Where did you surf today ?

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Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Sep 03, 2019 11:24 am

steve shearer wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 11:01 am

but it does feel like with the training and the diet and the boards it's going better than it ever has.
I do think you get more tuned into the feelings of surfing with time for sure. That is a reward in itself.

Also I think there is an advantage to not being so brilliant at it when you're young. I was a pretty full throttle surfer as a young man but my surfing was littered with technical deficiencies, and the surfboards were shit by comparison with what we can ride today. So there has always been a lot of room for improvement in my surfing, I'm pretty sure that's true for most of us, and if you keep tuning yourself, finding ways forward, you can keep getting better in some areas for a v long time.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Sep 03, 2019 2:43 pm

Consistent head high waves and frequent overhead sets, light offshore.

I've finally started finding a place in the lineup again and getting some decent waves. Its been a long drought since my bike accident in mid March.

Afternoon session is next. It's forecast to be much bigger Wed and Thurs.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Sep 03, 2019 2:52 pm

I think you are doing great Cranked.

wasn't the initial diagnosis you would never surf again?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Sep 03, 2019 5:16 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 2:52 pm
I think you are doing great Cranked.

wasn't the initial diagnosis you would never surf again?
Thanks Steve. Yeah, that was my GP who told me that when we were looking at all the images and the radiologists report, I was devastated.

Braithy gave me some good advice though, and when I finally saw a physio, she answered all my questions and I just did what she told me to do.

It's really only been in the last 3 weeks that I've been able to train at anything like a decent level. Before that it was just range of motion stuff and really light weights and resistance bands.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Sep 03, 2019 6:34 pm

Just looking at Ulus from Made Bentils place. Glorious late afternoon, there's a gentle offshore, 40 out at racetrack, just a dozen others covering the other 80% of the reef.

The bombie and outside peak are trying to break, there's the occasional wave just now and then, outriders for the coming swell?

Tomorrow jumps from today's 6' up to 10', kJs go from 1,400 to 4,500.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Sep 03, 2019 6:54 pm

sounds divine
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Tue Sep 03, 2019 7:40 pm

Take care, Cranky...stay off the mopeds.

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Tue Sep 03, 2019 7:47 pm

Cranked wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 6:34 pm
Just looking at Ulus from Made Bentils place. Glorious late afternoon, there's a gentle offshore, 40 out at racetrack, just a dozen others covering the other 80% of the reef.

The bombie and outside peak are trying to break, there's the occasional wave just now and then, outriders for the coming swell?

Tomorrow jumps from today's 6' up to 10', kJs go from 1,400 to 4,500.
Will we be able to look out for you on a Surfers of Bali video one day soon Cranked?

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:22 pm

Of course.

I'll be the comic relief.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:31 pm

I must say watching those videos there's a lot of average surfers out there.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:19 am

I thought average surfers didn't surf over head high Beans?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:30 am

They’re all show offs and elitists and try hards hey beancailpers
steve shearer wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 5:36 pm
scant swell window
Beanpole wrote:
Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:39 pm
I had a swim.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:31 am

Most of the waves weren't. Number of surfers out every time it's overhead decreases dramatically in the video footage. Half the footage is Canggu anyway.

You would have to say a large proportion out on gigantic surfboards when it's a bit over head high are try hards. I take it Steve and Hatchie have never watched this stuff.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:45 am

Do you ever just stop and think maybe it’s all “just you” beanmong?

you seem to be totally misguided. And the first sentence of second paragraph, FMD you’re weird :lol:

Video aside, here’s how it works...

most surfers are delighted when the surf gets good and overhead. people take days off work for it, put aside other responsibilities, make arrangements, etc.

what most surfers “don’t do” is aim for a severely sheltered corner, getting hassled out by children when there’s a 4-5 foot swell lighting up the coast with offshore winds.

you might find your, yes your the odd one out here.
steve shearer wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 5:36 pm
scant swell window
Beanpole wrote:
Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:39 pm
I had a swim.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Sep 04, 2019 8:52 am

So the answer is "Yes" you have never watched any of this footage. Now Padang appears to get a talented crew but most of the tourists surfing Ulus, Canggu or most of the Bukit are very average and as said the numbers drop as soon as it gets overhead.
Cranky has been saying basically the same thing for years. I must say I've been surprised at just how average the standard of surfing is apart from the locals of course.

You guys are thinking it's like The Mentawis.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:10 am

Yeah, the number of surfers out is inversely proportionate to the wave size. Waist high 150, double overhead 30.

This morning it's consistent head high waves again, no wind, low tide and just a hand full out.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:34 am

thats not been my experience of the Bukit Cranked.

Head high, which is pretty standard for the dry season......is usually the most crowded.

Waist high Ulus? That would be rare during the surf season wouldn't it?

waist high is babyfood. You'll get that to yourself around here in the surf season.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Sep 04, 2019 9:42 am

How long ago was that Steve?
I guess before they built all the car parks and restaurants. I watch that footage a few times a week. Granted they shoot Padang if it's good so Ulus might be bigger on those days but most of the crowds at Padang too.

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