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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:13 pm
by Nick Carroll
Had a lot of fun at home out the peak today, this arvo that is. Super low tide, lowest of the year, and a little SE swell under a moderate NE seabreeze.

These very traditional near Christmas conditions rang so many bells in my memory, and it must have done the same for a lot of the crew, because quite a few of us found our ways out at the same moment, both the Carroll brothers, the Maccas, Harry, Aaron Reilly, several others, a little wing of the Newport family swapping waves and good wishes. A bit of talk about the year now vanishing, a lot of laughs in between waves.

I was riding the banksy 6’9”, a board suited to much more resonant conditions than these but it felt so good, flowing from turn to turn. I was feeling so much pleasure from this surf that after one lovely little left, only 45 minutes in, I decided to pull the plug. There was a half exposed sandbar between the peak and the shoreline and as I wandered across it, nudging the board along by its tail into the little washes filtering over the sand, I experienced a moment of perfect peace, everything felt connected: memory, presence, the light, the wind, the water, the board half afloat on a ripple ahead of me, the sand rising toward the half-dune.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:28 pm
by tootr
Well I went for a body bash in clean and shapely baby food. With a handplane.
And had a go on my daughters booger.
So there.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:29 pm
by marauding mullet
Thanks NC, a nice little image to keep me sane til I get back from the middle of nowhere. Throwing the camping gear and board in and going somewhere quiet

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 7:08 pm
by buddy
I did my first resistance type workout in a long time a cpl days ago then on the beers last night.
Feeling stiff and sore today and figured I'd be real unco if I tried to surf and didn't want to do that to my new board so didn't bother,

After reading that, I fear I'm on a trajectory to becoming the next beanpole.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 7:19 pm
by Beanpole
I surf more than half the cnuts on here, buddy.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 7:20 pm
by buddy
Yes, but the style of post I mean.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 7:48 pm
by Beanpole
Just up your thread bombing.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 7:58 pm
by Cranked
marauding mullet wrote:
Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:29 pm
Thanks NC, a nice little image to keep me sane til I get back from the middle of nowhere. Throwing the camping gear and board in and going somewhere quiet
I think the south coast of WA, nearly 2000k of it, must be the most under utilised surf destination on the planet. I've struggled to find anyone to surf with on the half dozen times I've gone on surf trips along it.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 8:05 pm
by black duck
Cranked wrote:
Mon Dec 24, 2018 7:58 pm
marauding mullet wrote:
Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:29 pm
Thanks NC, a nice little image to keep me sane til I get back from the middle of nowhere. Throwing the camping gear and board in and going somewhere quiet
I think the south coast of WA, nearly 2000k of it, must be the most under utilised surf destination on the planet. I've struggled to find anyone to surf with on the half dozen times I've gone on surf trips along it.
Why do you think that is Cranked? I have some ideas but have never been so it would be good to get some first hand analysis.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 8:43 pm
by channels
I spent a bit of time sniffing around that area and it's hard work.

Lots of wind, always and it can easily change direction turning spots on and off.

Swell can jump quickly. Remember checking Ocean Beach at Denmark around 10am and it was dead flat and checking again around 3pm and it jumped to 8 foot plus.

Isolated, lots of driving to check spots.

Wildlife. The ocean is alive down there.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 9:10 pm
by Cranked
black duck wrote:
Mon Dec 24, 2018 8:05 pm
Cranked wrote:
Mon Dec 24, 2018 7:58 pm
marauding mullet wrote:
Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:29 pm
Thanks NC, a nice little image to keep me sane til I get back from the middle of nowhere. Throwing the camping gear and board in and going somewhere quiet
I think the south coast of WA, nearly 2000k of it, must be the most under utilised surf destination on the planet. I've struggled to find anyone to surf with on the half dozen times I've gone on surf trips along it.
Why do you think that is Cranked? I have some ideas but have never been so it would be good to get some first hand analysis.
I reckon the main reason is that there just isn't many people once you leave the Margaret River area: for a 1500km section of coast there's Denmark 2500, Albany 30,000 and Esperence 10,000. And its a long way from Perth. This also means there's no infrastucture to support an itinerant surfer population

I guess sometime in the future it will start to happen, as unlike the west coast there's no off shore reef blocking the swell and there's plenty of headland/bay geography to take advantage of various wind and swell directions. Also for me now there's that bit of fear about sharks, that in the past you could push aside as there were no surfer shark deaths in WA until Brad Smith was taken (10 years ago?).

Maybe Legion and the other WA guys can provide better info than me.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 9:40 pm
by black duck
Nick Carroll wrote:
Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:13 pm
Had a lot of fun at home out the peak today, this arvo that is. Super low tide, lowest of the year, and a little SE swell under a moderate NE seabreeze.

These very traditional near Christmas conditions rang so many bells in my memory, and it must have done the same for a lot of the crew, because quite a few of us found our ways out at the same moment, both the Carroll brothers, the Maccas, Harry, Aaron Reilly, several others, a little wing of the Newport family swapping waves and good wishes. A bit of talk about the year now vanishing, a lot of laughs in between waves.

I was riding the banksy 6’9”, a board suited to much more resonant conditions than these but it felt so good, flowing from turn to turn. I was feeling so much pleasure from this surf that after one lovely little left, only 45 minutes in, I decided to pull the plug. There was a half exposed sandbar between the peak and the shoreline and as I wandered across it, nudging the board along by its tail into the little washes filtering over the sand, I experienced a moment of perfect peace, everything felt connected: memory, presence, the light, the wind, the water, the board half afloat on a ripple ahead of me, the sand rising toward the half-dune.
Just saving because.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 10:53 pm
by marauding mullet
My guess, it’s a long way from anywhere and you generally don’t drive away from waves to find waves

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 11:21 pm
by alakaboo
Caught a 17s wave today, yes I counted, including a little cover-up. On a surf ski.
Part of a crazy solo session, way offshore, and very windy and sharky.

Also got some fun 2ft point waves this afternoon with a local crew that was just frothing and in an awesome mood. Hooting and high fives and shared waves.
Half of them were a bit pissy, having some sort of contest where you had to dress like a pirate and do hand stands.
Was trying my egg as a 2+1, didn't really gel with it after running a single for the last 3 years. Still lots of fun.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:29 am
by jimmy
I surfed today in really ordinary, onshore two foot slop. But it was fun because after an Xmas catchup with Crabmeat I was unable to leave the house yesterday. So today I felt like a legend until I realised that I needed to buy the meat, seafood and groceries.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2018 8:27 am
by buddy
Surfed the spot I mainly surf this morning. 2 hours just me and 2 mates, not perfect but some fun clean waves and some hollow sections.
A few people came out at the end and more groups lined up on the beach so the next good one I went in.
Was still looking good though.
Just as I was walking up the beach, the shark copter starts circling and sounding the alarm and in the most hideous nasal accent a woman screaming through the megaphone GREAT WHITE SHARK! repeatedly.

If it wasn't school holidays they wouldn't even be checking.
And if it was cloudy or pre 7.30am they probably couldn't even see anything.
Just luck of the draw if they choose to bite really as they're there pretty regularly.

Oh well, probably freaked the group of goldcoasters that had just started paddling out from surfing there in the future.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2018 9:12 am
by Nick Carroll
More swell energy today! Rip bowl rights! So many whackable sections.

Re: Where did you surf today ?

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2018 9:15 am
by Nick Carroll
I’m pretty sure someone is going to drown today.