Where did you surf today ?

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Drailed
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Thu Jun 06, 2019 12:21 pm

Fccck some decent waves finally. Absolute beautiful 4-5ft lefts grinding on and on.
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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Thu Jun 06, 2019 12:31 pm

Queenscliff. Yew.
Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive. If you wanna be tough, grow a vagina. Those things can take a pounding.

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Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 1:44 pm

Lucky Al wrote:
Thu Jun 06, 2019 12:20 pm
Nick Carroll wrote:
Thu Jun 06, 2019 11:57 am
fcuk it's so good here today.

tomorrow, Surfline.com, 13.2 ft at 16 seconds S ooooo! Looks like I'll be going weird and feral again on the 9'8"
you must have been involved in the mid-80s tracks publication "the book of big surf", nick? i think kirk wilcox might have been the editor. i seem to recall a story about surfing at newport in it, possibly by mike newling or even by you?
I can't remember!

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu Jun 06, 2019 2:18 pm

god I loved that book.

I remember reading it at my grandparents house at Wynnum Manly and being gobsmacked by Wayne Bartholomews baroque comparisons between surfing Pipe and being a Japanese samurai warrior.
It just thrilled me right off my feet.
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foamy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Thu Jun 06, 2019 2:26 pm

I don’t have a copy, but

Image

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foamy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by foamy » Thu Jun 06, 2019 2:31 pm

Image

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Thu Jun 06, 2019 4:49 pm

that's the one! i wonder if i still have a copy in a box at dad's house. i have a vague memory of the mike newling one having a weird and feral feel about it, or maybe it was the rod kirsop one?

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:02 pm

I think it was the Simon Anderson one where he snapped his leggy and had to swim to the beach.

God I love that weird and feral feel, love that inversion between standing on the land looking out and then, as if by magic, being in the ocean looking back at the land.
It's so surreal, so sensual.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:46 pm

Designed by wife Wendy!

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:49 pm

Oh yeah it had that epic story by Foo, "The Unridden Realm", Surfer mag made a whole lot of noise many years later over having published it, almost like they invented the story etc, but we ran it about six months before they did. Had the insane shot of Grambeau's, of the loose board on the face of a Waimea closeout.

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Thu Jun 06, 2019 5:50 pm

That was the story in which Foo wrote his classic spaghetti-Western line about how if you want the ultimate thrill you have to be willing to pay the ultimate price. You'd have thought it was cheese except nine years later, he did.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Fri Jun 07, 2019 1:10 pm

Manly mid beach, some good ones in between the close outs.
Why do people say "grow some balls"? Balls are weak and sensitive. If you wanna be tough, grow a vagina. Those things can take a pounding.

Sheng Weng

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sat Jun 08, 2019 9:29 am

Flawless 4 ft lefts at greenhills as the tide started filling in.
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channels
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Sat Jun 08, 2019 11:01 am

Some great banks around.

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Sat Jun 08, 2019 11:47 am

Absolutely pumping down at the nasho. Was just getting started when I got totally caught out by a rogue close out. Landed on me, so I dived and came up to find my board in half. AND NO FCUKING SPARE! Bummed.
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Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sat Jun 08, 2019 5:42 pm

Got a few this arvo. Actually went a bit better than I thought I was going to since I hadn't had a surf in a week or more.

Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Sun Jun 09, 2019 2:30 pm

Just had the surf I expected to have yesterday. Total waste of time. The little right in the Corner looked fun but was as fickle as Loofys Cat. Water was nice though.

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ajohnsen
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by ajohnsen » Sun Jun 09, 2019 5:01 pm

Eloura. Straight as a ruler. It was my first surf in at least a couple of months. Shoulder/arm thing is still there but not giving me any grief. No paddle power, though.

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