RealSurf Surfers' Forum

Plenty of chest-high peaks with only two others out. Weird winds constantly swinging offshore/cross-shore/still. Then thunder and lightning. Loads of fun.

chest high south straddie-like peaks here too.

i ripped the full deck grip off and the board is so much more lighter. it's unbelievable. it's great to be on wax again too. Once my feet hit the deck grip, they weren't moving. at all. so much poo stancing i could have easily walked away from surfing forever, such was the disservice i was doing to the 'sport' ...

Deck grip is a curse.

BA wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 17, 2017 9:59 am

Plenty of chest-high peaks with only two others out. Weird winds constantly swinging offshore/cross-shore/still. Then thunder and lightning. Loads of fun.

Pre or post high tide?

Had a shocker in fat burgery peaks just before the peak of the tide.

Pre. Went out at dawn.

crabmeat thompson wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 17, 2017 12:51 pm

chest high south straddie-like peaks here too.

i ripped the full deck grip off and the board is so much more lighter. it's unbelievable. it's great to be on wax again too. Once my feet hit the deck grip, they weren't moving. at all. so much poo stancing i could have easily walked away from surfing forever, such was the disservice i was doing to the 'sport' ...

Its not a sport Crabmeat, its more spiritual then that.

only if you're shit at it.

Had a piss weak surf up at Mova Vale but it was rippy. Watched a chinaman and his family swim in the most obvious rip known to man kind. I pointed to the Dangerous Current sign and it was met with an uncaring smile. They kept swimming. 10 minutes later the father was rescued about 120 metres from shore. He'd gone under at least 3 times. Him and his wife seemed completely oblivious he was about 5-10 mins from dying. It was all very odd and a little infuriating.

Nick Carroll wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 17, 2017 4:08 pm

only if you're shit at it.

Tell that to Rasta you kook.

Mid arvo surf down south end. Chest high with not that much push to it. but still some fun wackable bowls all the same.

Surfed the twinny. Stack of fun little waves coming through. The rights were the pick, but the left running back into the reef still allowed a hack off the top before kicking off the back.

23 mins drive from front door to beach. Blood alcohol reading zero.

Hatchnam wrote: ↑

Sun Dec 17, 2017 5:19 pm

Mid arvo surf down south end. Chest high with not that much push to it. but still some fun wackable bowls all the same.

Surfed the twinny. Stack of fun little waves coming through. The rights were the pick, but the left running back into the reef still allowed a hack off the top before kicking off the back.

23 mins drive from front door to beach. Blood alcohol reading zero.

Beany has a blood alcohol reading of 23 and a 0 mins drive to the beach.

Sn1gger

Surfed an offshore break on the SUP, first time I ever got it to actually surf like a mal.
2ft, 100m rides. Lots of water movement, my GPS watch said the current was 5.2km/h.
Saw 11 sharks.

Then this afternoon in some nicely shaped thigh-high point waves with fuck all crowd.
Kids both stood up on the new boards, way earlier than I expected. Think the swimming and acrobatics lessons must have helped.

Yeah I often bust out a forward roll on take off

Actually I used to surf with a bloke who was in the English junior gymnastics team as a kid and he'd do cartwheels and backflips on a longboard.

Mid bank. Knee to waist high with a light cross onshore wind. Steep wedging little peaks that were fast and pockety.

Surfed the twin fin. There were a couple of sections I had a heap of speed up and hit them as hard and steep as I could, causing the board to kind of Ollie out of the lip then land back in the trough. Managed to pull it off with ease and draw my line back up into the face and kept threading down the line. Not an air, but more than a standard rentry.

Braithy would’ve been proud.

Beanpole would’ve been drinking Aldi whisky on the back patio.

Beanpole would have gone for a swim. Sounds crap.