Where did you surf today ?

[Wyre]

Well certainly in the case of the aforementioned Island, it was a combination of all three!

[Beanpole]

Bondi has seen a generational shift in regards to mals. There's a regular hipster crew but the old fogies who for a while dominated the odd line up are now pretty much extinct. They are seen in the parking lot and occasionally the odd ones out in the line up but nothing like ten to fifteen years ago.

For a while it was a huge free kick when everyone was on banana rocketed low volume boards.

[Thud]

Now the boards are short fat trimming things that don't turn, have way to much foam under the front foot and have rails you couldnt step over.

[Beanpole]

They catch a lot more waves though.

[Trev]

Now the boards are short fat trimming things that don't turn, have way to much foam under the front foot and have rails you couldnt step over.

I'm confused.
How can it be a mal if it's short?

[Beanpole]

Thud is saying regular boards that everyone rides are like that, Trev.....if I'm understanding his post.

[Trev]

Thud is saying regular boards that everyone rides are like that, Trev.....if I'm understanding his post.

OK.

[Thud]

Correct Bean along time since I rock n rolled. New main stream short boards have 2 divisions to progress through until they get to what would have been standard fare short boards were 10-12 years ago.

[Thud]

They catch a lot more waves though.

True dat. But, if you're in the mood they can be a bit frustrating. But for sure.

[Cranked]

And then, unchanged for 25 years, is the McCoy approach to shortboards:

very short: for turning
very thick: for paddling
wide tail and mid: for speed and drive
narrow nose: easy to duck dive, never catches
lots of nose rocker: for steep drops and a shorter wetted rail for turns

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[Cranked]

Not sure if that is sarcasm Mr Legion, but I don't like the performance characteristics of flat, wide nose boards, but they certainly paddle and paddle into waves easily, but the longer wetted rail and wide nose just gets in the way after that.

[Wyre]

Here, maybe this will help some of you, part one of a series

https://www.coastalwatch.com/surfing/25 ... ct-fiction

I enjoyed the second episode Nick. I'm genuinely surprised that dodgy dings are an issue! Who the hell would go out on a board with ragged fibreglass sticking out? Madness.

Nice to see the 'pro-choice no leggie' crew cop a serve too.

[Thud]

Yes. This is s great series. People who surf without leggies are cocks, thing is surf mags tell people to do it to "improve their surfing" wTF?

The thing that rings loud is the "people who know enough to get themselves in trouble". Geez that's been me once or twice. In 8ft plus steam rollers where I'd gotten distracted by a shark once and drifted off a point into a heavy sets. Just dumb arse stuff. Caught onbthe inside on kegging shallow reef (idiot). Sometimes the conditions change quickly, that is also an issue.

And with Autumn and Winter swells around the corner.....

I'm too old to do one however if there was a solid wave training course, gee whiz that would be good. Not a big wave but just a solid wave course.

[Thud]

Will do. Cheers mate

[Nick Carroll]

Just a thought on those classes: they’re instructive and entertaining, but you will forget most of it within a week or so unless you make a habit out of some of it. Possibly the best things they’ll show you is the effectiveness of the deep exhale, what they’ll probably call the “dump breath”, where you breathe all the way out in order to allow a full inhalation just before going underwater, and the value of relaxation underwater, just not doing much during wipeouts. You can practice those two things every surf until they’re kind of automatic, then they’re there when you really want ‘em.

[Thud]

Cheers, any advice welcome.

[Grooter]

Didn't find much quality in far south NSW a couple of weeks ago, surfed Quondola and Pambula river mouth but the surf was small and a bit junky

This morning I surfed 2 - 3 metre swell at Pt Leo on an ocean as smooth as a glass table - nice to be home

Hopefully will go back there again though, Pambula rivermouth looks like it'd fire on a good day