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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 11:30 am
by Cranked
Hrumph. Fcuk those short period swells! Next week I'm off to the land where a decent swell has a period of 16 to 21 seconds.
These are what swells should be, nice even lines, 10-20 waves in a set, carefully step laddering up from 3' to 8'.
And in between sets, a nice lull of 15-40 minutes so you can have a good chat with your mates, or paddle out without getting your hair wet.
Sun always shines, wind is offshore. Water above 28 degrees.
Sorry, I'll shut up now.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 12:17 pm
by PeepeelaPew
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 12:44 pm
by Hatchnam
steve shearer wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:35 am
Gita continues to be a mind-fcuker.
It's straight onshore and 3ft horrible junk here.
50 mins ago at greenhills nulla (pics from biarms digital).
Single fin domain. Wish I could get to it this second.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 1:04 pm
by Over55yrs
And 2 people drowned/missing overnight at Maroubra presumably doing a evening swim..........................and much smaller and windblown where I was this morning.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 3:38 pm
by Cranked
Legion wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 12:17 pm
You were doing so well until "a lull of 15-40 minutes". WTF?
I don't know the physics of of it, but the longer the period the longer the lulls, but also the longer the period swells have more waves in the sets. But hey, you got all day, 6am to 7pm.
Maybe 'boo can fill us in on the cause.
I like it though, catch a set wave and just wait a bit and you can paddle out easy. No need to thrash yourself to exhaustion trying to get back out, just be patient. 40 minutes is for the really big, long period swells, usually about 15 mins for 4'-6'
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 3:44 pm
by PeepeelaPew
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:00 pm
by Cranked
It can be hilarious. Surfers arrive at ulus, perfect 2', paddle out, catch a few waves. Time goes by... crowd increases.
On the cliffs you can see the sets 10 k away. First 3' comes, crowd moves out a bit, 4 footer on the way, paddle further out. They can't see what's on the way or they would be paddling in, 8-10 footers stacked to the horizon
Chaos ensures. A couple of guys on 9 footers catch a few waves, everyone else retires. The lineup is nearly empty and the whole thing repeats all day
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:16 pm
by Nick Carroll
Cranked wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 3:38 pm
Legion wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 12:17 pm
You were doing so well until "a lull of 15-40 minutes". WTF?
I don't know the physics of of it, but the longer the period the longer the lulls, but also the longer the period swells have more waves in the sets. But hey, you got all day, 6am to 7pm.
Maybe 'boo can fill us in on the cause.
I like it though, catch a set wave and just wait a bit and you can paddle out easy. No need to thrash yourself to exhaustion trying to get back out, just be patient. 40 minutes is for the really big, long period swells, usually about 15 mins for 4'-6'
Longer period means they're traveling quicker. They outstrip the lower period swells in the trip from source to impact.
Part of why they travel faster is that they travel in "trains", like cyclists in a peloton.
Most of the power in a solid swell event is in the mid to lower period stuff, but a fair bit of that dissipates before it makes landfall, when the trip between source and impact is as long as it often is in Bali. Like you will almost never see the 10-11sec stuff, but if you could, you'd see a shit load more waves per hour. Like I'm doing right now in Sydney.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 4:26 pm
by steve shearer
That is the phenomenon known as swell decay.
A somewhat mysterious process that sometimes defies the algorithms, especially in places like Puerto Escondido.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 5:17 pm
by Cranked
I like this about the Indian Ocean swells
The Indian Ocean is mostly dominated by swell waves generated predominantly under the extreme windy conditions prevailing over the Southern Ocean and southern Indian Ocean.
The ocean surface displays a combination of wide range of gravity waves with varying amplitudes and frequencies. Generation and growth of such gravity waves are primarily dependent on wind velocity,wind duration and fetch. However, even in the absence of significant local wind, one can observe a collection of waves of very large wavelength on the sea surface. Even in a rough sea dominated by waves of small wavelength generated by local winds, there exist waves of large wave length. These are swells which have propagated out of their generating area to the distant coasts without significant attenuation. Observation shows that local winds and waves have very little effect on the size and progress of the swell waves. These waves pass through the sea practically uninterrupted by local effects. Once the swells leave the stormy areas their wave height initially decreases due to attenuation.Afterwards, the steepness reduces significantly to an extent where it can remain independent of the local wind effects.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:45 pm
by Nick Carroll
I like that about the Pacific too. But I like more the Pacific's tendency to be kinda violent and dynamic.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:01 am
by BA
Crowds like flies on a fresh shit this morning.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:57 am
by Thud
It never ceases to amaze me when it's a ruffled 2-3 ft hardly anyone surfs but a few decent days and every cnut is dusting off his board for his one of five surfs for the year.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:40 pm
by Nick Carroll
Thud wrote: ↑Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:57 am
It never ceases to amaze me when it's a ruffled 2-3 ft hardly anyone surfs but a few decent days and every cnut is dusting off his board for his one of five surfs for the year.
really, seems exactly the opposite to me
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 1:04 pm
by Thud
There you go.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 1:07 pm
by channels
Fair chance Nick’s version of a decent day is slightly different to Thud’s.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 1:17 pm
by steve shearer
Soon as it's pumping here all the cardio guys with their HRM's and fit bits seem to go missing, I guess keeping the BPM down is a big comittment.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Posted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 1:19 pm
by Thud
Not that you know me Channels, but no I'm not an ex pro who surfs maxing Sunset. However, can tell you lunch time yesterday the long reef car park was full and the there was a decent 4/5 ft that had a bit of power in it, not heavy by any stretch and it was packed off the lugga. I saw at least 3 guys not get out and the amount of guys pitched was countless. When it's 3 foot they'll mow the lawns and wait the the next decent swell to get pitched at long reef lol.
Saying that I haven't disagreed with NC, it's just my observation of spending 3-4 days in the water a week