Where did you surf today ?

[Drailed]

Paddle! No tow bro. No tow.

BB4Lyfe!

[Nick Carroll]

What board ?

Yesterday AB 7'0". Today! In the smaller and quite buttery conditions, the 6'5" ten channel. My god when you're in the mood for that board it is the Bomb. Felt like MP but without the paranoid schizophrenia

[Hatchnam]

Nice to see you’re still giving the singles a run.

Cronulla point today. Some nearly double overhead sets, and fairly solid. Surfed my big ol’ mid-70’s 6”11 pintail single.

Approached each wave the same.

A speed run straight to the shoulder as wide as I possibly could. Then eased into a cutback, driving deep back into the bowl at first reef reform. Then just stood there trimming along like an ape on Valium til the wave completely died out.

Nothing fancy but got the job done. Meat and three veg style.

[Nick Carroll]

No meat and three veg here the last coupla days. Yesterday just all feeling a bit Hawaiian, smooth late drops, deep connective turns on the big six, epic show-pony "down carves" with the whole drop knee shtick going, changing up the lines, letting the board manhandle the wave, then riding into sand death pits and peaks on the inside, running around for the paddle back, and cheering on a couple of the young crew who came out a bit tentative then got stuck in when they realised they could. You gotta treat big surf like it's little surf.

Then today more feeling the ball bearings of the ten channel on the soft clean faces, turning up into the pocket and standing back in the top turn, slithering though short arc cutties close to the white water, and weighting the centre concave/channel meeting point in half-barrel runs across the now more exposed sandbar. I wouldn't wanna ride that board every day but some days, ooo.

[Drailed]

You gotta treat big surf like it's little surf.

I am fccckn beating me chest here brother. We share the same philosophies.

[Hatchnam]

Well I didn’t get out yesterday, was child minding. And today it was a quick dash to cronulla point, all I had time for. And as I’ve said before, it’s a fairly boring wave aside from the first section.
So I tend to take the meat and three veg approach on it. Today
For me was a real Kia Carnival and Dad jeans from Lowes type of session

[Nick Carroll]

You gotta treat big surf like it's little surf.

I am fccckn beating me chest here brother. We share the same philosophies.

Isn't this marvellous! Primeval masculinity just doesn't get the respect it deserves these days

[JET01]

No meat and three veg here the last coupla days. Yesterday just all feeling a bit Hawaiian, smooth late drops, deep connective turns on the big six, epic show-pony "down carves" with the whole drop knee shtick going, changing up the lines, letting the board manhandle the wave, then riding into sand death pits and peaks on the inside, running around for the paddle back, and cheering on a couple of the young crew who came out a bit tentative then got stuck in when they realised they could. You gotta treat big surf like it's little surf.

Then today more feeling the ball bearings of the ten channel on the soft clean faces, turning up into the pocket and standing back in the top turn, slithering though short arc cutties close to the white water, and weighting the centre concave/channel meeting point in half-barrel runs across the now more exposed sandbar. I wouldn't wanna ride that board every day but some days, ooo.

Nick, in all sincerity, I love having you around. I’m not much into poetry, but I really enjoy the way you describe your surfing.
I noticed I’ve been part of these forums for over ten years the other day and I’d have to say it’s the more eloquent men like yourself that keep me coming back.

Thank you.

[Nick Carroll]

Thanks Jet! I really pay attention when I'm in the water.

[Drailed]

Thanks Jet, you were probably including me in that post too.

[Kunji]

Nice to see you’re still giving the singles a run.

Cronulla point today. Some nearly double overhead sets, and fairly solid. Surfed my big ol’ mid-70’s 6”11 pintail single.

Approached each wave the same.

A speed run straight to the shoulder as wide as I possibly could. Then eased into a cutback, driving deep back into the bowl at first reef reform. Then just stood there trimming along like an ape on Valium til the wave completely died out.

Nothing fancy but got the job done. Meat and three veg style.

What time were you there man? I was at the island but came through the point for one on the way in about 9am.

[crabmeat thompson]

loofy is in premium form here this afternoon, ladies and gentlemen

[JET01]

You gotta treat big surf like it's little surf.

I am fccckn beating me chest here brother. We share the same philosophies.

Nah, you’re one of the swines that keep me amused...which keeps me coming back for a different reason.

[Hatchnam]

Nice to see you’re still giving the singles a run.

Cronulla point today. Some nearly double overhead sets, and fairly solid. Surfed my big ol’ mid-70’s 6”11 pintail single.

Approached each wave the same.

A speed run straight to the shoulder as wide as I possibly could. Then eased into a cutback, driving deep back into the bowl at first reef reform. Then just stood there trimming along like an ape on Valium til the wave completely died out.

Nothing fancy but got the job done. Meat and three veg style.

What time were you there man? I was at the island but came through the point for one on the way in about 9am.

There at around 11-1pm. I very nearly paddled out at Wanda/greenhills. It looked solid and bigger than double overhead. Some real bombs. But wind was into it, lots of shutdown sections, and water moving around and no channel

[JET01]

Sounds like too much hard work for little reward.

I need to surf the beachies more.
I realised how unfit (how lazy i’ve become) i was the other day when i tried getting out at north Narrabeen. Spending too much time at the point really has a negative impact on fitness and duck diving skills...

Been out on the PCC single much lately Iggs?

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[Hatchnam]

Sounds like too much hard work for little reward.

I need to surf the beachies more.
I realised how unfit (how lazy i’ve become) i was the other day when i tried getting out at north Narrabeen. Spending too much time at the point really has a negative impact on fitness and duck diving skills...

Been out on the PCC single much lately Iggs?

Yeah I surf that board quite a lot. Anything from clean chest high beachbreak peelers up to solid six foot reefs/point. Haven’t had it out at voodoo yet, but had plenty sessions at sandon, boneyards, windang, and era point.

[The Mighty Sunbird]

Nice to see you’re still giving the singles a run.

Cronulla point today. Some nearly double overhead sets, and fairly solid. Surfed my big ol’ mid-70’s 6”11 pintail single.

Approached each wave the same.

A speed run straight to the shoulder as wide as I possibly could. Then eased into a cutback, driving deep back into the bowl at first reef reform. Then just stood there trimming along like an ape on Valium til the wave completely died out.

Nothing fancy but got the job done. Meat and three veg style.

What time were you there man? I was at the island but came through the point for one on the way in about 9am.

There at around 11-1pm. I very nearly paddled out at Wanda/greenhills. It looked solid and bigger than double overhead. Some real bombs. But wind was into it, lots of shutdown sections, and water moving around and no channel

Too scared then?
You need loofy to give ya some small wave training