steve shearer wrote: ↑
Fri Aug 25, 2017 8:57 am
Joy division, wellness industry, it's all a confusing fit.
well it's a bit millennial free-form, you know, something borrowed, something blue
I think surf culture has elements of both individuality and communality and that in many ways the communal, or the strengths and benefits of the communal, is not recognised as clearly as the individual.
Think of John Sevo's famed quote about this crowded world and surfing letting a man be alone with his thoughts. People love that very romantic idea of surfing (though it has a shade or two of lurking horror, who really wants to be a man alone with his thoughts very often). But the nut and bolt of surf culture arises in greater measure from the communal, the group of locals who surf together for years, the memories you gain from surf trips with mates, the interactions between shapers and clients, the shared stories, surfboards sold from hand to hand, the empirical development of surf knowledge over many years, and the simple straight up learning that goes on between surfers watching each other ride waves.
Big surf contests, when they were really open affairs, were expressions of that -- sounds like they often still are for kids and even QS surfers. In any case I think gatherings can be really good for any surfer, they open up doors that otherwise might remain closed for a long time, and it is different being in each other's presence -- it's not the same as a forum, even one as entertaining as this.
Maybe the SW one looks a bit off-putting to some, not a good cultural fit or whatever, but I can tell you it does not arise from a cheesy place in Blakey and Co's hearts, they really want to do social shit and bring people together.