Where did you surf today ?

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Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Mon Sep 02, 2019 7:31 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Mon Sep 02, 2019 5:56 pm
weren't all you Sydney guys frothing about a Mon surf and game of soggy Sao?
Forecasts change Steve.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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Legion
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Legion » Mon Sep 02, 2019 8:58 pm

...
Last edited by Legion on Fri Dec 27, 2019 9:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Tue Sep 03, 2019 6:09 am

I saw about 5 sets hit that bank with no one sitting on it. Big crowd to the left and right and with a group of 6 guys about to paddle out as a group. That wouldn’t last long so I went to another spot instead.
Just the 3 of us for most of the sesh.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Sep 03, 2019 6:15 am

September sessions.

knee feels fine this morning.

Might sit it out today Loof, got a lot on and looks like a few fun swells in the coming week.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Tue Sep 03, 2019 6:54 am

Beanpole wrote:
Mon Sep 02, 2019 7:13 pm
That's okay. He's the real deal not a little try hard core guy.
I thought everyone that surfed overhead waves (which is most people, not a tiny minority like your pickled brain thinks) is a try hard core in your books.
steve shearer wrote:
Mon Aug 03, 2020 5:36 pm
scant swell window
Beanpole wrote:
Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:39 pm
I had a swim.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:24 am

Sure, Hatchie......sure most surfers surf overhead waves. Just waiting for you to qualify that statement. The try hard bit is the minority that thinks it's their duty to enforce dumb wave measurement systems.

So just continuing on my deconstruction of this system....it's like having a speedo on your car that goes up to 600 klm per hour but makes it impossible to work out if you're going 40 or 60 km per hour.

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:30 am

At my local. Nice even overhead lines stretching out to sea, just about dead calm, misty. Nearly an hour after first light, no one out, two surfers walking slowly across the reef.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:52 am

I didn't surf.
Hardly a ripple on Lake Ontario.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Tue Sep 03, 2019 9:17 am

What's your tips for the weather in Canada in about three weeks time, Trev?

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Sep 03, 2019 9:32 am

steve shearer wrote:
Mon Sep 02, 2019 6:46 pm

when did you last think that Nick, or are your best days all behind you now?
Oh yeah I can barely stand up these days what with the withering of muscles caused by too much endurance training

But seriously I think I have posted enough about hard I fcuken rip on a day in day out basis. I’m gonna save up my stories about my own ripping for days when I go to the fcuken stratosphere.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Sep 03, 2019 9:33 am

Btw soon I will be in So CA and I will test the Apple Watch/Surfline custom video link at Lowers. Then you cnuts will be forced to watch just how fcuking good I really am.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Sep 03, 2019 9:34 am

can't hardly wait.

No, but it is a fair question.
At 60, do you still feel those sensations of "yep, thats better than I've ever done" or is the sensation one of declining powers?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:12 am

Well I don't think we are very good judges of our own surfing on the whole, but what I feel in myself is pretty good, not as fast twitch or as strong as in the mid 30s but more efficient. Surfing feels really simple to me, I don't overthink shit generally and I don't over-surf which was often an issue for me.

I don't take the same kind of risks though, I think that limits further learning, but I am not sure what to expect from that anyway, like as if I am going to take a quantum leap with style or approach at my age, I am only gonna get little shifts and they won't be outwardly noticeable.

Sometimes I feel like near a peak, and some things do feel better than they ever have, I surely never imagined I'd be surfing the way I do at 60.

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:17 am

Do you think you'll ever compete again, Nick? Could be pretty neat to win another national title a million years after your last one.

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:25 am

Well that was fun, not as big and a bit straighter then I predicted but when the rip started running it created some rifling lefts.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:31 am

Beanpole wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 9:17 am
What's your tips for the weather in Canada in about three weeks time, Trev?
:-o
Meh!
In 3 weeks we'll almost be ready to head home. In fact we will be home.
The days here are balmy, mid 20's and around 15 overnight. Spent the afternoon at this massive park along the edge of Lake Ontario. Labour Day Monday. Literally thousands there, no provided barbecues so people from all walks of life carry in their own.
Expect it slightly cooler in Halifax tomorrow. Hoping to be out of there before Dorian swings by.
Don t think it'll be much different back on the west coast. But I expect you'll find snow up in the Rockies by then.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Sep 03, 2019 11:01 am

Nick Carroll wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:12 am
Well I don't think we are very good judges of our own surfing on the whole, but what I feel in myself is pretty good, not as fast twitch or as strong as in the mid 30s but more efficient. Surfing feels really simple to me, I don't overthink shit generally and I don't over-surf which was often an issue for me.

I don't take the same kind of risks though, I think that limits further learning, but I am not sure what to expect from that anyway, like as if I am going to take a quantum leap with style or approach at my age, I am only gonna get little shifts and they won't be outwardly noticeable.

Sometimes I feel like near a peak, and some things do feel better than they ever have, I surely never imagined I'd be surfing the way I do at 60.
I remember what you said about getting injured and taking risks and how that could derail the whole show; or words to that effect.

There really was no reason for me to try and run an upside down lip line floater on a barrelling close-out section at full speed; thats' just stoops.
I got really lucky the injury was only a warning bell and not a proper thing.

Getting a knee reconstruction over one turn is not worth it.

It is hard to know whether what feels so good is not merely some peculiar form of self delusion.
Not blowing my own trumpet but after riding that wave that felt like a high point of performance backhand surfing for me, a guy did paddle up to me and tell me how good it was.

it doesn't matter!

but it does feel like with the training and the diet and the boards it's going better than it ever has.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Tue Sep 03, 2019 11:18 am

Lucky Al wrote:
Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:17 am
Do you think you'll ever compete again, Nick? Could be pretty neat to win another national title a million years after your last one.
fcuk mate been there done that.

I wanna win an Australian ironman title. That's better competition than surfing. Close but no cigar so far.

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