RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Fell asleep at 10.30 last night. Scored the not so early 7.00am sesh at a northerly protected headland, just me and two mates for 2 hours before some crew started to filter down.
Pleasant indeed.

20 min only to north maroubra thanks to a clear run on the M5. Body surfed the wedgy little left on the inside bank.

Yep, body surfing was the go today.

Bronte has a wicked double to triple up Shorey at the moment. Definitely need timing to get in and out of the water. Contemplating whether to go for another dip after an early post NYE nap.

I admit to stealing the kids big bodyboard the last few days when they get sick of it. Lots of fun

That's the spirit, beery. No stigma.

petulance wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 31, 2018 7:24 pm

the prawn wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 31, 2018 12:26 pm

The water temp felt a tad warmer, mind. Success!

Nope, it was pretty cold south of the Gong. On the bright side, I must have caught the most waves of any session that I ever had in Oz.

I recall three times when my surfing suddenly took huge leaps forward. Each was proceeded by a long period of frustration with no real progress, and then a day of good surf when I got 15 - 20 great waves and things really clicked.

The first was Scotts Head, backside for me but a day in the early 1970s when I shared it with only one other surfer for an hour then another 2 hours with no-one else out.

The next was Green Island in the late seventies, and it was several days mid week one autumn, a couple out early morning, all gone by 9am and just me until I couldn't paddle any more, or my feet just too numb from the cold.

The last was Airport Lefts in September 1982, mostly by myself day after day.

I've had lots of good sessions since, but nothing as good as those three.

the prawn wrote: ↑

Mon Dec 31, 2018 7:39 pm

Are you southerer than Ulladulla?

Not as far south as Nowra.

the prawn wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 01, 2019 1:25 pm

Yep, body surfing was the go today.

Went for a late at the local with about 20 minutes of light left. Snagged three quick ones and was very happy with that.

Cranked wrote: ↑

Tue Jan 01, 2019 6:52 pm

I recall three times when my surfing suddenly took huge leaps forward. Each was proceeded by a long period of frustration with no real progress, and then a day of good surf when I got 15 - 20 great waves and things really clicked.

I don't know about the huge leap forward but the long period of frustration summed up the majority of the last year. It was good catching waves that I wasn't used to. Actually, make that it was good catching any waves.

I caught more waves and had longer rides the last week or so than the rest of 2018 put together.

Exact opposite for me!

There's nice swell up here. Has been for a week or more.

Perfectly combined with a due east wind and bluebottles.

I'll wait.

I've seen the odd good looking waves in the background when a few non surfers I know have posted holiday snaps.

It's been shithouse, actually unsurfable. But that's Xmas, I'm not surprised. I've resorted to jogging, dire.

It's also very busy. Next week should see a decent chunk of suckers back at work.

.

Really pushing the limits of crap surf the last while. Lucky I had a good run up through Xmas. Sun has been intense.

Surfed a mal for the 1st time in ages, every time i was on a wave, i wished i was on a shortie. Will keep it for point sessions.

Curly again. Shit again.