Where did you surf today ?

[The Mighty Sunbird]

Fcuck this cheap website shits me

[Davros]

So is that two waves or one?

[foamy]

One of the most unexpectedly happy discoveries of my surfing life as `i became a husband and a work-a-daddy was just how little time I needed to spend actually surfing to get stoked and maintain life as a hardcore surfer while pursuing other interests and being there for my wife and kids.

As long as I keep it regular and keep everything dialed in then sometimes I only need a couple of waves.

Correct. I had bus trips followed by a one wave surf followed by bus trips when I lived in Darlo with two babies and a depressed wife.
Some of the best one waves of my life

Of course, AJ is in his 50s, has young kids, is an half an hour or so from the beach (subject to getting a park) and his wife works the night shift. I reckon a short stroll to a local coffee emporium might be a pretty sound and convenient sanity option.

[Rustt]

Surfed the local point was about 5 foot was feeling a bit lazy and it was a bit windy so I took my 8'8" out ,seriously over gunned. Was good fun got a few good barrels and then took one big one that I got clipped on and just as I was having the realization that rolling around with a board that size was dangerous I felt my elbow and hand get smashed.
Consider myself very lucky as fin cut through my wettie and just grazed my arm but then smashed my hand and pressed the futures fin 1/2 an inch into my board, hurt a bit. As usual wife considered it a self inflicted wound.

_20170823_113631.JPG (46.2 KiB) Viewed 4626 times

[Davros]

Ouch!

Big boards = bigger injuries.

[Beerfan]

Yikes! Broken ??

Dead flat and freezing this morning. But the early light is early enough that from here on in, I'll have a board in the car pre work.


Worst thing about infrequent surfing is you never get good waves, never. When your opportunity comes it's flat,huge or blowing a flkuking gale. When you go frequently you still get those conditions but for every 2-3 average surfs you'll get a good one that keeps the fires burning. Just all part of it.

[crabmeat thompson]

old rust is doing his level best to get aj back into the water.

[steve shearer]

I think an inner west intervention is in order.

[steve shearer]

if all the sydney members of RS get together like the amish and help out with AJ's home renos then he'll be able to go surfing and his wife will be happy.
is this not correct?

[marauding mullet]

Jesus Rust, is that as bad as it looks?
And it looks like a loggerhead turtle that's been attacked by a tiger shark

[PeepeelaPew]

...

[swvic]

I'm closer

[ajohnsen]

I reckon the Amish are onto something, except for the God bit.

[ajohnsen]

Stay away from The Farm Friday September 29th to Monday October 2nd!!

https://surfingworld.com.au/score-sw-ca ... c41a67985d

[Beanpole]

Surfed the local point was about 5 foot was feeling a bit lazy and it was a bit windy so I took my 8'8" out ,seriously over gunned. Was good fun got a few good barrels and then took one big one that I got clipped on and just as I was having the realization that rolling around with a board that size was dangerous I felt my elbow and hand get smashed.
Consider myself very lucky as fin cut through my wettie and just grazed my arm but then smashed my hand and pressed the futures fin 1/2 an inch into my board, hurt a bit. As usual wife considered it a self inflicted wound. _20170823_113631.JPG

That's one swollen mitt there rusty.

[Hatchnam]

Stay away from The Farm Friday September 29th to Monday October 2nd!!

https://surfingworld.com.au/score-sw-ca ... c41a67985d

The farm is best avoided at all times. Big fat boring roller. Only ever comes to life when it's double overhead - i.e; when you're better off elsewhere anyway

[Nick Carroll]

Stay away from The Farm Friday September 29th to Monday October 2nd!!

https://surfingworld.com.au/score-sw-ca ... c41a67985d

Yeah, god forbid any of you learn something, try some new boards etc

[godsavetheking]

They've signed you up for a 'Legends' spot, eh Nick? Or perhaps you'll just be woofing down tasty treats, or wriggling around on a yoga mat, or trading tubes with your surf heroes, or quivering out with the best boards you’ve ever laid eyes on, or poppin’ off to the best psych bands under the sun, or even just rolling around in the grass like a big ol’ wombat