RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 11:44 am

17 second period swells forecast there for Sunday. Can Perth beaches handle it?

There's nothing to handle no matter how big the swell is. There's awesome coastal protection in WA due to the sunken offshore coastline. When a perfect 3m swell hits the offshore reefs it refracts in a fan shape up to nearly 90 degrees, this turns the 3m swell into 3' slop as the refracted waves meet each other head on.

Its a wonder to behold, I've watched that very scenario a few times from a light plane when flying to and from from Rottnest. Best swell size is under 1.5m and on a high tide so the swell can get over the reefs without too much interference.

Thud wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 10:44 am

Marg River cancelled due to Shark activity

How much could be written about this? Tons.

I'm giving up surfing, it's too frightening.

btw I've seen Scarborough when there's been a major bombing close range groundswell in the outer waters and it was 6' and closing out directly onto a sandbar about 40m offshore, with the biggest backwash in Human History. Incredible fun! but not to surf.

...

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 6:51 pm

Thud wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 10:44 am

Marg River cancelled due to Shark activity

How much could be written about this? Tons.

I'm giving up surfing, it's too frightening.

What are you worried about?
You can only die once.

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 6:53 pm

btw I've seen Scarborough when there's been a major bombing close range groundswell in the outer waters and it was 6' and closing out directly onto a sandbar about 40m offshore, with the biggest backwash in Human History. Incredible fun! but not to surf.

Sounds like Bondi.

South facing reef. Chest to head high lefts running all the way inside the point. High tide has killed it now. Young bloke snapped his ankle trying to land an air reverse. Ambos soon arriving.

saltman wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 19, 2018 8:52 am

Trev wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 7:03 pm

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 6:51 pm

Thud wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 18, 2018 10:44 am

Marg River cancelled due to Shark activity

How much could be written about this? Tons.

I'm giving up surfing, it's too frightening.

What are you worried about?
You can only die once.

Trev 007

I knew there'd be one.

Had the funnest surf this morning. Good banks. Snared an absolute screamer as soon as I paddled out. A fair amount of waves considering how crowded it was. Inside section sucked out and just kept going on the good ones.

I sat on the nth hill at 'bra watching piddly crumblers with my (former charger) client, MP like at Kirra's hill, just watching.

sucked out, eh?

Getting the hang of the Mctavish mal now. Had a great surf this morning in nice 3 foot glass, long rides. Just gotta keep reminding mqyself to look back at the tail to see where I am after pop up. Always too far forward, adjust back a bit and gold. Wishing I got a mal years ago.
Short board day tomorrow

No Pants Lance wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 19, 2018 6:20 pm

I sat on the nth hill at 'bra watching piddly crumblers with my (former charger) client, MP like at Kirra's hill, just watching.

sucked out, eh?

Sucked in on your part I guess, Skip.
I'm sure Hatchie can scold you for looking at The Bra in those conditions.
Yes, Bondi has got some banks again finally.

Before the north wind it was clean and a semi close out peak up past the poles. The bombies were going gang busters but it wasn't getting into longy. Some ground swell left in the mix.

marauding mullet wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 19, 2018 6:44 pm

Getting the hang of the Mctavish mal now. Had a great surf this morning in nice 3 foot glass, long rides. Just gotta keep reminding mqyself to look back at the tail to see where I am after pop up. Always too far forward, adjust back a bit and gold. Wishing I got a mal years ago.
Short board day tomorrow

Too far forwards?
Mate, get the fcuk up there and hang 'em over.

Your standard McTavish mal has a lot of tail lift and turns well off the tail. However....Steves right....get up there and go for the nose.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 20, 2018 8:01 am

marauding mullet wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 19, 2018 6:44 pm

Getting the hang of the Mctavish mal now. Had a great surf this morning in nice 3 foot glass, long rides. Just gotta keep reminding mqyself to look back at the tail to see where I am after pop up. Always too far forward, adjust back a bit and gold. Wishing I got a mal years ago.
Short board day tomorrow

Too far forwards?
Mate, get the fcuk up there and hang 'em over.

The front’s sooo far away at the moment.

It's only a foot step or two away. Getting back is the hard bit.

Beanpole wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 20, 2018 8:04 am

Your standard McTavish mal has a lot of tail lift and turns well off the tail. However....Steves right....get up there and go for the nose.

Yeah, mine has a lot of lift in the tail for sure, just getting my initial bottom turns sorted at this stage. Try turning off the inside rail from too far forward and I just fall face first into wave like a spaz.
I’ll get to the nose, but not yet. Nobody wants to plummet down the mineshaft on a 3 footer and end up dead like Nick.