Where did you surf today ?

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buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:46 pm

Cranked wrote:
Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:37 pm
So what actually happened?
Head and a half in Ballina on the sets but tide too low and wobbly. Was probably good mid morning.

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:48 pm

glassy double overhead sets.

mid morning.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:50 pm

Image
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:54 pm

Today?

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:57 pm

yeah. bout 9.30
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:57 pm

yesterday was bigger and better.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:57 pm

I only post the photo because it's going to be flat and northerly next 2-3days.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:58 pm

Faaark. Looks glorious.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:11 pm

sat out there yesterday on my 6'6" and picked off bomb sets.
down past the hut every wave.

hollow down the inside.

didn't surf today.

stoke level v. high
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:13 pm

Nice. Why not today Steve?
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:19 pm

Got too many of these yesterday Loof.

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I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:26 pm

Surely always room for another after the shit conditions you have had for the past few months??
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:32 pm

yeah, true.
but I've packed so many away in the last month.

how many of those set waves do you need to get stoked?

I remember Godsave saying he was riding wave after wave and this unquenchable thirst and lack of feeling for each wave was manifesting.

I've found the exact opposite as I get older.....each wave feels better and better and I need so few to feel fully satisfied.

One set wave from out the back to past the hut, that's 800m, maybe more. 10-15 top turns. On a board that is as good as it gets.

That works for me. Getting two or three is a luxury. I probably got between 6 and 10 yesterday. That seemed self-indulgent.

I'd noticed from the surf check earlier that a certain set wave with a certain period in it, would show on the pinnacle and then swing wide.

when I saw one coming I lazily drifted out there and this thing came in at me like a giant wedge. Freefall rocket drop to 800m ride.

didn't need to surf today, with so much more coming.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:36 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Tue Aug 06, 2019 1:48 pm
glassy double overhead sets.

mid morning.
Fcuk! Now Surf Forecast has started using Iggy scale kilojoules!

Looks really good that's for sure.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:42 pm

the raw model resolutions that Magic Seaweed, Sure forecast etc etc come up with are useless as tits on a bull for forecasting/reporting on these long range/long period refracted S swells.

useless at the best of times.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:45 pm

Yah fair enough Steve, when you had enough you had enough. Given that fin a go? any good?
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:49 pm

not yet Loof.

I took my yellow bonzer out of circulation after that juvey white swooped me .......yummy yellow.

probably pure superstition .

been cycling through a 6'6" Desert Storm, 6'3" MC concave pro-tow and a 6'0" Cabianca DFK ( same Medina board he rode at J-Bay)

and the 7'3" Parmenter when it gets funky or I need a change from shredding.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Tue Aug 06, 2019 3:18 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:42 pm
the raw model resolutions that Magic Seaweed, Sure forecast etc etc come up with are useless as tits on a bull for forecasting/reporting on these long range/long period refracted S swells.

useless at the best of times.
What should they be doing then Steve, and why aren't they?
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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