Where did you surf today ?

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Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am

It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am

here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:12 am

ajohnsen wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:25 am
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by swvic » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:13 am

I've seen that film, but will watch it again. Part of me romanticised a life like that, but in reality it wouldn't be something I could ever sustain

'spose he'll be sadly missed around the area
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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:14 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am
It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it
Sad news indeed.
Mate and I rescued a kid who got his rock off wrong at Currumbin Alley once. He was on one side of the rock and his board the other. Too much current to reach down and undo his leggie.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:21 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
How "old" Nick?
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:47 am

Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:14 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am
It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it
Sad news indeed.
Mate and I rescued a kid who got his rock off wrong at Currumbin Alley once. He was on one side of the rock and his board the other. Too much current to reach down and undo his leggie.
For anyone here who gets caught in this situation:

Do NOT reach down to try to undo your leggie. The waterflow will prevent it.

Instead, flex your leggie leg, drawing the knee up into your body.

This will bring the leggie strap within easy reach.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:49 am

Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:21 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
How "old" Nick?
I'm not sure, maybe 60? I'm not sure even he knew.

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:49 am

I must admit I've never thought of that but makes perfect sense.
The kid in my story was only about 10 or 12 and panicking so it's lucky we noticed him.
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:50 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:49 am
Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:21 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
How "old" Nick?
I'm not sure, maybe 60? I'm not sure even he knew.
Yeah. That's about what I'd reckon. Me now. I'm really old. :(
Beanpole
You aren’t the room Yuke You are just a wonky cafe table with a missing rubber pad on the end of one leg.

Skipper
I still don't buy the "official" narrative about 9/11. Oh sure, it happened, fcuk yeah. But who and why and how I'm, not convinced it was what we've been told.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:50 am

I got caught badly at south end of Whale Beach as a grommet. From memory, I got sucked under the ledge when my leggie got caught but a surge pulled me out and dumped me on the shelf. Of course, as a grom, I could've been talking the whole thing up.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 21, 2018 12:29 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
I think: there but for the Grace of God, etc etc

Still, he seemed to do no harm.

and RIP to Bob.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:44 pm

Aj, I’ve got a few down here! Just make the Deed for the house out to Mrs Wyre for tax purposes. Seriously, drive down at 5am, you’ll be pulling in at 6, back in time for the morning debrief at 9.25.

Good advice Nick, sorry to hear the news. That situation must be up there for most common way to drown surfing?
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ctd » Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:22 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:47 am
For anyone here who gets caught in this situation:

Do NOT reach down to try to undo your leggie. The waterflow will prevent it.

Instead, flex your leggie leg, drawing the knee up into your body.

This will bring the leggie strap within easy reach.
I was also taught to have the strap done up so you release it by pulling inwards (ie if on your right leg, pull towards your left). Because this means you can use either arm to undo (can’t pull outwards using your opposite arm ie if on right ankle, can’t pull to the right with your left arm). Also so you always know which way to pull if you are panicking

But never had to put it to the test so - any opinions?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:35 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:47 am
Trev wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:14 am
Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:59 am
It's fcuken fun as shit down here today.

Sad news, Bob, an old bloke who lived in his car above Little Avalon, drowned today after his legrope was caught in rock.

Someone made a film about Bob for the FlickrFest thing, I'll see if I can find it
Sad news indeed.
Mate and I rescued a kid who got his rock off wrong at Currumbin Alley once. He was on one side of the rock and his board the other. Too much current to reach down and undo his leggie.
For anyone here who gets caught in this situation:

Do NOT reach down to try to undo your leggie. The waterflow will prevent it.

Instead, flex your leggie leg, drawing the knee up into your body.

This will bring the leggie strap within easy reach.
Thanks again Nick. That's exactly the mistake I made. You told me that when I reported here a while ago that I was under for 3 waves with a snagged leggie at Voodoo and only lived to tell the tale because my leggie broke. I make sure I tell other people
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Yuke Hunt » Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:03 pm

Here's a link to short film, HOME (about Bob) ...

https://vimeo.com/229802433
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by marauding mullet » Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:23 pm

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 11:08 am
here we go:

https://vimeo.com/229802433

I think we were supposed to watch this and think "legend" but I thought it was a bit haunting, even scary
I found that incredibly sad, seemed too decent a bloke to be living alone like that.
Is that how he wanted it? Who knows.
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Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Aug 21, 2018 3:28 pm

Wyre wrote:
Tue Aug 21, 2018 1:44 pm
Aj, I’ve got a few down here! Just make the Deed for the house out to Mrs Wyre for tax purposes. Seriously, drive down at 5am, you’ll be pulling in at 6, back in time for the morning debrief at 9.25.

Good advice Nick, sorry to hear the news. That situation must be up there for most common way to drown surfing?
It's not really, most people who drown while surfing do so because they suffer a heart attack or hit the bottom and are knocked unconscious.

But there's been a few over the years for sure.

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