RealSurf Surfers' Forum

After nearly three weeks of good surf the swell has been dropping. Hopefully it has reached its nadir today.

Expecting a continuation of head high at the small wave spots, I went out before dawn for a walk up the coast. Got nothing. Looking on the bright side though, I do need a rest.

Knocked a fin out of my board on a rock yesterday at low tide. Luckily no damage to the box or surrounds, so just swapped one over from another board.

I guess thats sort of and advantage of FCS2. I think?

So i surfed - and it was average - the waves and my gimpy arm. Could paddle, but without any strength. And then the pop up. Wow. It was like learning to surf again. Got roasted by some turd who watched me pitch on a set wave. I told him i'd been out of the water ten weeks and i hoped it would happen to him and all his mates. He laughed. Mystics is so unforgiving. No significant pain, except for one where i dug deep on a paddle and my arm bent properly - bicep tendonitis cured; but boy, it was a stinger.

Going to have another go tomorrow. Think i'll keep my clothes on.

Mystics is the place to get to pitched that’s for sure. No room for
error.

Surfed greenhills. Long period swell lines with lotsa shutdowns but still a few shouldering peaks in the mix if you got in position when the sets came through. Surfed a chunky old 6”11 battle-axe pintail. Early roll in and straight down the line.

picture upload sites

Classy!

It goes like a bullet down the line in big walled up groundswells. A few years ago I surfed Bells beach at double overhead on that thing. It was like a religious experience. Minimal input on my part. Board felt like it was surfing itself.

Early afternoon down the coast, one of the better sets

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sat May 19, 2018 5:14 pm

Mystics is the place to get to pitched that’s for sure. No room for
error.

Surfed greenhills. Long period swell lines with lotsa shutdowns but still a few shouldering peaks in the mix if you got in position when the sets came through. Surfed a chunky old 6”11 battle-axe pintail. Early roll in and straight down the line.

picture upload sites

I'd like to see a pic of it upside down to get a sense of the rocker. Looks almost non existent from the top but a lot of those old boards hid rocker with heaps of paddle friendly foam.

It’s got some rocker. Handles steep drops ok. Loads of foam up front and thins right out through the tail. Initially I bought it cheap just to do up as an art project and wasn’t going to surf it. But curiousity got the better of me.

Yep, typical user friendly old style. Before they discovered the benefits of tail rocker , but plenty of foam where it can do a lot of good. Out paddles any short board out there.

Limited turn angles, very stripped back and basic type of surfing. But it does what it does well. That is, gets in early and goes like a bullet straight down the line. Still has a lot of bite and sensitivity in the tail end, for cutting down/back on and adjusting your line.

Guessing it’s circa ‘75 ? Or perhaps earlier?

Could be but no legrope deck plugs in 75. May have been added later.
My rough guess is early/ mid eighties. It looks to be in good nick.

black duck wrote: ↑

Sat May 19, 2018 6:05 pm

Early afternoon down the coast, one of the better sets

that is the wonkiest horizon line i've ever seen. please be better mate, one day we want to show all this to our kids and tell them how we ruled the interwebs with an iron fist, when Don made all our dreams here pozible.

but with those horizon lines it's going to be a hard sell.

Your'e right CT, it's disgraceful. When i use a phone, all photographic discipline flies away.

aren't you an architect BD?

yes, that's why it's so disgraceful. Straight lines are my business.

Fcuk the island was good today. Size and angle were just right.

That comment on the island brings back fond memories for me duck.

The oceans gone very calm here.

i snuck into the comp zone this arvo and jagged a few before a fierce cramp sent me cowering in.

black duck wrote: ↑

Sun May 20, 2018 4:31 pm

Your'e right CT, it's disgraceful. When i use a phone, all photographic discipline flies away.

no excuse bd
shot with trusty 4 yr old boomer favourite, iphone5c.