Where did you surf today ?

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sun Sep 10, 2017 12:26 pm

I was out there with my oldest friend, a couple of Bribie Boys.....we got this 10 ft set on the head and he creased his Brewer.

Then I got this big wedge, that had a crease in it which gave me a chip shot into an 8ft double up. Rode it to the Bream hole and it walled up the whole fcuking way.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sun Sep 10, 2017 12:49 pm

Desert storm day ?

Watched some fella get pancaked pretty hard into the trough at sandon, taking off at the deepest point. He was on some big rhino chaser. Tried paddling in, but got held up in the gurgle for a second or two, then pitched straight down the chute. It looked ugly.

The inside run was looking ok, had its moments, but still not ideal.

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The Mighty Sunbird wrote:I think I had kebab and DOOGH every day. Fresh DOOGH is heavenly
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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sun Sep 10, 2017 1:24 pm

looks wonky, it was butter texture here.

Went from stiff offshore, to light offshore to dead sheet glass.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

JET01
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by JET01 » Sun Sep 10, 2017 1:27 pm

Had a few nice ones friday arvo at the point.
Today was too big, wobbly, and crowded for me so I took my kids to the spring fair.

Be careful out there today there's a bit of size around
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sun Sep 10, 2017 1:44 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Sun Sep 10, 2017 1:24 pm
looks wonky, it was butter texture here.

Went from stiff offshore, to light offshore to dead sheet glass.
Yeah it was wonk city. Even where I was , was a bit wonky
. Glassy almost but had creases and wonks to it. I think you scored the best on the east coast today .
The Mighty Sunbird wrote:I think I had kebab and DOOGH every day. Fresh DOOGH is heavenly
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Sun Sep 10, 2017 5:59 pm

looks ideal!

alakaboo
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:49 am

I checked the surf from an Incan temple today, it was solid, maybe 8ft closeout beachbreaks and bigger offshore.
There was a surfable looking reform inside one of the islands. fuschia knows how you would've got out there without a ski, and it is 12 degrees and full of petrochemical runoff.

I never did get a surf on Rapa Nui. It came up from flat to 6-8ft and solid the afternoon before we left, just before we took the kids snorkeling at some deepwater pinnacles.
The next morning I ran around like a headless chicken trying to find a rental board and the best I could rustle up was a 6'4" Bushman thruster that was missing a fin so I gave it a miss.
Even tried to buy a guy's board and he wouldn't let it go.

Mataveri is a lot heavier than it looks in the vids. At 8ft it breaks about 2 board lengths from a cliff.

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Mon Sep 11, 2017 4:13 pm

Well, Sandon was blardy luvly this morning! Even got a barrel. Rare for me.

Not too crowded either, everyone came down on Sunday I guess.
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by batoes » Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:42 pm

Farm had a few this arvo. Long ones out the back that reformed into a few little tube sections on the shore. 2+1 NPJ was good fun as always.
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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Tue Sep 12, 2017 2:51 pm

North Curly. Tide too high.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Sep 12, 2017 6:16 pm

Damn there are some good banks about Iggy. Last two days have been great fun.
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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Tue Sep 12, 2017 8:52 pm

Haven't been out since Sunday but will go tomorrow. Hope the swell has shifted some sand back into the far north end. It's been fat straight and deep in there for a while.
The Mighty Sunbird wrote:I think I had kebab and DOOGH every day. Fresh DOOGH is heavenly
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Wed Sep 13, 2017 3:05 pm

I'd just spent nearly 30 minutes getting out, so paddled another 40m to have a rest before joining the pack. A much bigger set comes rolling in and I'm in the perfect position, everyone way to far inside, a few easy strokes and I'm into a solid double overhead wave.

The bigger waves are the best. I'm racing it, 100m, 200m, 250m, looking good for Bingin Beach, but there's a paddler in the worst position, I have to pull up high when I need to be driving low, he duck dives directly underneath me, but I've lost my speed, another 50m and I kick my board out, land flat and my shoulder hits the reef solidly in about a foot of water, wave then collapses on me. Wave of the fcuking day.
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saltman
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by saltman » Wed Sep 13, 2017 4:41 pm

Ahhh the pleasure and the pain
crabmeat thompson wrote:
Sat Aug 26, 2017 5:40 pm
we need more doctors advocating anal sex!

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:29 pm

Clean 2 foot peaks. Aframe take offs into great little bowl running all the way to the beach. Surfed the new 6'4 single.
Managed to get two barrels on the one wave on the shallow inside bowl section as it drains out in front of the rocks. Probably the first time I can remember that happening at maroubra.

Got this pic just after I came in, as the sun was setting.

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The Mighty Sunbird wrote:I think I had kebab and DOOGH every day. Fresh DOOGH is heavenly
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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crabmeat thompson
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by crabmeat thompson » Thu Sep 14, 2017 7:07 am

it's nothing but Arrant Piffle up here.
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saltman
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by saltman » Thu Sep 14, 2017 9:31 am

Yep i am home again
crabmeat thompson wrote:
Sat Aug 26, 2017 5:40 pm
we need more doctors advocating anal sex!

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Cranked
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Cranked » Thu Sep 14, 2017 9:49 am

I practiced all the different ways to get in and out of a closeout
“I don’t necessarily agree with everything I say ”— Marshall McLuhan

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