RealSurf Surfers' Forum

So does Bondi

Playful looking day there Iggs.

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 19, 2018 3:55 pm

This was just now. South swell magnet just south of Sydney.

Waist to Chest high, infrequent. Still kinda fun. Enough push and room to complete a cutback on.

Clean babyfood, love that.

would be better if it was 5 foot bigger.

crabmeat thompson wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 20, 2018 5:54 am

would be better if it was 5 foot bigger.

That's the length of one of Iggy's arms.

It was a glorious day's surfing yesterday and the kJs were an accurate measure of just why it was so. To give an example, at Bondi today the prediction is 15kJ, yesterday at ulus there were a few moments when it hit 5000kJ. The small band of surfers who took on the bombie know exactly what 5000kJs of ocean power feels like as they were forced to duck dive when caught inside by the sets.

Those waves were over 300 times more powerful than those at Bondi. Surfing deserves an honest measure of the power that surfers engage with.

The current unhelpful measure used by many surfers is not even honest about the actual height of the wave - choosing to arbitrarily halve it - let alone a meaningful measure of the actual power of a wave.

By that old gauge Bondi is 1' and Ulu is 10', the difference merely a factor of 10 rather than the factor of over 300 when the bone-jaring shock of the actual wave energy is used.

Watching the dramas of the day unfold from the various cliff top vantages was a priviledge and exciting. We could see the step laddering sets rolling in 20k out to sea, see the moment when the small band of surfers first caught sight of it and started paddling out to sea, then we would grone and gringe as the they were battered unmercilessly and swept a kilometer up the coast.

Every now and then though someone would catch a wave and we would all be cheering the little ant like surfer moving, seemingly so slowly, along those huge faces.

Not a great swell compared to the last big one, too south, outside corner and padang never really fired, but still great to watch from the safety of the cliffs.

Joules are a unit of energy, not power.


**ducks and runs**

Just dumming it down for the masses boo

Energy is a source of potential power.

Problem is Cranked, 5000kj means absolutely nothing to me or anybody else .
Was it 10foot on the sets?12? 15?

Look at Magic Seaweed. The report will say between 7-13 foot.

Magic seaweed lol

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 20, 2018 8:28 am

Problem is Cranked, 5000kj means absolutely nothing to me or anybody else .
Was it 10foot on the sets?12? 15?

Excuse me, Steve. It makes perfect sense to me.

Bullshit Beany.

How big was Ulus yesterday then? Using nothing but Kj to work "backwards in your mind".

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 20, 2018 8:39 am

Magic seaweed lol

How hopeless is it

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 20, 2018 8:44 am

Bullshit Beany.

How big was Ulus yesterday then? Using nothing but Kj to work "backwards in your mind".

Faces or Hawaiian?

Too big for beanpole.

I think it is just fine for cranky and beanpole to use kj, like I don't really expect them to understand anything about what I get up to in the surf zone either. Cranked is into Astron Zots with quad set ups, I wouldn't ride that unless it was the only board in the world, and Beany really seems to resent anything that happened in surfing since about 1974, especially anyone who actually took surfing as far as they could in that time, which sorta eliminates me from the picture. It's fcuken fascinating really how different we all are. The only uninteresting thing about it is that we are all men.