Where did you surf today ?
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- Huey's Right Hand
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- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Man it got GOOD this arvo.
All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.
I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.
It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.
I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.
It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
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- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 23268
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Maybe I am beginning to see some things differently in the wake of my dad's death. I used to kid myself that he wanted to hear about our surfing adventures, and he always seemed to enjoy the stories.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
PM me next time Bruddah, I will paddle out with you.Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pmI just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
Trev wrote:I have always had a lot of time for Dick
smnmntll wrote:Got one in the mouth once, that was pretty memorable
Re: Where did you surf today ?
where were all the surfers?!Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pmMan it got GOOD this arvo.
All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.
I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.
It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
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- Huey's Right Hand
- Posts: 23268
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I imagine they were all off being decent human beings.
- steve shearer
- Huey's Right Hand
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
oh god, don't martyr yourself over a good days surfing for chrissakes.
thats what we do.
thats what we do.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes
Re: Where did you surf today ?
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Last edited by Legion on Sun Aug 04, 2019 2:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
At 1pm on a Wednesday? Working i guess.Lucky Al wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:46 pmwhere were all the surfers?!Nick Carroll wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:42 pmMan it got GOOD this arvo.
All the shit went out of the swell, it straightened up a bit from the east and the wind went SW.
I checked it at 1pm and couldn't believe it, perfect 6-8' surf and nobody out. So, well, I went out. The tide slowly slid away and a little bit of the swell with it but still slamming. I surfed by myself till about 2.30. This after surfing all the morning by myself too.
It was fantastic but also a bit strange and feral, the way the day just got turned over to surfing. I just felt really apart from everyone else in my life. Like, surfing, you catch a bunch of really gorgeous waves on a day like today. It's beautiful and all yours but it is also lonely and weird. I've never seen it that way before.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
whenever i visit dad (usually mid-winter) and the point's good it's busy from dawn to dusk. does newport have fewer surfers than northern suburbs of wollongong?
Re: Where did you surf today ?
I could have surfed, but I’m just a softcock.
“My cat is on antibiotics and for a second my brain was like, wait this means he can’t drink.”
Ellory Smith
Ellory Smith
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- Huey's Right Hand
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- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Look steve. I’m just thinking about it for chrissakes.steve shearer wrote: ↑Wed Jun 05, 2019 5:58 pmoh god, don't martyr yourself over a good days surfing for chrissakes.
thats what we do.
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- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
I’m responding to a feeling I had.
- godsavethequeen
- Snowy McAllister
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Re: Where did you surf today ?
Well I, for one, am enjoying the bittersweet lyricism and reflection that has crept into Nick's writing over the past couple of weeks
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Everyone was at Manly probably.
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- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Well god save forget that and do me a favour and respond with some sort of personal thought or feeling about what I posted about above.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Well, the otherness of surfing is negated by comps and romanticised by the companies....but it still floats out there.
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- Huey's Right Hand
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- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:29 am
- Location: Newport Beach
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Like I crave an actual communication about it. Aside from poor loofy trying to be funny or shearer going the niggle.
Re: Where did you surf today ?
Sometimes when I surf alone I want someone to share it with, but other times I love it.
For some reason, I haven't really thought too hard about it, but I like surfing with mates up here on the north coast but in Vic I love surfing alone.
For some reason, I haven't really thought too hard about it, but I like surfing with mates up here on the north coast but in Vic I love surfing alone.
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