Where did you surf today ?

[The Mighty Sunbird]

How many kJ/m?

[Cranked]

How many joules?

Fcuk joules Jimmy, I've moved on to newton metres* now.


* One newton metre is equal to the torque resulting from a force of one newton applied perpendicularly to the end of a moment arm that is one metre long. I'm sure there's something in a newton meter for everyone, crabmeat in particular will find them irresistible

[Kunji]

Tomorrow is the day, supposedly.

Just got back from checking Ulus, perfect conditions, glassy, light warm offshore breeze, a lazy inconsistent but friendly looking long period swell. About 15 surfers scattered around, nymphs playing in the low tide pools as the sun sinks down behind the Java volcanoes.

Bukit > Canguu

[Beanpole]

Little and crowded today. Nice day though. Shoulders still sore from paddling.

[crabmeat thompson]

How many joules?

Fcuk joules Jimmy, I've moved on to newton metres* now.


* One newton metre is equal to the torque resulting from a force of one newton applied perpendicularly to the end of a moment arm that is one metre long. I'm sure there's something in a newton meter for everyone, crabmeat in particular will find them irresistible

the only newton i find irressistable is bert.



reowwwwwwwrrrrrrr!!!

[Cranked]

Judging from the engagement (reviews, photos etc etc) I'd estimate the global user base at around 20-50........probably euro kooks, probably the guys that designed it and built it and their friends and family.

Sorry Cranked this concept is even more still born than Surftechs.

Well fcuk me Steve, Surf Forecast may have just 20-50 users but they are very active. They hit that site nearly two million times in the last 6 months.

30 percent of users were from the US, next were Spain and NZ with about 10 percent. Average visit was 1.3 minutes - they were probably just checking the kJs for their local.

It ranks third for the surf sites, behind Surfline and Magic Seaweed. You'd wanna check with those kooks who built it and get some pointers if you were thinking of building a surf forecasting website

[Thud]

Litres are a nice guide for boards under say 6'6. After that a bit irrelevant perhaps.

[ajohnsen]

I thought Beanpole used litres to keep an eye on his daily scotch intake?

[Drailed]

Cranked you can’t be serious with the kilojoules thing... surely

[Beanpole]

I thought Beanpole used litres to keep an eye on his daily scotch intake?

Just a glass
Litres are still useful over 6'6" maybe not so much with a mal.
My 7'6" foamy is 67 litres or something. Floats like a 9fter.
If you look at Walden Mini Magiks they have a similar volume.
Crazy fat.

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[Thud]

67 lites v 75 litres. Does it matter? Maybe it does.

[offshore1]

When it's scotch, definitely.

[ajohnsen]

Hello,

I live in Belgium and i'm often looking on http://www.surf-forecast.com/ to see the places where i could go surfing. I was thinking to go to the netherlands. I'm still quite new to the sport. Most of the time the wave energy is under 100 Kj...
I don't have experience with this Unit so it's dificult to immagine how a wave of for example 70-80 Kj looks like or a wave of 200Kj.

I was thinking that maybe some of you have that experience by checking the forecast before a session

And the response...

I think you are unnecessarily complicating your wave power assessment.
Tere is so much more to it than just Kjs.
here is a guide as i see it for beginners and covers most circumstance as a broad assessment.
First take swell size, (easy reading that) look at the period which represents the wave length of the swell these two things give you a general estimate of the power of the wave that will generated.
Short period means less power and most likely the swell has been created fairly close by.
Longer period means the swell is more organised more powerful and probably traveled further to get to your beach.
So a two metre swell on a 15 second period will be substantial in power, a one metre by 7second will be nowhere near as powerful.

Now comes the important bit, the bottom of the beach on which you wish to surf, starting at the Continental Shelf and offshore sandbank the swell begins to react an change itself accordingly.

At the point where the swell turns to waves is the most critical and gives the variance in wave types
Holland most often lacks wave power because the long gradually sloping offshore delta sandbank add frictions drag to slow and de-power the wave before it hits the shore line.
A deep water coast with an abrupt rise to the shore will generate a more powerful shore wave. Add further a choice of sand rocks or man made break creators.

Then throw in local and prevailing wind conditions and that is really the way to give yourself a chance of forecasting!

Get to know the beaches where you want to surf then apply the information above, the Kjs, newtons, foot pounds, any other power measurements are really only needed for a scientific assessment.

If you want to go the scientific way read Tony Butt's writings in the Stormrider guides or especially in in The Surfers Path Magazine, he is the best studied writer on this!.

[Beanpole]

So....kjs mean the wave has more mass?
I know kjs are a measure of energy.
Therefore it has more power and will have a longer interval between waves.

[Cranked]

Cranked you can’t be serious with the kilojoules thing... surely

Off course I'm serious. That one measure, kJs, tells me all I need to know about the waves I'll encounter at various breaks around here. It succinctly summarises the complex relationship between swell period and height, the rest is local knowledge.

I really do not look at the forecast wave height. If you asked me the wave size here for today I don't know it despite checking the forecast last night and this morning.

But I do know the kJs and I would work that back to feet in my mind. Then I would have a number of choices as to answering, should it be in real feet or surf feet or metres or body parts. Fcuk that crap. I'd probably just answer a lot, lot bigger than yesterday

[Beanpole]

67 lites v 75 litres. Does it matter? Maybe it does.

Well, as I was pointing out, if a 7'6" surfboard has the same volume as a 9' surfboard it's going to be plenty fat. Some boards, even mals, are deceptively fat or thin.

[steve shearer]

If you asked me the wave size here for today I don't know it despite checking the forecast last night and this morning.

But I do know the kJs and I would work that back to feet in my mind.

Holy sheeit.