Where did you surf today ?

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Trev
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Trev » Sat Sep 09, 2017 7:36 pm

Small fun peelers this morning at my local.
Slight pick up in size this evening. Hope it holds till tomorrow.
#sixfeetissixfeet!

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Sat Sep 09, 2017 7:52 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Sat Sep 09, 2017 6:42 pm
is that all?

Thought it might be bigger.
It was 6' plus, like plus plus, on a lot of open beaches down here today. But mostly just the lead bit of swell. Tomorrow should be more long interval muscly etc

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sat Sep 09, 2017 8:43 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Sat Sep 09, 2017 6:42 pm
is that all?

Thought it might be bigger.
Early on cronulla point had double overhead sets.
See this https://www.facebook.com/23519816318029 ... 720465196/
But I didn't get to it til 3pm onwards. Conditions had deteriorated by then. Strong cross-shore wind and directional south swell was making it break way too wide and messy. Not really hugging the reef and running, mostly smashing down in one go. I dunno it might've been bigger than 3-5 foot when I was out there. Didn't seem too big, just super thick and sketchy/washy. Up the beach greenhills had tonnes of swell but blustery as hell

Got this one solid bomb set that looked like the second section was going to throw over so I could backdoor it. Whole thing pinched out and shut down the length of the reef. The lip hit the trough so hard in front of me that I got bounced about three foot in the air. One other dude reckons he hit the reef a couple of times. It only seemed to be about waist deep at most over the reef this arvo
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

Nick Carroll
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Nick Carroll » Sun Sep 10, 2017 9:51 am

Yeah a bit more solid this morning, maybe 4-8', clean surface but it's still suffering a bit from yesterday's wind

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sun Sep 10, 2017 11:35 am

I wouldn't have really cared whether it was 2 ft or 6ft today.

As it turned out it was sheet glass long period 6-8ft............pretty fcuking insane.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sun Sep 10, 2017 11:58 am

Reef i wanted to surf wasn't quite working. Checked the next option nearby.' Slabbing ridiculously, exploding over almost exposed reef that's riddled with sea urchins, and had about a dozen boogers on it sitting shoulder to shoulder, so nah.

Ended up on a protected outer bar. Peeling righthander running for about 100 metres. Around 4-5 foot, two others out there. Long bitch of a paddle out. Fairly gentle wave overall,'but picked up more steam and pocket as it went along. A speed run to cutback wave more or less.

Stopped in and had a look at sandon point on the way back. Some pretty solid double overhead sets, but overall wide and washy conditions.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sun Sep 10, 2017 12:26 pm

I was out there with my oldest friend, a couple of Bribie Boys.....we got this 10 ft set on the head and he creased his Brewer.

Then I got this big wedge, that had a crease in it which gave me a chip shot into an 8ft double up. Rode it to the Bream hole and it walled up the whole fcuking way.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sun Sep 10, 2017 12:49 pm

Desert storm day ?

Watched some fella get pancaked pretty hard into the trough at sandon, taking off at the deepest point. He was on some big rhino chaser. Tried paddling in, but got held up in the gurgle for a second or two, then pitched straight down the chute. It looked ugly.

The inside run was looking ok, had its moments, but still not ideal.

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steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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steve shearer
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by steve shearer » Sun Sep 10, 2017 1:24 pm

looks wonky, it was butter texture here.

Went from stiff offshore, to light offshore to dead sheet glass.
I want Nightclub Dwight dead in his grave I want the nice-nice up in blazes

JET01
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by JET01 » Sun Sep 10, 2017 1:27 pm

Had a few nice ones friday arvo at the point.
Today was too big, wobbly, and crowded for me so I took my kids to the spring fair.

Be careful out there today there's a bit of size around
Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.

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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Sun Sep 10, 2017 1:44 pm

steve shearer wrote:
Sun Sep 10, 2017 1:24 pm
looks wonky, it was butter texture here.

Went from stiff offshore, to light offshore to dead sheet glass.
Yeah it was wonk city. Even where I was , was a bit wonky
. Glassy almost but had creases and wonks to it. I think you scored the best on the east coast today .
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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Lucky Al
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Lucky Al » Sun Sep 10, 2017 5:59 pm

looks ideal!

alakaboo
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by alakaboo » Mon Sep 11, 2017 8:49 am

I checked the surf from an Incan temple today, it was solid, maybe 8ft closeout beachbreaks and bigger offshore.
There was a surfable looking reform inside one of the islands. fuschia knows how you would've got out there without a ski, and it is 12 degrees and full of petrochemical runoff.

I never did get a surf on Rapa Nui. It came up from flat to 6-8ft and solid the afternoon before we left, just before we took the kids snorkeling at some deepwater pinnacles.
The next morning I ran around like a headless chicken trying to find a rental board and the best I could rustle up was a 6'4" Bushman thruster that was missing a fin so I gave it a miss.
Even tried to buy a guy's board and he wouldn't let it go.

Mataveri is a lot heavier than it looks in the vids. At 8ft it breaks about 2 board lengths from a cliff.

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Wyre
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Wyre » Mon Sep 11, 2017 4:13 pm

Well, Sandon was blardy luvly this morning! Even got a barrel. Rare for me.

Not too crowded either, everyone came down on Sunday I guess.
godsavethequeen wrote:I wonder if reg is still thrashing the neighbour's elderly poodle with his wattle branch.

batoes
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by batoes » Mon Sep 11, 2017 7:42 pm

Farm had a few this arvo. Long ones out the back that reformed into a few little tube sections on the shore. 2+1 NPJ was good fun as always.
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Davros
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Davros » Tue Sep 12, 2017 2:51 pm

North Curly. Tide too high.

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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Drailed » Tue Sep 12, 2017 6:16 pm

Damn there are some good banks about Iggy. Last two days have been great fun.
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Hatchnam
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Re: Where did you surf today ?

Post by Hatchnam » Tue Sep 12, 2017 8:52 pm

Haven't been out since Sunday but will go tomorrow. Hope the swell has shifted some sand back into the far north end. It's been fat straight and deep in there for a while.
steve shearer wrote:full dionysian hand jive body torque

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