RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Fifteen foot sets I read. But not sure if that's true.

Thud wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 25, 2018 8:53 pm

Fifteen foot sets I read. But not sure if that's true.

Mainstream media called it that.
Would be 15foot faces or around 8ft Iggy.

buddy wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 24, 2018 7:14 pm

Cranked wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 24, 2018 7:08 pm

Jae Haydon drowns in surfing accident at Bali’s famous Padang Padang?

No, I don't leave until Monday.

This report is strange:

Jae Haydon, 34, from Woonona near Wollongong, was surfing at Padang Padang Beach, one of Bali’s most famous surf spots, on Monday morning (Indonesian time) when he was reportedly knocked off his board by a wave.

Friends became increasingly alarmed after a broken surfboard identical to Mr Haydon’s, later washed up at the nearby Uluwatu beach.

Huh? It seems a bit weird that no-one got involved at the time. There's always surfers in the water who pay attention and people on the cliffs watching.

From what I read it was ulu and 2 guys took his leash off and tried to get him in on their boards but got hammered and lost him?

Yeah he was on the Bombie. Paddled out with a few others on small small boards for that day.

He got snotted by a set and two guys got to him, one a friend of mine who explained it a bit later. They saw the board tombstoning and dragged the guy up by his legrope. Tried to hold him but lost him under another large set.

I think maybe the newspaper accounts etc were a bit muddled, it's hard to get clear information on events like that even at the best of times.

One of the punters on Swellnet said 5 surfers have died in that run of swell. He was having a major crack at the life guards. I doubt they'd be anywhere near Hawaiian standards. Thinking about it I've never seen an Indo life guard. But what could anyone do in those circumstances. Know your limitations.

Cranked you'd know better than most, I've noticed when it gets heavy duty a lot of the Indo surfers are too smart to get involved. Maybe I'm imagining this.

Also caught up with some of the Daryl Eastlakes stories. Bit of a character to say the least.

Bali remains a third world country. The guys hanging up the top of the cliffs waving flags aren't going to mount a major rescue operation.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 26, 2018 2:18 pm

Bali remains a third world country. The guys hanging up the top of the cliffs waving flags aren't going to mount a major rescue operation.

When its big there is no way to deploy any rescue craft at Ulus, even from Padang would it be difficult. Jimbaran Bay may be the closest.

Its also very difficult to get in even for good surfers. On that big swell about 5 years ago everyone elected to paddle down to Padang after that giant set around sundown, and even getting in at Padang is not easy either. Banksy lost his board at outside corner. Hung around in the dark hoping to be rescued and in the end had to swim. He came in at Tomas beach which he reckons was the heaviest pounding he has ever experienced

Guys giving the "rescue me" waving arms signal are usually ignored. You need to think about it before you go out. The one hour sets can be double the average size with 15 to 20 waves. Surfing at the bommie you need to be prepared to be swept right through the bombie impact zone, then the outer peak impact zone, outside corner, then all the way down to Padang. The easiest place to get in is Impossibles. When its really big the bombie is just a mess of heaving 20' closeouts, ditto the peak, everyone will be at outside corner.

Thud wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 26, 2018 11:39 am

Cranked you'd know better than most, I've noticed when it gets heavy duty a lot of the Indo surfers are too smart to get involved. Maybe I'm imagining this.

The really good ones are out there. Most really big waves go unridden though as most surfers are not riding big enough board to get into them.

Thud wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 26, 2018 11:39 am

One of the punters on Swellnet said 5 surfers have died in that run of swell. He was having a major crack at the life guards. I doubt they'd be anywhere near Hawaiian standards. Thinking about it I've never seen an Indo life guard. But what could anyone do in those circumstances. Know your limitations.

I think they need helicopters to be effective. No chance of that though.

So yep you are on your own. If you aren't confident about swimming down to Impossibles in big surf then don't go out

It sounds like to be effective any lifeguards would need to be in the lineup on skis

But that would take commitment, financing and planning on a Hawaii/Aust level

You'd need a lifeguard centre, daily risk assessments, all emergency services connected up, the whole box and dice.

But isn't that why people go to Bali, because things are loose and they can kinda impose their own stuff on the situation? that kind of planning, skills/protection etc tends to come with a few social limits.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 26, 2018 2:18 pm

Bali remains a third world country. The guys hanging up the top of the cliffs waving flags aren't going to mount a major rescue operation.

Haven't been there for 5 years or so but my memory of the life guards is you could score weed off of them and if there was a nice looking girl to chat up they may not see you drowning and risking their life to save you was not in their job description anyway.

On a positive note, they did assist a saffa with a dislocated knee up the stairs last time I was there.

When I was trying to get up the stairs after a surf two years ago I thought a couple of the stream of tourists coming down were going to go over the side. There would have been fifteen sightseers. Freaked me out how developed it had got over the about four years since I'd been there.

Its absolutely typical of bali that they have put 3" diameter plastic waterpipe posts and rails on all the steps into the cave for "safety". These have all the strength of a wet noodle

Unfortunately they provide just the illusion of safety, if you stumble or fall and naturally grasp at that illusionary protection you will go straight over. They are actually much more dangerous than having no railing at all.

Trying to avoid the wind so popped into mid Manly and to my surprise scored this lined up shoulder high left hander that gave for about an hour. Was riding this 7ft narrow 2+1 thing and it loved the speedy bank. Great fun.

Bought a new long arm short leg wettie as well. Rip Curl Aggro. Pretty comfortable.

...

cool solo play surf at Newport this morning! 3-5' chucks. ENE swell under a S windswell

3-5 foot? Cronulla has 3 foot max of gutless wind mush. Chest high runners off first reef the only plausible option, barely.

Uh ho, Nicks crossed Hatchie on wave size, Yikes.