Head and a half in Ballina on the sets but tide too low and wobbly. Was probably good mid morning.
Where did you surf today ?
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- steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
glassy double overhead sets.
mid morning.
mid morning.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
yeah. bout 9.30
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
yesterday was bigger and better.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
I only post the photo because it's going to be flat and northerly next 2-3days.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Faaark. Looks glorious.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
sat out there yesterday on my 6'6" and picked off bomb sets.
down past the hut every wave.
hollow down the inside.
didn't surf today.
stoke level v. high
down past the hut every wave.
hollow down the inside.
didn't surf today.
stoke level v. high
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Nice. Why not today Steve?
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Got too many of these yesterday Loof.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Surely always room for another after the shit conditions you have had for the past few months??
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
- steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
yeah, true.
but I've packed so many away in the last month.
how many of those set waves do you need to get stoked?
I remember Godsave saying he was riding wave after wave and this unquenchable thirst and lack of feeling for each wave was manifesting.
I've found the exact opposite as I get older.....each wave feels better and better and I need so few to feel fully satisfied.
One set wave from out the back to past the hut, that's 800m, maybe more. 10-15 top turns. On a board that is as good as it gets.
That works for me. Getting two or three is a luxury. I probably got between 6 and 10 yesterday. That seemed self-indulgent.
I'd noticed from the surf check earlier that a certain set wave with a certain period in it, would show on the pinnacle and then swing wide.
when I saw one coming I lazily drifted out there and this thing came in at me like a giant wedge. Freefall rocket drop to 800m ride.
didn't need to surf today, with so much more coming.
but I've packed so many away in the last month.
how many of those set waves do you need to get stoked?
I remember Godsave saying he was riding wave after wave and this unquenchable thirst and lack of feeling for each wave was manifesting.
I've found the exact opposite as I get older.....each wave feels better and better and I need so few to feel fully satisfied.
One set wave from out the back to past the hut, that's 800m, maybe more. 10-15 top turns. On a board that is as good as it gets.
That works for me. Getting two or three is a luxury. I probably got between 6 and 10 yesterday. That seemed self-indulgent.
I'd noticed from the surf check earlier that a certain set wave with a certain period in it, would show on the pinnacle and then swing wide.
when I saw one coming I lazily drifted out there and this thing came in at me like a giant wedge. Freefall rocket drop to 800m ride.
didn't need to surf today, with so much more coming.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Fcuk! Now Surf Forecast has started using Iggy scale kilojoules!
Looks really good that's for sure.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
- steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
the raw model resolutions that Magic Seaweed, Sure forecast etc etc come up with are useless as tits on a bull for forecasting/reporting on these long range/long period refracted S swells.
useless at the best of times.
useless at the best of times.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Yah fair enough Steve, when you had enough you had enough. Given that fin a go? any good?
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
- steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
not yet Loof.
I took my yellow bonzer out of circulation after that juvey white swooped me .......yummy yellow.
probably pure superstition .
been cycling through a 6'6" Desert Storm, 6'3" MC concave pro-tow and a 6'0" Cabianca DFK ( same Medina board he rode at J-Bay)
and the 7'3" Parmenter when it gets funky or I need a change from shredding.
I took my yellow bonzer out of circulation after that juvey white swooped me .......yummy yellow.
probably pure superstition .
been cycling through a 6'6" Desert Storm, 6'3" MC concave pro-tow and a 6'0" Cabianca DFK ( same Medina board he rode at J-Bay)
and the 7'3" Parmenter when it gets funky or I need a change from shredding.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
What should they be doing then Steve, and why aren't they?steve shearer wrote: ↑Tue Aug 06, 2019 2:42 pmthe raw model resolutions that Magic Seaweed, Sure forecast etc etc come up with are useless as tits on a bull for forecasting/reporting on these long range/long period refracted S swells.
useless at the best of times.
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan
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