrs. said, “what’s old school peak mean?”. I said, “who knows”.

Old school peak is when I come out for an hour and catch every single fcuking wave.

But I would never do that.

Aaaah, maybe I missed the start and end of the conversation. “Carroll’s out there, it looks like old school peak, let’s go to Avalon”.

You would never get these sort of problems at Bondi. Conditions seem to be irrelevant to most of the learners. They just spend 15 minutes stretching and then paddle out.

Fcuking hell. I was going to paddle out in the corner this arvo but went out in front of the skate park. Bad move... after relentless duck diving I ended up over there by the time I got out anyway.

Kook.