Where did you surf today ?

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Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Feb 23, 2018 9:16 am

Didn't catch me out.
It's still kinda slamming btw.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:35 am

Gita continues to be a mind-fcuker.

It's straight onshore and 3ft horrible junk here.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:30 am

Hrumph. Fcuk those short period swells! Next week I'm off to the land where a decent swell has a period of 16 to 21 seconds.

These are what swells should be, nice even lines, 10-20 waves in a set, carefully step laddering up from 3' to 8'.

And in between sets, a nice lull of 15-40 minutes so you can have a good chat with your mates, or paddle out without getting your hair wet.

Sun always shines, wind is offshore. Water above 28 degrees.

Sorry, I'll shut up now.
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Legion
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Legion » Fri Feb 23, 2018 12:17 pm

You were doing so well until "a lull of 15-40 minutes". WTF?

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Fri Feb 23, 2018 12:44 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:35 am
Gita continues to be a mind-fcuker.

It's straight onshore and 3ft horrible junk here.
50 mins ago at greenhills nulla (pics from biarms digital).
Single fin domain. Wish I could get to it this second.

Image

Image

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Over55yrs
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Over55yrs » Fri Feb 23, 2018 1:04 pm

And 2 people drowned/missing overnight at Maroubra presumably doing a evening swim..........................and much smaller and windblown where I was this morning.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Fri Feb 23, 2018 3:38 pm

Legion wrote:
Fri Feb 23, 2018 12:17 pm
You were doing so well until "a lull of 15-40 minutes". WTF?
I don't know the physics of of it, but the longer the period the longer the lulls, but also the longer the period swells have more waves in the sets. But hey, you got all day, 6am to 7pm.

Maybe 'boo can fill us in on the cause.

I like it though, catch a set wave and just wait a bit and you can paddle out easy. No need to thrash yourself to exhaustion trying to get back out, just be patient. 40 minutes is for the really big, long period swells, usually about 15 mins for 4'-6'
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Legion
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Legion » Fri Feb 23, 2018 3:44 pm

I'm familiar with the same swells. But I go nuts if it's even 15 minutes. If it was 45 minutes that's insane.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:00 pm

It can be hilarious. Surfers arrive at ulus, perfect 2', paddle out, catch a few waves. Time goes by... crowd increases.

On the cliffs you can see the sets 10 k away. First 3' comes, crowd moves out a bit, 4 footer on the way, paddle further out. They can't see what's on the way or they would be paddling in, 8-10 footers stacked to the horizon

Chaos ensures. A couple of guys on 9 footers catch a few waves, everyone else retires. The lineup is nearly empty and the whole thing repeats all day
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:16 pm

Cranked wrote:
Fri Feb 23, 2018 3:38 pm
Legion wrote:
Fri Feb 23, 2018 12:17 pm
You were doing so well until "a lull of 15-40 minutes". WTF?
I don't know the physics of of it, but the longer the period the longer the lulls, but also the longer the period swells have more waves in the sets. But hey, you got all day, 6am to 7pm.

Maybe 'boo can fill us in on the cause.

I like it though, catch a set wave and just wait a bit and you can paddle out easy. No need to thrash yourself to exhaustion trying to get back out, just be patient. 40 minutes is for the really big, long period swells, usually about 15 mins for 4'-6'
Longer period means they're traveling quicker. They outstrip the lower period swells in the trip from source to impact.

Part of why they travel faster is that they travel in "trains", like cyclists in a peloton.

Most of the power in a solid swell event is in the mid to lower period stuff, but a fair bit of that dissipates before it makes landfall, when the trip between source and impact is as long as it often is in Bali. Like you will almost never see the 10-11sec stuff, but if you could, you'd see a shit load more waves per hour. Like I'm doing right now in Sydney.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:26 pm

That is the phenomenon known as swell decay.

A somewhat mysterious process that sometimes defies the algorithms, especially in places like Puerto Escondido.
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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Fri Feb 23, 2018 5:17 pm

I like this about the Indian Ocean swells
The Indian Ocean is mostly dominated by swell waves generated predominantly under the extreme windy conditions prevailing over the Southern Ocean and southern Indian Ocean.

The ocean surface displays a combination of wide range of gravity waves with varying amplitudes and frequencies. Generation and growth of such gravity waves are primarily dependent on wind velocity,wind duration and fetch. However, even in the absence of significant local wind, one can observe a collection of waves of very large wavelength on the sea surface. Even in a rough sea dominated by waves of small wavelength generated by local winds, there exist waves of large wave length. These are swells which have propagated out of their generating area to the distant coasts without significant attenuation. Observation shows that local winds and waves have very little effect on the size and progress of the swell waves. These waves pass through the sea practically uninterrupted by local effects. Once the swells leave the stormy areas their wave height initially decreases due to attenuation.Afterwards, the steepness reduces significantly to an extent where it can remain independent of the local wind effects.


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“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:45 pm

I like that about the Pacific too. But I like more the Pacific's tendency to be kinda violent and dynamic.

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:01 am

Crowds like flies on a fresh shit this morning.
crabmeat thompson wrote:
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trust me. there's nothing more satisfying than wanking out a load into the dry dust while the surrounding forest and wildlife burn to the ground around you.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:57 am

It never ceases to amaze me when it's a ruffled 2-3 ft hardly anyone surfs but a few decent days and every cnut is dusting off his board for his one of five surfs for the year.
Rashness is the faithful, but unhappy parent of misfortune. R. Buckminster Fuller

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:40 pm

Thud wrote:
Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:57 am
It never ceases to amaze me when it's a ruffled 2-3 ft hardly anyone surfs but a few decent days and every cnut is dusting off his board for his one of five surfs for the year.
really, seems exactly the opposite to me

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Sat Feb 24, 2018 1:04 pm

There you go.
Rashness is the faithful, but unhappy parent of misfortune. R. Buckminster Fuller

channels
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Sat Feb 24, 2018 1:07 pm

Fair chance Nick’s version of a decent day is slightly different to Thud’s.

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