Where did you surf today ?

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Mon Jan 01, 2018 7:12 am

It was a funny old year fer surf , very schizophrenic. Summer was a 1/10. Autumn was literally a 10/10, so much surf it was embarrassing.

Winter was a bit more sedate until the second half. From end of July into Sep there were 5 swells in the 6-10 foot range. Then Spring was fun as shite and summer has turned to caca again.

The highlight was a session during winter. Driving past the Point it looked dead flat with a devil wind on it. But there were two obscure long range swells in the water. A super long period S from the ice shelf west of Tasmania that missed the entire east coast and just refracted enough to brush the coast here on it's way to Fiji and a long range E generated near Tahiti.

I was walking around the Point trying to find the words to finish a deadline, the tide was super low. As I rounded the eastern tip, past the jump-off I was assailed by a surreal vision. A set of waves were hitting a sandbar and breaking with symmetrical perfection. One after the other, 4 in a row. No one out. A kiwi guy and his girlfriend were standing under a pandanus with surfboards staring at it. They were spooked.
I ran back to the Camry, sprinted, and extremely surreptitously, in between cars so no-one could see me, stashed the board and wetty in the bush.
Then ran back.
It was me and him, trading off for the next however long. Hidden from plain view under the basalt columns, in winter sunshine. The water was crystal clear and the spawning aggregations of bream and blackfish perfumed the water with fishy secretions.
He couldn't believe it. Literally frothing off his head.

My little channel bottom was going everywhere, lot of waves you just had to race full speed top to bottom tubes.
Anyhow, Happy New Year.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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BA
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by BA » Mon Jan 01, 2018 8:37 am

Waist-high glassy fun shorey super early. Then tide swallowed it. Water is tropical.

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black duck
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by black duck » Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:12 am

Water temp has dropped at least 2 deg over night down here, with a SSW wind and heavy cloud not helping the apparent temp.
Surface is all chopped up and there's almost no swell.
smnmntll wrote:When I get old, I'm going to take up fishing in a big fcuking way

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Mon Jan 01, 2018 11:07 am

Some 2017 highlights were

Triple overhead plus south boomerang on the 6’10 single
Head high to double overhead Kiama reef and south maroubra reef on the 6’4 single
Wallabi point at double overhead on the 6’3 Eighties thruster
Ballina rock/sand righthander freight training at head and half high on the 6’2 twin

Just about to go for a paddle out at tuncurry breakwall
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channels
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Mon Jan 01, 2018 11:40 am

Playing with the kids down at Freshie, inconsistent chest high south swell around.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Yuke Hunt » Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:00 pm

I didn't surf nearly as much as normal last year, especially on the home front which had a very ordinary wave count indeed. The saving grace being a couple of surf trips that delivered nice waves and great company. This year has started well though. With a distinct "lake" of waves on the Goldie, I headed south and hooked up with a couple of mates. Surfed a 9'2" traditional log on the hight tide, caught a couple and then swapped out for a swallowtail quad kneeboard as the tide drained. As Crabmeat would so rightly say; it was the best of times and the worst of times.
The moving finger writes and having writ moves on ... now all thy piety nor wit shall lure it back to cancel even half a line ... nor all thy tears wash out a single word of it.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Mon Jan 01, 2018 2:34 pm

Highlight surf wise last year was Fiji. Low point was probably snapping the rental there too.
Got plenty of waves at Crescent last week but Boxing Day Arvo was the best. I got one that opened up properly and allowed a speed nose ride from the take off to the clubhouse rather than your regular tacking type of nose riding.

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petulance
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by petulance » Mon Jan 01, 2018 2:39 pm

Surf-wise, 2017 was a regression compared to 2016. My wave count dropped heaps. It was fitting that my last wave of 2017 was such a screw up as it pretty much summed up the year for me.
smnmntll wrote: She's also moderately hot, with a bit of that petulance-approved titless starved whippet look about her but still pretty decent.

channels
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by channels » Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:04 pm

South Curlie, occasionly head high one outside. One or maybe two turns into the deep mid gutter. If you dont value your board, foam roll in to speed run on the inside shorey double up.

Given everywhere else is crap, a bit of fun to start the year.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:43 pm

Good storm just went through Ballina. Hate to be at Falls tonight.
Saw a bunch of blokes at South Wall waiting to paddle back across before the storm hit but there were dolphins doing weird shit in the middle of the river and they looked like they weren't keen.
Looks like they had to wait the storm out.

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saltman
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by saltman » Mon Jan 01, 2018 9:37 pm

2ft peaks on high tide With light onshores
No one out
steve shearer wrote:
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Loof is just projecting again, he's been eating his own semen since the age of 10.

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petulance
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by petulance » Tue Jan 02, 2018 10:38 am

Had a better than expected session on the late at my local yesterday. I paddled out and the line up only had Japanese surfers.
smnmntll wrote: She's also moderately hot, with a bit of that petulance-approved titless starved whippet look about her but still pretty decent.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Tue Jan 02, 2018 1:23 pm

Flat as a shit carter's hat this morning.

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:03 am

super fun beachie peaks this morning. ran over a kook who refused to duckdive (while paddling for his life to the shoulder, ffs) and dinged me board.

that took the gloss off everything.
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Beanpole
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Beanpole » Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:07 am

I hate that. Take it on the head you sook.

Yuke Hunt
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Yuke Hunt » Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:21 am

crabmeat thompson wrote:
Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:03 am
super fun beachie peaks this morning. ran over a kook who refused to duckdive (while paddling for his life to the shoulder, ffs) and dinged me board.

that took the gloss off everything.
Perfect little wedges breaking right on the tide line ... great fun !
The moving finger writes and having writ moves on ... now all thy piety nor wit shall lure it back to cancel even half a line ... nor all thy tears wash out a single word of it.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by buddy » Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:33 am

Beanpole wrote:
Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:07 am
I hate that. Take it on the head you sook.
I hope you don't speak to Mrs Beanpole like that.

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petulance
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by petulance » Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:12 pm

Beanpole wrote:
Wed Jan 03, 2018 10:07 am
I hate that. Take it on the head you sook.
I'm an expert at paddling over the shoulder in time to avoid having to do a duck dive. I think I did more duck dives on my first day back at my local than I did in one week at a reef break in Indo.
smnmntll wrote: She's also moderately hot, with a bit of that petulance-approved titless starved whippet look about her but still pretty decent.

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