Where did you surf today ?

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buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Thu Jan 18, 2018 8:25 pm

WTF is it with that drone rescue in Lennox?
I saw the footage and they were already in the impact zone. How hard is it to just let the waves wash you in?

Took the twinny out at Lennox point. Probably not the best choice as it was 3-5ft+ with plenty of push but I really wanted to try it. First surf on a twinny I think.
Couldn't get a wave for the first half hour and my plan to get the reforms from a qtr down the point had turned to shit. Ended up slowly paddling up to the deepest part of the point and found myself in position for a solid 5ft set. Had to go. The board held well on take off and I stayed low, bottom turn was good but then I had so much speed and no idea how to wash it off. Can't remember what I did after that but it was something kooky and I skidded out.

Slowly started to work some things out but I was really wanting a thruster, or a single because the waves were good. I don't want to see footage of that surf, it will be ugly :) .

Over55yrs
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Over55yrs » Thu Jan 18, 2018 8:49 pm

drone surf (evidently a world first..............whatever that means).

http://www.smh.com.au/nsw/world-first-a ... 0kg9m.html

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:04 pm

Yeh twins in power surf. Unless you're MR, thoughts?
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buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:11 pm

Thud wrote:
Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:04 pm
Yeh twins in power surf. Unless you're MR, thoughts?
Yeh, I checked the surf on high this morn and it had dropped heaps. Thought it would drop some more but it muscled up again. Didn't pack anything else because I was frothing to get it out there. Thought the huge fins would save me.
Live and learn.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:13 pm

Wasn't questioning you there buddy. More wondering thoughts on twins in waves with some sting. Sounds like ya didn't love it.

Had some ok surfs on a low railed 7ft 2+1 this week. Some waves have been belters, others the board doesn't love so much.
Last edited by Thud on Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:18 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:14 pm

saw Joel Fitz paddle out on an OS twinny the day before when it was 8 ft.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:14 pm

And? Well....we are waiting...

Those guys rip hard
Last edited by Thud on Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:18 pm

then I left. But I'm sure he tore the bag.
Lot of good surfing going on here this last swell.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:19 pm

For sure. I would have liked to have seen that.
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buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:21 pm

Yeh, and AK was talking about the guy on the 7'4 Mackie on the big days.
Will give it time to work it out.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:28 pm

Yeh I saw that. Described his turns like full snowboard carve on a mountain of water. Board looked funky however, Kidman loves MM. Still, good to see good surfing on good waves with something a little different.

MM is really on the side cut fish trip now....it's an interesting obsession. Kinda like that Ball guy in the 70's (Rodney?)

Anyway I digress.
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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Thu Jan 18, 2018 11:03 pm

Looks like no one surfed here today.

Image
#sixfeetissixfeet!

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Jorgo » Thu Jan 18, 2018 11:26 pm

Rodney Ball..he of the "Clear Sea" label ..used to shape for McGrigors when Ian Goodacre and Barry King were there too. He (Rodney) was a ski instructor I think and had some pretty unique designs with keels and interesting parallel tail shapes that mirrored snow skis to some extent.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Fri Jan 19, 2018 8:45 am

Pretty sure Mackies side cuts are based on an old school snowboard design. Not Rodney Balls but similar. I can't remember the guys name.
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channels
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Fri Jan 19, 2018 8:54 pm

Ride report on this thing
channels wrote:
Wed Jan 10, 2018 9:22 pm
This board

Image
So went for the late at semi offshore/sideshore/lago at Curlie. Normal Curlie, bit all over the place but some nice sections interspersed with fat gutters.

So how does the board ride? Speed, speed and more speed. I now understand the trend and fascination behind the shorter small wave board. Gets in early, gets up to speed so quickly and skates across the fat sections. The flat rocker and channels make it track a little so there were a few falls trying to turn how I normally would. Made a few nice sections where turns were more shoves and jams rather than leaning back and turning off the rail/rocker.

Board is a keeper.

buddy
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Fri Jan 19, 2018 9:00 pm

Nice!
I've got one of his 5 sparks. Also very fast.great board.
Would like to get the next one with tail or belly channels and thruster only.

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Thud
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Thud » Fri Jan 19, 2018 9:42 pm

Sounds fun Channels
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Beerfan
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beerfan » Sat Jan 20, 2018 7:45 am

Took the eldest for a surf this morning. Don't want to think about how long ago my last surf was. She had fun catching whitewater and I grabbed a few shoulder high waves on my JD. Tried some AM2 fins in it and it feels much more free and easy than the pc-7's I had in it, which seemed to make it feel stiff. Great board
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