RealSurf Surfers' Forum

It makes for good sport. Sure I could overlook it but that'd be no fun

Fair point.

ajohnsen wrote: ↑

Sun Sep 03, 2017 6:04 pm

This reemergence of the wave height thing is going to see a lot of ToTY nominations. Keep it up.

I tried to broker a peace between the waring camps by introducing a new measure, kilojoules, but that was a dismal failure.

I think it was mid 20 kilojoules when I surfed the biscuit the other day. Really is an epic ubergroveller

Aj and I met up at Garie Beach early on Father's Day morning. High tide killing the little swell there was.

We both realised we should have stayed in bed and waited for our burnt toast and tea.

For we are Constanza's, lords of the idiots.

To add insult to injury, I had to make the tea when I got home.

But it was a nice drive though.

I need Shearer's help. Surf Forecast, a site I have touted for its accuracy, has had a terrible record this year. It's gone from being around 90% accurate for the bukit down to more like 50%.Even its supposed current swell (supposedly not a prediction) is wrong.

Has there been a loss of monitoring stations in the India ocean that have made forecasting more of a guess, or are the weather conditions this year such that it hard to make predictions?

This is a dire state of affairs. Hopefully Realsurf's surf prediction guru can explain this troubling loss of accuracy.

I should be looking at 6'-8' swell atm, in fact I should be surfing it, but here I am typing away.

Depends what model they are using for prediction and what they are basing the report on.

Real observations (doubtful) or predicted observations (an oxymoron if ever there was one) made remotely.

I broke a 3 month drought on the 9'2" single fin, with new rudder fin that looks like it could keep a yacht in a straight line. Clear blue sky, no wind and clean waist to shoulder high very nice little waves. Super fun. The big rudder fin fits the board perfect, way better than the greenough or dolphin fin. High line trim on speedy little waves yeeew. We won't discuss my failed attempts at any kind of turn though haha. Was ready to get rid of the board but this fin is a good fit. Rolled bottom soft railed single fin longboard, and an unkempt beard, I just need a cardigan and a kombi and the transformation to hipster will be close to done :0

And my nasi bunkus, normally at the local warung by 6:15am is late.

Honestly, we need a Third World Problems thread

Late arvo session Cronulla point. 3-4 foot with bigger sets. Washy and really slabby. Not breaking that well but had a tonne of grunt for its size.

is that all?

Thought it might be bigger.

Small fun peelers this morning at my local.
Slight pick up in size this evening. Hope it holds till tomorrow.

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 09, 2017 6:42 pm

is that all?

Thought it might be bigger.

It was 6' plus, like plus plus, on a lot of open beaches down here today. But mostly just the lead bit of swell. Tomorrow should be more long interval muscly etc

steve shearer wrote: ↑

Sat Sep 09, 2017 6:42 pm

is that all?

Thought it might be bigger.

Early on cronulla point had double overhead sets.
See this https://www.facebook.com/23519816318029 ... 720465196/
But I didn't get to it til 3pm onwards. Conditions had deteriorated by then. Strong cross-shore wind and directional south swell was making it break way too wide and messy. Not really hugging the reef and running, mostly smashing down in one go. I dunno it might've been bigger than 3-5 foot when I was out there. Didn't seem too big, just super thick and sketchy/washy. Up the beach greenhills had tonnes of swell but blustery as hell

Got this one solid bomb set that looked like the second section was going to throw over so I could backdoor it. Whole thing pinched out and shut down the length of the reef. The lip hit the trough so hard in front of me that I got bounced about three foot in the air. One other dude reckons he hit the reef a couple of times. It only seemed to be about waist deep at most over the reef this arvo

Yeah a bit more solid this morning, maybe 4-8', clean surface but it's still suffering a bit from yesterday's wind

I wouldn't have really cared whether it was 2 ft or 6ft today.

As it turned out it was sheet glass long period 6-8ft............pretty fcuking insane.

Reef i wanted to surf wasn't quite working. Checked the next option nearby.' Slabbing ridiculously, exploding over almost exposed reef that's riddled with sea urchins, and had about a dozen boogers on it sitting shoulder to shoulder, so nah.

Ended up on a protected outer bar. Peeling righthander running for about 100 metres. Around 4-5 foot, two others out there. Long bitch of a paddle out. Fairly gentle wave overall,'but picked up more steam and pocket as it went along. A speed run to cutback wave more or less.

Stopped in and had a look at sandon point on the way back. Some pretty solid double overhead sets, but overall wide and washy conditions.