Where did you surf today ?
Moderators: jimmy, collnarra, PeepeelaPew, Butts, beach_defender, Shari, Forum Moderators
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Well for me yesterday was better - today big, raw and lumpy and crowded.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Come on Steve and Iggy... we want some heroic stories from today...
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
-
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Reef was much better, surfed it for about 3hrs from 10am, there were some good ones but a lot of wide ones too which meant you got flogged every wave paddling back out.S4MS wrote:Newport pool, big, shifty & crumbly. Reef looked better but heavy
Wide ones a result of the double swell, ESE ones wandering away from the actual reef and breaking on that shit bombie 100m over.
Got some instinct drops, one awesome barrel, and one epic back slamming down-the-face wipeout, really rang my bell!
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26042
- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:57 pm
- Location: good fanks
Re: Where did you surf today ?
What'd you ride NC?
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 44824
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I went to my friends place last night, he bought a new house and he so hap.
so we had a few beers to wet the babies head and then ate a half a ritalin each just because that was about the dumbest and most appropriate move available and then went down to Shorties and had a few long island iced teas.
this morning, feeling pretty foggy and low on gas, I jumped off and out the back made an attempt on a doubled up 8 footer. That pitched me from crest to trough and squashed me like a bug. I bounced off the bottom, bam!- then again- boom!, it felt like I was a little brown beetle getting stomped on by a big angry giant. And each time I got stomped on, all the air was getting knocked out of me.
I might have even climbed up my legrope. Seeing stars, hearing a noise like a stream running through my head. I had to sit off to the side like a baby in a high chair until I came to my senses.
Why can't I be like Nick Carroll, I thought, he would never do something so stupid.
I got a good one in.
shined the arvo session. Too buggered.
so we had a few beers to wet the babies head and then ate a half a ritalin each just because that was about the dumbest and most appropriate move available and then went down to Shorties and had a few long island iced teas.
this morning, feeling pretty foggy and low on gas, I jumped off and out the back made an attempt on a doubled up 8 footer. That pitched me from crest to trough and squashed me like a bug. I bounced off the bottom, bam!- then again- boom!, it felt like I was a little brown beetle getting stomped on by a big angry giant. And each time I got stomped on, all the air was getting knocked out of me.
I might have even climbed up my legrope. Seeing stars, hearing a noise like a stream running through my head. I had to sit off to the side like a baby in a high chair until I came to my senses.
Why can't I be like Nick Carroll, I thought, he would never do something so stupid.
I got a good one in.
shined the arvo session. Too buggered.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
-
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Ah a 7'1" AB six channel, it felt a bit small actually. Coulda done with a bit more foam. Or maybe I was just fcuken completely exhausted from being a super clubby the day before at Blacksmiths. Viz, you are now reading a post from the new NSW masters iron man champion!Brian Brainwave wrote:What'd you ride NC?
christ ship me off to Alaska in a bucket someone.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I'm still sitting here in sunny Perth. I don't leave till 11am Sunday.saltman wrote:More stories please - for inspiration
I have 4 days to unwind the knots in my 56yo back and clear my mind
Before a 16 second 5-8ft swell hits for 3 days
Then drops to 4ft 11 secs
Then another 19 second 6-7 ft a few days later
Cranked must be peaking
I can see a 3500kJ swell arriving next Friday morning, glassy conditions in the morning (always a suss call but great if it happens).
3500kJ is at least 500kJ outside my comfort range, but I'm not too bright and will probably go out anyway and regret it deeply when a 10 wave 4000kJ set catches me outside (not inside, that's a doddle)
Nick has way too much energy, maybe he can come and push me into a few
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
Re: Where did you surf today ?
You know its weird Steve because I had an awful feeling all day that you had died.
Glad your safe brother.. maybe lay off the ritalin next time huh.
Glad your safe brother.. maybe lay off the ritalin next time huh.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26042
- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:57 pm
- Location: good fanks
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Nick Carroll wrote:Ah a 7'1" AB six channel, it felt a bit small actually. Coulda done with a bit more foam. Or maybe I was just fcuken completely exhausted from being a super clubby the day before at Blacksmiths. Viz, you are now reading a post from the new NSW masters iron man champion!Brian Brainwave wrote:What'd you ride NC?
christ ship me off to Alaska in a bucket someone.
wow. way to go champ!
musta been alotta water moving around for you to feel under-gunned on an AB 7'1"!
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26042
- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:57 pm
- Location: good fanks
Re: Where did you surf today ?
shearer gets best on ground today. If i'd had a night before, i wouldn't have even checked the point today!
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Went to the Kick (eye roll) Got a couple of fun ones, like riding a skateboard down a hill into fatness. Only a few out so, Dick it, why not.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
South Steyne was actually really good around 5ish.
-
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26515
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Says the man who's on the oxys lolDrailed wrote:You know its weird Steve because I had an awful feeling all day that you had died.
Glad your safe brother.. maybe lay off the ritalin next time huh.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Yeah but I am not paddling out at 8ft Lennox.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
Re: Where did you surf today ?
South coast reef. Two x 3 hr sessions. Morning at head high to head and a half high. And afternoon at head and a half high and bigger as the swell swung more east. Morning the conditions were better. Arvo it was pretty washy (as pictured below). Take offs in the arvo were late and tricky, with sidewash bouncing off the headland point. Not the best conditions overall for the given location but ok all the same with a light crowd. Plenty of opportunity to put the board on rail on the inside bowl. Surfed the 6'10 rounded pin single.
(Don't name the location if u know it)
(Don't name the location if u know it)
- steve shearer
- BUTTONMEISTER
- Posts: 44824
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:20 pm
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Tell us about your competition Nick. Do you have a bitter rival?Nick Carroll wrote: Or maybe I was just fcuken completely exhausted from being a super clubby the day before at Blacksmiths. Viz, you are now reading a post from the new NSW masters iron man champion!
Are there clubby forums like RS where clubbies discuss home renos?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
-
- That's Not Believable
- Posts: 68233
- Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 8:21 am
- Location: Button Factory
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Congrats, Nick. Sounds like a real slog.
Put your big boy pants on
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
I mean, tastebuds? WGAF?
- crabmeat thompson
- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 26042
- Joined: Tue Jul 27, 2010 3:57 pm
- Location: good fanks
Re: Where did you surf today ?
That latest doomsday weather run looks like its opting for the nuclear option.
Next thursday into friday it's lights out for all this sand.
Next thursday into friday it's lights out for all this sand.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 55 guests